Outer Limits 4x4 Board

NK was aparently gas compatible, but not the NJ.

The torque curve of the SOHC must be more consistant so to speak - cas on paper it isnt there... dohc 300nm @ 3000rpm, sohc 304nm?? @ 3500.

The economy difference between the two though is huge... and a set of lifters for a nj / nk is over 2500buks ...

Yeah we have had a few customers with noisy Triton gearboxes and have put thick 80w90 and 75w85 grade oils in with no luck unfortunately. We haven't tried the Castrol VMX80 tho. This is a straight 80 grade oil and works pretty well in most Mitsy's.
ie. I put it in my Lancer and it made a world of ...

1cm should be enough, but for an example, put the end of a straw, blow though, and now do it to the long lengh.

You can always go down to .9 or .8. As for adjustment, you could change the spring, but i doubt this is your problem, most seem to operate simular pressure to you, id imaigne the 13psi ...

Syncro's shouldnt have any effect. Generally the gear and selector ring gears have tappers on them, this is effectively wat holds the selector on the gear. There are also poppet springs with a ball at the end, these sit in slots along the selector shaft, when there is no load on the gear, these help ...

The princible been that you need to restrict the line to the waist gate. In alot of cases with a manual boost controller, if you wanted to do away with this, then a little bit of solid brass or there like inline, with an appropriate sized jet. .9 - 1.2mm is prolly a good starting point. But yeh ...

They are resistance based, so as temp increases resistence changes etc. This is only guesswork on my behalf, im not familiar enough with them, but it is possible that the sensor is completely dead, and when d/c and open circuit, its designed to only stay on for a preset limit. Check the resistance ...

*Retracts previous comment(s)*

Agreed, sounds unrelated to your clutch...

Rosscoe - Although that will prolly will work. The original design worked fine, so your really only maskin the underlying problem...

Someone else actually said something interesting (perhaps yourself or lambie) but after the glow plug light extinguished there was stlil power to the rail even once ...

Define jerks, you cant let it out progressively, no friction, no friction and then just grabs, or the clutch shudders as you release it??

If its the latter, been a new clutch its most likely that you bent the spline of the clutch plate when installing the gear box, so not having it level when you ...

When you say blown - wat actually happened to it, and how many k's???

The 3.8 is a fairly common conversion, good low torque, smooth down low, gives you acceptable economy and its a fairly cheap conversion - depending on how severe your 3.5 is though, you may find they both cost you a simular ...

Scott - i hate you! your right.....

Do a search for the flashin lights, or visit the pajero club forum - there are numerious topics on this, basically its most likely dirty sensor in the from diff.

Are you starting on gas or petrol? If gas, how long since its installation??

Its only done 38,000. Started after a trip to the sa coast last year bout easter time, gave it a little when we mucked around a bit, but thats bout it, started at about 1 cup of water for 600km of country driving, and nothing around town. Checked the plugs, no signs, oil is fine, did a pressure test ...

Buy a petrol, coolant temp sensor and ya laughin - not to mention no more smokey, noisy gutless, rattley pos under your bonnet :D

Moving on from been a jerk - I saw a 2.8 with cold starting problems, actually turned out to be the pump. When it started it only run on 2 or 3 cylenders after a fair ...

Anyone heard of any of the 4.8's using coolant in any way shape or form?

OK, Clutch dies - Flywheel off and machined, rear main seal replaced, inspect spiggot bearing but for the sake of a few buks replace, get clutch kit which comes with pressure plate, clutch plated and thrust bearing. Your question is now, how far you want to 'patch' it up, most likely again??? :roll ...

Hi there what im am after is some tips or tricks on replacing the thrust
bearing ? And do you recommend a bearing from mitsubishi or 1 from autopro etc etc.........? :D

Lets start with wat model it is with wat motor?

If its a 3.5NJ or later -

Prolly no huge advantage to going genuine - price ...

The 3ltr is excellant in the sand - all 3 diesels are 'average' with the mitsy 2.8 coming out slightly ahead.

As far as value for money, quality, ride and performance, the triton is hard to go part, but it doesnt have the 'reputation' of the hilux... why does the hilux have a repuation, god knows ...

Many ppl have actually said the 3.2did goes harder then both 3.5sohc and dohc... lets clear this up a little bit.

Fact: both the auto and manual stock DID are not quicker off the mark then a manual 3.5dohc (up to 80kmh)
Fact: both the auto and manual stock DID are not quicker off the mark then a ...

If it were mine - i would be doin it agian to insure it's all gone. Its not a myth, diff types of coolant mixed together, be it the smallest amount and one of both of a few things a very likely to happen. Jelling of the coolant, rust inhibitor can actually turn corrosive, boiling point lowered ...

When you say it was well worth it... wat gains did u get to justify $1200??? Origional motor with that spent on it and still a carby would out perform and stock efi motor.

The front i think will grow on ppl, its not that bad. Looks like the magna? say wat??? not even close, the magna is one unlikeably ugly speciman.

The arse of it and where the doors meet the tray though - no words can describe my facial expresson... looks something like this though