Outer Limits 4x4 Board

[quote="thehanko"]lol, i thought you could. the beauty of the net is that you can always get any answer - best bet is to email the auber guy, he is good with customer service and technical questions. 1 monitor can definitely monitor a number of different things - as to being able to monitor them at ...

as far as i'm aware no, only one at a time.

I've got one set up as a pyro and haven't had a single darma with it. Very happy with it still to this day

Yeah well unfortunately That seems to be where I'm headed now too. Does anyone know the part numbers for a rear wheel bearing kit?

Just one side mate.

In heindsight i reckon it'd be possible to shop around and get a better price then that. But unfortunatly didn't have that much spare time.

Yeah cheers mate.
I've bought them from sepco previously but just thought to myself there had to be a cheaper way to get them when you pay well over $100 there!

just spoke to the guys at Statewide Bearings at Virginia. Ordered the following - Inner bearing set - P/N HR33110J / HR33110JA $47.50 + GST Outer Bearing set - P/N LM501310 / LM501349 $28.66 + GST Total - $76.16 ($84 including GST) That's not including seals but i got a hub seal kit for $120 from ...

All good!
Took about 25 pages worth of searching but i found the numbers i was chasing.

[url]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... L+BEARINGS[/url]

Still chasing opinions of anyone that may have used them thou, cheers!

Repacked my front wheel bearings last night and noticed one side was rather shagged so looking into replacing it. Was wondering if anyone had just got their wheel bearings from a bearing shop instead of buying a kit from sepco or poopercheap? i understand if you buy a kit you get all the seals and ...

Yeah well that might just be it, if it's not sealing air tight then moisture and dust particles will be getting in there.

You haven't mixed brake fluids at all? i honestly don't think that would cause it but curious all the same.

Just what happens to brake fluid over time mate.

Thats when you know it's time to give the clutch and brake fluid a flush

Oh bugger really? Cause that would have been perfect!
Never mind, best of luck with it anyhow.

i think there was a guy that did this build up and took plenty of photos while at it.
i would imagine the search function or a mod might be able to help.

was in the nissan thread IIRC

but 2 hyclones are better than one so would that make 4 stroke oil twice as good as 2 stroke?!

wasn't their a discussion about flash-lube in the diesel?

excellent! good to hear it was an easy fix

Yeah good way to diagnose a harmonic balancer is to take the serpentine belt off and start the car. if the noise changes or goes away you know it's something that runs off the belt. IIRC the flex plates would usually make more noise when the engine was in drive and stationary. So start the engine ...

hahaha i put a comment about suggesting he test HID's with LED's.

He didn't like that much and said he was simply "comparing them" not testing them.
Suggested to him to change his video from ultimate automotive lighting test to ultimate automotive light comparison.

i'd be curious to see the HID vs LED comparison over halogen Vs LED.

what's next? Kerosene lantern Vs LED.....

I realise it's the way of the future, but a bit out of reach price wise for the average joe

Ah i see.

I was just thinking with a 45psi boost figure the intake air temps would be huge but with a well set up intercooler that is no longer a major factor.
So the unburnt fuel from lower boost then begin causing EGT's up?

Yeah for sure kiwi i realise that, was more just reinforcing the point that with a switched on driver, EGT's can be "controlled" to a degree.

What's the best way to get better control of skyrocketting EGT's?

welll that's a good point Digsy, sure in a perfect world you'd set it up so you could hold it flat stick and the thing would never heat up but even in the top level of racing in V8 supercars and F1, they still have overheating issues and work with the car instead of pushing it too hard. Sorry for ...

yeah mate, i've got a set that are bolted with plates either side of the chassis. They're easier to make and effective. However the U shape style you're thinking of is definatly a better way to go. Been down at ormeau trying to drive up the bum crack track with 2 other makes, all with sliders. One ...

could be an issue with glow plugs mate. i'd pull em out and check em out, or just put a new set in

white smoke is usually a sign of unburnt diesel.

Are they the bigger twin piston calipers?

I dare say you'd be better off with the larger GU booster and master cylinder.
i haven't actually fitted one up myself but i would imagine that it'd bolt straight up.

do you have new pads or rotors fitted?

did you bleed the brakes up correctly?

what's with the tube sitting above the manifold and individual hoses coming down from it?

looks good thou, bloody big turbo on that sucker too! me likey

yeah the head and all that are exactly the same.

the exhaust will be slightly different of course as you need to get the O2 sensor plumbed into it.

so did you get the complete loom that goes into the car and everything?
or a re they a stand alone loom?

yeah that was what i was always very cautious of dave, if it was well and truely buggered i'd get a tap or die but if it had a slight burr or a stud had copped a hit with a wayward hammer then it'd do the job perfectly! of course i learnt the lesson the hard way by trying to cut a thread with one ...

what year model is the engine? can't put an older engine in a newer car due to emission laws, just in case you we're looking to keep it 100% legal then that's something to worry about.

I've got a snap on thread repair kit. Won't cut down the threads like a true tap or die but has got me out of the shit so many times! I think all apprentices should be made to purchase one of these kits, it just saves so much time and money if you just spend 5 mins to clean a thread up then try ...

I think when i had to replace mine i just rang nissan with the vin number and they had the correct one in stock, didn't cost much either!

Sorry i didn't answer your question but i just thought it was the easiest way to get the right part for the job....