Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Tidy. Good length. Nothing wrong with a thin rear door. Looks just like my Crewman ;-)

Great to hear you take comments from last year on board. Definitely much better. Was really frustrated with the lack of updates though - so and so is lining up on this course. This course is finished for the day. There'll be a delay on this course for this reason. Occasionally this kind of ...

Holy oversight batman. Am I missing something... did you just think a 5spd would fit where the 4sp was? Or do you mean it originally had a 4sp, was converted to 5 and now you're putting in a new 5sp? As stated, the 5sp is longer between the mounts and the bellhousing than the 4sp. Either the mounts ...

counter point for you - I put 33" MT/Rs on my 82 SWB MQ *after* a 2" BL and found I had about 10mm clearance if that. Without the BL I'm sure I would have scrubbed when turning at least. Still, too many variables to be sure (actual tyre size, etc.), and has a lot to do with how much the leaves have ...

What's wrong with yours? I ran 35's on my MQ and it didn't brake like an Excel, but you could get the fronts squirming so the rubber was the limiting factor. Probably easiest thing to do would be to check the pads and replace if necessary, then upgrade the brake lines to braided if need be. Much ...

Play between the two commentators was well done - broke up the styles and kinda allowed you to be everywhere at once. Would have liked some score updates. Would have liked more interviews. Regardless of who you are, your voice gets annoying after a few hours, so break it up somehow. Eg. interviewing ...

Search members dude, lotsa MQ flares there. 1. Bunnings garden edging: cheap, wide, stiff. Too stiff if ya gunna be leaning up against them a lot. Otherwise, really good option. 2. Original: crap, will take your 1/4 panels with them. Crack easy. 3. Clark rubber: expensive, not very wide, flexible ...

Wow, isn't this "he said, she said"? All I can offer is my experience - MQ on 35" MT/R's, no P/S (just sore elbows). Had typical Nissan wobble in the steering wheel. Went away when I changed tyres but then steadily came back. Spent the $$$ at TTruck for a RTC and wacked it on. Very bling. Very not a ...

Cheers everyone. Took the unit to a brake and clutch dude. He reckoned the cylinders were too wrecked to seal. Sold me a new master ($115, was expecting $65!) and a new rubber for the slave. Used some 800 grit and some petrol on the slave cylinder until it was still discoloured but nicely smooth ...

Did a bunch more bleeding to no avail. Have taken the unit off now. Stripped it down and everything looks good. Couldn't identify a leak and all seals looked healthy. I played around with it for ages, pumping fluid through it. Now is this normal: with the slave disconnected, I couldn't get a stream ...

Exhaust is on the other side, headers on same side are not real close, but the engine got very hot recently. Could be related... So it's possible I just need to bleed a heap more? Like go through a reservoir or two? I've been through about half a reservoir with no change (same pattern I described ...

I think it was leaking just a little bit from where the pipe goes into the slave. I tightened that up and it doesn't appear to be leaking any more. Regardless, I could deal with a slow leak if I could get my clutch back! They look like this: http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l119/l1teyear/crap ...

I have a 350 Chev powered MQ whose clutch that would get gradually less effective (only driven every couple of months) until the other day it wouldn't disengage at all. After screwing around getting the slave off, thinking I could space it out to bodge it up, I noticed the reservoir was empty. I ...

I've added my short vids to my photo collection from the event.

http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l119/ ... ls%202006/

I went to an air-con place here in Newcastle. Cost $165/pair or something, but they're good.

My piccies are up. I have lots of video clips too, but I'm still going through them.

http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l119/ ... ls%202006/

You can head to lochinvar and then turn off to go out via allandale road, then out via broke road, which brings you out to the putty road and go from there. Righto, in that case I think I'll just head out through Cessnock - same way I get to W.E. Rock. I think we are going down on Friday afternoon ...

Hey dudes, I'm in for some spectating and heckling. Likely to be driving down from Newcastle and have a couple of seats spare. Probably get there Friday arvo at this stage. What's the best way to go, by the way? Surely not all the way out to Singo?

yeah , is it as easy as removing the spring from car, laying it flat, so there is no pressure on it, then removing the bolts that hold it together, then remove the lower / short spring or is it the 2nd, then put it all back together ??? No need to remove the springs dude. Just jack the car up by ...

Just looking for info and pointers on fitting a 350 Chev into a SWB MQ currently running the L28 and 4 speed manual Done recently. I want to keep things simple so don't really want to worry about any fancy electrics to go with auto's etc. Fine. 4sp will have the engine sitting very close to the ...

I don't know how to convert a PDF or word diagram to a jpg picture so i can't host it. could those of you who are prepared to help shoot me a pm or post so i can forward it to you. Send me the PDF and I'll have a stab. Contact details at bottom of post. 1. on high draw items like my compressors ...

Bought a puller and it was next to useless, because the arms couldn't grab onto the lip well enough. Tried heat (just a butane torch, but still enough to worry the rubber bushes). Tried levering, hitting, wedging, lubing. Then tried a chain around the draglink, near the joint to the tie rod, other ...

My 82 L28 w/ elec fuel pump has a two pipe inlet to the float (although my manual pages show a one pipe inlet). One of them is blocked off (so the one pipe inlet would suit me fine). The other runs to a boss that is bolted to the manifold near cylinder 2 or so. That metal boss has an attachment at ...

Can always try a screwdriver: plastic end in ear, metal end on engine, probing for the location of the sound. Should give you cyclinder region and top or bottom region. Sounds tappet-y. Can you run it without the rocker cover on? Might be a bit messy, but may help. Definitely pull the rocker cover ...

dont hit down on the nut!! Lever down on the tie rod and hit the end of the steering arm on the swivell hub HARD Mmm, I've heard of that technique actually and now that I've been reminded, I'll try it on the shorty. Problem is, the tie rod ends are already loose on the longy - it's the upper drag ...

Any tips for getting the taper out at the top of the drag link? Both tie rod ends came away from their sockets after a good tapping with the sledgie, but the drag link (that's the link connected to the tie rod right?) is stuck good. There's nothing in the engine bay of this vehicle, so I'm able to ...

adjust preload on clutch fork? Where the slave pushes on the rod there could be some adjusting nuts.... there is on the MQ

Bought a rear MQ ARB recently. Says in the manual max of 100psi. Not sure about minimum pressure to operate but someone around these traps suggested that they work at ~60 and you save your seals. My OBA is capable of much more, but it makes sense to not go overboard on your $$$ lockers.

Revisiting this topic because I think the previous information on here was not quite right. Please confirm or disprove the following: The MQ had 3 different radiators, based on the engine. All fit on the same mounts. L28 - 640x450x48mm, filler on driver side, outlet high on passenger side, low on ...

Seriously mate, here's your learning curve: it's a pulley. The harmonic balancer is the round lump of metal between the pulley and the block - that's a little more complicated. The pulley is just a pulley, sometimes called the crankshaft or main pulley. The pulley is bolted to the harmonic balancer ...