Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Try GME

http://www.gme.net.au/products/accessor ... ones/MC204

Z()LTAN wrote:Get a 79 series radiator they are much better

What's the difference??

Genquip/Kipor, has anyone got one and can comment. I’m after a 2000W model and given that I would only use it occasionally am thinking if it’s worth paying an extra $800 for a Honda of the same output.

vit94 wrote:Looking for an 80 series deisel and just wondering if over 300'000 kms is too risky to buy, if not then what sort of money would you expect to pay.

95 GXL and onwards.

Like anything it would depend if its been maintained, mines got over 300K and still going strong.

When enquiring ask if they supply you with a coc - certificate of compliancy to ensure that the installation is to aus standards.

The converters here in Adelaide when I enquired could not furnish me with a coc if I went ahead, needless to say this may be a issue with insurance if something farks up.

Micky-Lux wrote:
There's an orange warning light that comes on when the level's low. If the red light comes on, it's really low. Kind of idiot proof really.

Until the idiot light farks up, that is.

Did my injectors at 200K and did squat difference to anything.

What would they be for a 75?

Thanks

Is there much difference in terms of seal life between a genuine toyota seal or a aftermarket seal and how many klicks could I expect before it leaks?

Thanks

Turn up the stereo, tends to get rid a lot of engine noise, squeaks, rattles etc

Try this site,

http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/viewdo ... cid=17&p=1

What cost for OEM filters or similar as valvoline or ryco cost me around $25.

I average about 12, with a best of 11 and worst of 13 in all situations, city driving, highway,towing and wheeling in a 75 ute with 280K on the clock however I rarely go over 100km/h.

There is also the hassle factor and what that's worth to an individual.

Telephone calls, different time zones, payment,freight, insurance and the hassles from non delivery or late delivery and how much time that you have to fark around with these vs going to the store, buying it and taking it home.

Another Toorak taxi, air bags, big motor good for towing those horse floats and the front track is 95mm wider than the rear, great for 4w driving.

AutoCAD or MicroStation although there is much more info such as tutorials available on the net for AutoCAD.

The interface is very similar on many of these packages.

SASS wrote:Are bluemax better then ironman? (yes i know ironman are shit!!)

I would disagree, I've had ironman leafs in my 75 for about 120,000 kms and have not had a problem with them.

Sic Lux wrote:

rojak wrote:copper 4 core.

What PWR are copper thought they were all alloy

I didn't say it was a PWR

Do you have to upgrade your loom??

copper 4 core.

Ugly.......Spend that much to pretend to look look a ricer. Just sell and buy a ricer.

Mine was doing the same, lost about 4 litres of water then stopped, ran ok for a while then it did it again.....radiator tanks were starting to corrode, crap would dislodge and leak then reseal(?).

New radiator fixed it.

Sand it and respray. Even if you manage to get it off there will probably be some form of outline.

If all else fails, drill it, weld it and retap it.

Easiout.

I've got twin factory lockers on my 75.

Rear needs to engage first before front can engage but now the rear doesn't engage, the lights blink on the dash then when you switch to the front that engages without the rear.

Any suggestions as to wtf is going on??

Increase noise = Hoon.

I took mine off to fit a spring base as the bottom of the tube (??) was starting to crack. The guys at the Electric Bug ( Adelaide) gave me a diagram to enable the cable to be resoldered allowing specific dimensions for the cable and the sheath........if this makes sense.

Turned on the air con and found that the fan only works on setting 3 & 4 but not on 1 & 2.

Anyone shed any light on this??

Cheers

Get some plate and weld them.

The tjm bar comes with muffler clamps ( or mine did anyway)



The rod base plate sits flat on the clamp, when tight it doesn't spin.[/img]