Outer Limits 4x4 Board

cruiser60series wrote:OK will report back when I use a dial gauge on the pistons this weekend when I get the head off. I assume the only reason it won't start now because the head gasket is buggered and there is not enough compression, regardless of bent rods.

And the answer is....................

What I want to know is once I get the head off will it be easy for me to measure the stroke and determine if I have a bent rod, or could a possible bend be more minor and not as easily measured as that. Also since the engine didn't get up to high torque/rpm is it even likely I have a bent rod ...

mellows40 wrote:Hey Guys,
Here is the result...
The immobilizer unit was bypassed, a new fuel cut off solenoid was fitted and hard wired to the ignition.

So the immobilizer unit was the problem or am I misreading.....

The Game wrote:Just the engine block mate.

To me just a block (ie block,crank, rods, pistons and maybe a sump) is a short engine.......

Stockhorse... do you actually HAVE a lockup in all gears 442 or have you just enquired/read about them....

Some 442s were hydraulic as well, same as the 440s....

The a440f will marry straight up to the 2h,12ht,1hz,2f petrol and also the 3f petrol I have done this conversion several times and the a440f is a wickedly strong box I am using one in my winch truck behind a 5ltr injected v8 with no dramas at all, My understanding on the a440f is, while the box ...

I am currently running the stock a440f. the 440 can only have tc lock up in 4th (standard) and 3rd and 4th (wholesale auto mod). the 440 runs a lock up torque convertor. The 442 can have torque convertor lockup in all gears and it is controlled through the valve body. A modification kit (wholesale ...

Well i didnt have to pull it down so i could start it on the street.. was able to use the uzj100 to push it up the driveway and into the shed.. so now the teardown starts to find out wtf happened and to clean up the intake. thanks guys.. Probably too late, but take GOOD fotos of what you find ...

300WM What does the dyno say.

Could that be in the Toyota when they changes from a 4.11 to a 4.10? I've never heard of a factory vehicle with different ratios!? I think I saw the different ratios from factory quoted on a US site..... maybe an early International Scout... had a quick look for it but couldn't find it ...

I'm not a big fan of different ratios, however, I do believe (from what others have said) some vehicles did come with different ratios from the factory, tho my brain says they were actually closer numerically than what you are running.... can you run slightly larger diameter tyres on the front to ...

If you have to jack it up, mark driveshaft and tyre, rotate the wheel one complete revolution and count the tailshaft turns. You will see the difference between those ratios. Please expand on how the above method helps on finding the actual ratio...... I do agree the OP should pull the centre and ...

And the answer is.........

How do you know the rings are good....... Why can't it be a head gasket... If 2 of the cylinders that have no comp are adjacent, it points a little more to head gasket...... Basically it costs nothing to pull the head to confirm what's crapped it's pants......

I thought bru21 on here had one for sale or it may have been only materials to construct one...

Maybe check other more specialized forums... just a thought... might be common... good luck with it...

Ahhhh...... So refer to my previous VW reference post........

Pull it apart and see what you've got ie whether it's savable with nothing/minimum spent and take fotos... put it back together with new gaskets etc and have your fun.... then sell it as what you find/found, no b/s on it..."has been seized but we freed it up and it runs... this is what you're buying"

yes red The tie rod end I got from repco was greaseless, others for other vehicles over last long time have also mostly been greasless, you mean they just dont have a grease nipple right? they will definately have grease in there, they just dont need to be topped up for the life of the joint. if ...

poppywhite wrote:Seems most dont come with grease added from the factory, and no grease nipple as well. planned failure

A little KY goes a long way

Have you cut a new ebay/cheapy one apart?

I have heard those actually "called" steam holes in that approximate position on other motors (sb chev)... whether they actually have anything to do with steam I don't know for sure..... don't forget between the cylinders in those areas, you have a very small amount of water relatively speaking, so ...

I've just had a Plazmaman W2A intercooler custom made and Graeme will be getting my 80 for one of his kits as soon as that is fitted - I cannot wait :D :D :D Do some simple (and accurate as you can with details) tests before you change stuff, then the same tests after changes... then a writeup so ...

Only problem is that i can't seem to find it anywhere....Any ideas for where the engine number on a 350 Chev engine is? Roughly...? The engine number is at the front of the motor on top of the block (deck) where the head sits... part of the block sits out past the head.... so to find it look where ...

mattmac2011 wrote:Thanks guys. I still have the diff apart so I can count all that's required an work it out.

Cheers Matt

And the teeth count is..... and the ratio is?

I'm sure the OP could clear all this conjecture up in a few, well maybe more than a few, sentences.....

If you check out the video they turn to the Dyno at the end showing 382 I am gathering that's rwhp. Did they mean it was going to produce 700hp or they where using a turbo capable of 700hp. If I mount a monster turbo (capable of 1500hp) on my 1300 vw beetle does that mean I can claim 1500hp :D ...

Count the crown wheel teeth.... count the pinion teeth... count both ACCURATELY... then divide the big number by the little number..... that's your diff ratio... some diffs have the numbers stamped on the edge of the crown wheel (like 10 x 37) but I don't know if the LN106 does....

Will be interested to see how it goes. A mate has a 100 solid axle petrol, turbo'd.... Undergoing build number three....or it's four I think actually. Last few rebuilds were due to (1) water ingress snapping a rod and making all sorts of mess/carnage, (2) melted pistons and scored bores, reasons ...

I think it is 3.73, came in jap 60 series and american 60 series, apprently some early 40 series had them. The north americans seem to quote the 3.73 (41:11 I think) ratio a lot for 60s.... it should be 3.7 (37:10)..... I have a set and have counted the teeth numerous times... am looking for ...

rockcrawler31 wrote:I lost about 2psi through the W2A from pwr. but i suspect it's not just pressure losses it's also the air recondensing and becoming denser due to a lower temperature.

What are the temps before and after the I/C at 25lbs boost