Outer Limits 4x4 Board

thanks mate - i'll likely swap the front and rears i've got at the moment, as my current front springs are stock hilux and the rear is APM brand =)

could be a go-er, as i run my leaves flat, so an extra 10-15mm would add to the softness i'd think.

thanks mate - were the EFS longer than factory do you know?

i think the biggest issue is the immobiliser - most that have done it have cable tied the key etc from the donor car to the computer so its constantly un-immobilised. Suzistore here in Perth were trying to sort it out "properly" but i dont think they ever found the time to nut it out properly. IMO ...

fair enough - i've got some from a wreck in the front at the moment cos they were cheap, so i might try swapping the fronts and rears and see what happens.

I'm skeptical though...

does everyone else agree that stock leaves are softest?

Hey all Just looking for some advice on the softest riding lux front leaves... i run hilux fronts in my suzuki sierra (SPOA with hilux mounts) - i only run the 2 main leaves front and rear. Being that the rear of a suzuki weighs, well, next to nothing - i'm struggling to get any flex from the rear ...

at this point the KM2 look to have worn more on the same amount of travel time on the vehicle... i am very hard on my tyres though as i daily drive on them, and i drive it like i stole it... both sets have about 5000km on them and have worn maybe 1.5mm of tread on the KM2 and about 1mm on the KL71 ...

look into kumho KL71. cheaper and better IMO

i can now add to this thread - kumho KL71 are far better on the road both wet and dry and on rocks... in sloppy mud its hard to tell the difference. I've run the KM2 and KL71 one week after the other its honestly given the price difference i'd recommend the KL71 every single time... the KL71 are ...

they've been around for years... not sure how many they ever did but i can't imagine it was any good at all to drive... they do a chassis exension etc to get it in. this would be a fun conversion though: http://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562069.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; 75° odd ...

http://www.suzukiconversion.com/suzuki_v8.htm#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

is anyone able to rate these in mud? I'm running BFG KM2 at the moment and trying to decide on a second set of tyres for use in winter, not sure if i get another set of KM2, Bighorn 764, Kumho KL71 or these???

mine are super quiet - but my last tyres were simex ETs so im probably tone deaf now.

^^ thats correct - its the other way around that doesnt work (8v bottom end with 16v head).

yeah you need to run efi pistons to run an efi head (theyre different)...

if im not mistaken, don't the 1.3L engines run 10:1 compression standard?

dont forget most of the time when a sierra diff housing bends, it bends between the spring perch and the hub... mine are gussetted all the way along regardless, but both times i've bent a housing its been right on the end of the tube.

buy a scuba tank, biggest one you can afford - any paintball field or scuba store can fill it to 4500psi.... that should get you a fair few fills =)

^^ true - but crawling around in full sun on a 38 degree day is a bit much =) haha

in other news i tested my new toy (IR Gun) on my sunburnt knee... its 3-4 degrees warmer than my non-burnt skin, and measures 34*C =P

thanks mate - nope - its a new sender hence the discrepancy...

so what previously would have indicated overheating is now just showing a temperature difference of 10*C - normal temp being around 90*C, and what i thought was overheating was 100*C... so all is well =)

the WA suzuki club use AM cos no one uses it over here - so its easy not to find other people on your channel.

downside is no one has a handheld AM radio =)

hahah yeah i think i've already checked the temp of everything in the house, including our pet birds =P

i took the easy way out =P lol i just swapped the guage for an IR gun... can just carry the gun in my recovery kit... but i just took readings on the gun compared to my guage and im within spec. my "normal" temp is 90 degrees, my "hot" temp is 101 degrees. i also pointed it at the pipes if the pipes ...

well i got a gauge from auto-one - can't seem to get the autometer or VDO. anyway - got home and went to start fitting it when i had a sudden "bugger" moment - the only outlet on my thermostat housing is connected to a sensor! so the only way i'll be able to run the gauge is if i disconnect that ...

thanks mate - yeah i've been recommended autometer and VDO brands.

i know i can get VDO locally, but not sure if repco in WA sell autometer? hope they do, as theres one down the road.

haahh yeah when i first put it on i had it backwards (thats how it comes out of the box) - its flipped and definitely forcing air through the radiator. can anyone recommend a good water temp guage and where to purchase? prefer to buy from a store and i know supercheap are questionable, but how are ...

wow - thats a lot of gauges =) highway test just done - outside temp is 36.7 (at 5pm!) still heated up just the same - it doesnt go past a certain point, but definitely runs hotter than if doing 60km/hr. i also did a run at 90km/hr with the bonnet latch popped, so the front of the bonnet was up a ...

i do like the idea of an oil temp guage...

nope - havent had it on a dyno - i suppose i could, although i dont know how much (if any) adjustment a jimny computer has.

thanks mate - yeah it doesnt do "total overheat" it just gets hotter than i want it.. the guage usually reads around 1/3rd, when "hot" it goes to half way. spotties would be obstructing rad for sure, but the bottom tank on the radiator finishes at the bar below where the spotties mount, so ...

on MrRocky's advice i just took the grille off and blasted my radiator with the garden hose set to 'jet' - got a LOT of dust/mud out of the radiator.

could it be that simple? lol

i'll update later with how testing goes.

here's a recent pic: http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv75/2004KTM450sx/PC230237.jpg you can see the radiator through the barwork, the thermo fan is in front of the radiator, and the factory fan behind the radiator. all factory shrouds are in place. perhaps the air is going around the sides rather ...