Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yes, I have this type of intercooler on a GQ TD42 and it did make a difference. I had it dyno tuned afterwards and it's now running 14 PSI of boost with EGTs that don't get over 500C. I never had an Air to Air so I can't make a comparison, but I'm happy with mine. If you're getting the Denco kit ...

gazza 1 wrote:Gooday. yeh,
Temps have increased from say from 560 diesel only at 110 kls to 625 at the same speed. I got the Diesel/gas brand installed. Could not be happier.The additional power when in 4x4 is fantastic.
Thanks Gazza

Thanks for that, I'm leaning the Diesel Gas way myself. Cheers.

Gooday, i put my patrol,GU 4.2 2000 wagon on diesel/gas about 2 1/2 years ago. If you do a lot of kls go for it. If you want more power, want more torque, if you want better fuel economy, if you want a quieter motor, if you want to help the enviroment just do it. I did not lose my aux. tank. Gazza ...

You could use a socket that is a little bit smaller than the bush size to push them out (if you have a press).

The new ones will go in a bit easier if you put them in the freezer for half an hour beforehand.

Shocks need to be matched to the coils or the coils may drop out on full droop (unless you had some sort of retention system). Even with retainers, you may not get much out of it anyway because without the weight of the vehicle on the wheel that was drooping, you would have less traction on that ...

Personally, I think castrol Transmax Z is about the best. it's expensive but I think you can buy a 20L drum from a castrol outlet.

Just wondering if you may have had a problem with bonnet clearance anyway, I know mine was fairly tight when I put it in. What was the difference in height between the two lids?

Do you have a boost and EGT gauge? If so, what were the readings at the time? And did you still have good oil pressure at the time? I know that with my old GQ, when we were in the Pilbara, once the temp got up to a certain point, I would see the oil pressure start to drop on the aftermarket gauge ...

Another thing I should have mentioned before: If you ever have to reuse an old lock washer, the most important part to check is not actually the washer surface but the little tab that slots into the keyway on the stub axle shaft. If the tab has been worn down, the washer wont grip on the shaft and ...

yeh its a gq. do other people have this problem?? Yep, everyone does, esp if they reuse the lock washer and don't tighten the lock nuts properly. They need to be torqued up, not tightened and then backed off like you do with other types. It happens mostly on the left side. Best solution is to use ...

yeh its a gq. do other people have this problem?? Yep, everyone does, esp if they reuse the lock washer and don't tighten the lock nuts properly. They need to be torqued up, not tightened and then backed off like you do with other types. It happens mostly on the left side. Best solution is to use ...

marin wrote:I'll be running a catch can (as do most people). You shouldn't plumb it in where you are suggesting as the turbo will pressurise back down the breather pipe.

marin

Sounds fair, thanks. What's the benefit of a catch can?

For those guys that have fitted a ZD30 airbox to their GQ, what did you do with the crankcase vent hose? I notice in one of the pics it looks like it's just venting into the engine bay. I was thinking about plumbing it into the crossove pipe that runs from the turbo to the inlet manifold??

i fitted a ZD30 airbox into my GQ, with an ARB battery tray i had some dramas fitting it, in the end i had to move the ARB battery tray and overflow bottle 30-50mm rearwards, which also meant reshaping the inner guard as the overflow bottles are shapped to suit the inner guard, once i did all this ...

I don't think it's a lot of money, as I said it's probably pretty close to the mark, considering the Superior kit is $4,165. Add in all the hidden costs and you'll easily hit 5K. I doubt you'll get an egineer for under $700 and he'll want to see a wheel alignment and brake test, plus you'll be up ...

well i be f@#ked hows that for some small/ large print thats what i get for beliving word of mouth :oops: in that case i guess superior and snake are sholder to sholder in that issue as for it any one had any trouble with rta insurance after accedent ect? Speak to your engineer BEFORE you buy ...

idiots he is asking for recomendations on a good mud tyre brand in 35's not (what do i do to fit them ) i have BFG'S m/t's i find them great had silverstone's before just as good i thought i paid 800 for six if them with 95% tread lift on them from the outer's tyres for sale section i left my diff ...

Speak to your engineer first. Whatever gear you use, he'll probably want to see the test report on it, unless he's seen it before. $5000 will probably be closer to the mark once you factor in another grand for arms, and one more for engineers report, brake test, wheel alignment, etc.

Bleed the left rear, right rear, proportioning valve, left front and then right front.

Does the fully floating leaf diff have disc brakes?

Looks really good mate. Beats paying all that extra cash for the real thing, especially when it's probably a more useful size.

A properly engineered 6 x 6 will give you more traction than a 4 x 4 in certain conditions so in those conditions, yes it will go further if it's been built properly and can keep it's wheels on the ground. It really depends on what you want it for. I certainly wouldn't consider it if you need ...

bogged wrote:Call Rodney at Wholesale Automatics in Bayswater Vic. He sells and fits them to Patrols.

He'll either tell you to do what I did, or sell you the drilled and tapped bolt and sender unit.

You need to remove the banjo bolt from the outlet pipe on the RHS of the tranny and drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole thru the centre. You need to buy a short button style sender unit so that when you screw it in, the sensor doesnt obstruct the oil hole to the banjo union. I've got the VDO part numbers ...

The GQs used to come with one. It was a big plate that bolted between the chassis rails under the motor, and had scallops cut out in line with the radius arms so they could flex. I believe they stopped fitting them at the factory because they interfered with the airflow thru the engine bay, although ...

GUpatrol02 wrote:Has anyone heard how long until the government take the rebate away

I'm betting the prices will mysteriously drop after the rebate goes.

poppeye wrote:anyone else got some ideas do you reckon i will need double cardin

Is the noise caused by putting in the clutch, or is it that you only hear it because with the clutch in, it is a lot quieter, and therefore easier to hear?

No, it's 53. Get an old Radius Arm front bolt and grind the threaded end to a point. When refitting the arms, if you're having trouble lining up the front holes, knocking the modified bolt in can help. Then knock the new bolt in from the other side.

Have you checked the small vacuum line that controls the idle speed for the air-con, the one that runs from the alternator back along the firewall? If there's a leak in that, or if the line has come off the pump outlet, you'll run out of vacuum very quickly. Also check the one way valve between the ...

Mate, as a matter of urgency, jack up your front left wheel and see if the bearings are loose. You can do this by by grabbing the wheel at the top and the bottom and giving it a good shake to see if there is any play. The GQ is notorious for having the front left wheel come loose because the wheel ...