Outer Limits 4x4 Board

It would be no more stuffing around then fitting one to a petrol.

Unless you had a fairly decent aftermarket turbo or realy bad boost controll problems with your current setup then the extra cost/parts wouldnt really be worthwhile.

il get around 12 taking it easy. up around 15-16 working hard.

95 td42, gu turbo, upgraded pump and 13psi. non intercooled.

hey

Im about to re-bush my radius arms.

Was going to use genuine nissan, but use GU slotted bushes. After speaking with the local nissan dealer its going to be pretty exy. $348 for the lot!

Is there another alternative? Or is it like many nissan parts that you are better off paying the dollars ...

not sure on the block, but when we turbo'd a mates td42 with a water cooled turbo we just T pieced it into the heater hoses.

yeah i currently run 305/70/16 so its a little under 33". probly the same deal, doesnt look big just a bit unlucky with the wrong traffic branch cop.

But mine being a dx wagon 95 model td4.2 had a smaller original tyre then a 4.2 petrol wagon of the same year. So just chasing a placard that has ...

Thanx for the info, that what i was chasing.

How much longer are 80 series bump stops? do they just bolt into where the original patrol front bump stop bolts? any idea on cost?

I was also thinkin about measuring exactly how much longer they need to be. Then welding some box section cut to size on the dif housing and leave the original bump ...

yeah there is two reasons for this:

1: my tyre placard is worn away after 15 years of shit int he glovebox rubbing against it

2: i want to replace it with something that has a bigger tyre standard then my current.

RN: do you know where that manual can be found?

surely somebody out there makes ...

hmmm

nice idea, but i think the tyre dimensions of a 36" tyre mite stand out a bit too much....

idealy something with around a 33" or 285/75/16 tyre standard would be best

hey,

Im chasing a tyre placard for my patrol. Is there somehwere to source these or does anyone know of someone who can make them up?

I would prefer something custom ;) or alternativly one from a 4.2 petrol gq wagon as from what i can tell the left the factory with the largest tyre of the GQ ...

hey,

need to make some longer bump stops in my gq as with the diff bracing on top of the housing it is able to hit the sump.

Is there a bolt in longer rubber bump stop? or is a custom fab job?

Other option i was thinking was leave the factory rubber bump stop there and tack weld something of ...

i lengthened and stenghtened my standard arms. Been working well for a few years now with no drama's.

definately 6.0L if you can afford to. way more torque from lower revs!

khumo kl71 or bighorns

both well priced and preform well plus keep pretty good onroad manners.

just use a small d shakle, thats what i do with mine. similar setup as urs but not a full flare just a thick rubber mudflap with chain holding it.

this is the sort of comp i would be interested in. specially in the seq corner!

33's, small lift, unlocked and no cage needed, those sort of guidlines. so weekend joe can take his fourby out, have a bit of fun competing against his mates and other similar wheelers. And best of all not need to spend ...

whats sort of ballpark prices are good looking aftermarket alloys worth? like those pictured?

ive always just bought max offset steel sunnies. a: cause im a tightass b: when i bend them on trail i can just bash them straight(ish) to keep air

but i do like the looks of the alloy

IMO they are a must.

a good quality a/m temp gauge is a must on any fourby, as lots of dash gauges are quite inaccurate.

and once u start playing around with turbo conversions, boost/fuel upgrades etc then a pyro is another must.

i like to know whats happening in my noise maker so i have boost ...

i have a 3" mandrell exhaust with NO mufflers on my turbo td42. its definately not what i would call loud.

had zero dramas from police for noise.

good to hear.

thermo's - i hate em. stock clutch fan in good cond any day for me!

As mentioned above,

if your not running the 37's all the time and have 33's or similar for daily duties, id look at reduction gears and leave the diffs how they are.

550 is the max i let mine get to, 99% of the time il back off at 500.

gq td4.2 with gu turbo setup.

i like to have mine under about 90deg celcius at all times. but, sometimes it gets a little higher.

IMO under a 100deg cel with good coolant is pretty safe.

Its the high egt's that are the killer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/TYPE-2-Water-Air-Intercooler-Kit-Advanced-/110575313523?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19becd6273

check it out
Ive also been looking at something similar to this for my non intercooled turbo td42. my setup is larger pump with compensator, GU turbo and 3 ...

sorry for the dumb question, but what do u use to make the welding rods work?

im running a sefari tuff clutch in my turbo td42 gq. for the little bit extra in price i would rather have something a lot heavier duty. specially when ya offroad with bigger tires.

gq/gu being hydrulic clutch, even when u put a heavier clutch in, the pedal isnt that heavy. if anthing it has a ...

dont waste ya time with the rb20. IF (i say if) it is making 450rwhp it will be extremely laggy. to get that much power out of a rb20 it will have nothing below 5000rpm.

i would look into a rb25 or rb30 with a mid sized turbo upgrade. Something lowmount and internally wastegated.

also make sure u check the inner gaurds, firewall seams and floor pans for cracks. this is also a common problem with gq's, cause mainly from the their awesomness!

i upgraded to a tripple core copper item. for around $400

didnt trust the cheap alloy ones to not crack and wasnt paying 800-1k for a good quality alloy one.