Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've found you can remove one of the hoses from the top of the thermostat housing and the water level will drop in the radiator allowing you to fill more in. Just keep filling till it flows out the hose you have removed and you should be right. But as the other bloke says, you won't get 15 L in ...

I used a Terrain Tamer kit from Don Kyatt, which came with all the bits and pieces you need, apart from shims. Price was pretty reasonable, but was quite a few years ago now. The only issue I had was that the wiper seals started to fall apart after a few years, so installed some genuine Nissan ones ...

Hey Guys, Just wanted to check something. Does a GQ 4.2 diesel run a spigot bearing in the end of the crank shaft for the gearbox input shaft? Thing is, my clutch is getting on a bit and can slip if pushed hard, but it also feels sometimes like it not disengaging properly, which is a bit weird, as ...

I'm certain I left mine on there when I did the conversion, but it's not actually a lock washer perse, it just engages with the shaft to stop it rotating from memory.

Hope that helps.

Nathan

A bit off the original topic, but on the topic of trays under the filters, I made a small aluminium tray that sits under mine. It's just made from a piece of 0.5mm thick sheet panel beaten into a tray to drain it back to the centre. I soldered a 10mm spigot onto it and have a piece of clear hose ...

There are some rubber bungs with drains in them on the inside of the rear quarter panels. Might be worth checking to see if they are blocked........... Stick your head under the car and you'll see them, about 20mm in diameter.

Can't say I have ever had such a problem.

Just had a look at mine. The tube from the vac pump runs up to the solenoid described (back of engine bay near master cylinder). There is another hose running from the other side of the solenoid down to the fuel pump. It wouldn't suprise me if it was for the air conditioning. When the compressor ...

G'Day Mr Duff, I have a copy at home, but is has been faxed to me from Safari, so I can probably fax it or scan it in and send it to you. What is your fax number or email address? They are a pretty tight fit. I had to remove the condenser fan and the grille support under the latch. You might also ...

Just a tip. Make sure you check the condition of the surface that the outer seal runs on before reassembly, as if there is a groove worn in it you may still get a leak. A speedi sleeve should take care of it if that is the case, or just install the seal in a slightly different spot. You might have ...

I did have a problem with mine a while back where the tail lights and dash lights fuse would blow just out of the blue. I did a lot of checking and found in the end it was the number plate light bulb. The glass has come loose from the base and must have created a short from time to time. It took ...

From memory reading your previous post you were having difficulty with the bearings coming loose......... I presume what you're talking about is changing the wheel bearing nuts..... I have replaced my standard lock nuts on the front axle with the auto locking hub nuts. The nut is circular and has ...

I used a 4" grinder to remove them. The pricks just would not budge and from memory the flat bit on the end sheared off.

Yeah the top bleed point is up near the fuel filter, back left corner (well on my diesel anyway). There is a tee piece lower down that comes up to a block with a bleed nipple on the top of it. There may be a rubber dust cover on the nipple. I have just been through a similar problem. Firstly I ...

From the bit of looking around I did on this subject. A blocked filter or restriction on the air inlet side can also cause compressor side oil leaks, as the negative pressure (or vacuum) created by the impeller can draw the oil past the seals. I had a bit of a weep on my discharge hose and cleaned ...

Most kits take oil from the feed to the vacuum pump pump on the back of the alternator. You can install a t-piece there and get a hose made to suit. If the car is a later model with the vacuum pump over near the fuel pump, there is a plug in the block where the oil is normally sourced for the vacuum ...

Presuming the car has a turbo fitted, do you have a boost compensator fitted? Mine too feels a little bit of a lag above 3000 RPM, but makes max power at 3500 RPM on the dyno. What I'm thinking/wondering is, to make a best compromise setup the diesel place will tune the fuel for normal driving revs ...

When i fitted my turbo (Safari) i used a tee that i sourced from Pirtek. They seemed to have a good range of fittings there. Cost was about $30. Just take all your fittings along, so they can know what you need. The fitting into the block is something weird. From memory, i have an adaptor that ...

I painted my rear bar in POR15, and then with their chassis black over the top as the POR15 is not UV stabilised. Generally it has lasted pretty well, but does end up a pretty matt finish. There is a few little chips now from hitting rocks, but walking on it doesn't scratch it off like spray cans ...

Don't forget there is two seals on the rear axles!! An inner and outer seal. The inner one is a piece of piss to replace, but the outer one will require you to remove the bearing. Removing the bearings will usually require a pretty heavy duty press, in the order of 30 tonne. What can happen on the ...

One thing you will find running 35's is that you use first to take off all the time and find that you will often have to go back to second around most left hand corners if you aren't prepared to change your axle ratios. I used to find with 31/32's that you could pull through in third most of the ...

I have some pics from a GU TD42 and a dimensioned drawing lying around somewhere. I'll try and find it and can probably email it if you like. From my understanding, you can use a very similar bracket on a GQ, but you have to modify the mounts under the a/c compressor as they mount up slightly ...

I bought a complete new radiator from a Natrad dealer at the end of last year, which cost me $484 incl GST. The part number was NIS973CMD. This is for a manual TD42 (GQ). From memory the petrol one is about the same cost. So far it seems to be working pretty well. The only thing i wasn't really ...

35's did slow my car down somewhat from the 32's that were on there and it put me off driving long distances too as it was just tiresome going back down through the gears at the sniff of a hill and you certainly have NO acceleration up a hill, so if you get baulked by a slower vehicle, your screwed ...

If the motor seems to run on for a very short period and shut down a bit roughly, it can be the fuel cut solenoid not seating correctly or straight away. It's basically what causes these old motors to stop running, otherwise you have to choke it or somehow stop the fuel supply. The solenoid is ...

I bought a genuine Nissan seal made from Viton rubber, which is not affected by the LSD. It cost about $8.?? a few years back and was an order in job. It looks like an odd shapped o-ring (circular section rubber). Fitting it can be a bit of a pain, but is not too hard if you have a few hours to ...

Basically to install the castor plates, you firstly remove the rear bolt from the radius arm (or just remove the arm entirely if you want to drill them). Once you have figured out how the plates go (half washers on the inside and there is a nick out of the inner one near the pumkin) bolt them in ...

You should find they are the same. I recall when i went to Nissan to order mine with the part number they asked what it was for and told me these were from a GU not a GQ, but the early GUs are the same.

When we installed some new CV's, we removed the old ones (not broken) by getting a piece of pipe of appropriate length and size (big enough to take the inner axle with a snug fit (40mm should be good)) and mounting it vertically in the vice. You then stand on the bench above the vice, stick the ...

Probably should have added, that you shove the alignment tool into the disc and it will all it to hang off the spigot while you install and tighten down the cover (pressure plate). Sorry this might seem logical, but could be overlooked. Basically the cover will lock the disc into place, you have to ...

You need to use the alignment tool to get the spline in the centre of the disc aligned with the input shaft in your box, otherwise it will not line up when you try to reinstall it. You do this by aligning the splines with the spigot bearing/bush. A loose input shaft from a wrecker makes an ideal ...