Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Does that mean you would have to blead them afterwards? No, no, but you might have to when your finished, they usually self bleed. I said it because you don't want fuel to ignite while your doing the test, because if you think 500PSI is a lot wait till you get diesel combustion. The tester could ...

so he ran a new wire directly from the pump to power ( as a temparary fix ) That was 2 years ago -- works fine. Thats only good for the non electronic pumps, like if your engine description on the silver plate on the firewall DOES NOT have E at the end. If it's a 5L-E serious damage could be done ...

Pagey_1 wrote:Ill track down a diesel comp tester now!

They are expensive. People don't like lending them out either, because it's east to damage them if fuel combusts. Injector lines must be first undone, fuel pumped out of cylinders before connecting the tester.

Looking at the VR diagram, which should be the same or close for the VS, it's a simple job. Looking at the plug YB35, wires 434 and 1434 will be the start inhibitor (to operate the start (cranking) relay and wires 339 (to switched ignition power) and 29 (directly to globes) will work the reverse ...

Yeah i think i will go have another look and check all these things out and take my comp tester with me! what is good comp by the way? Thanks again guys, your a great help! Is it a diesel compression tester? A petrol tester will explode. 450-500 PSI is good with about 20 PSI over all cylinders ...

1/ What is the widest Offset in 6 stud Rims? EG Patrol, Crusier, etc Custom rims can be made to any size depending on tyres available. Just look at speedway sprint cars. I think they run about 20 inch wide on a 14 inch rim. You can get Sunnys from tyre shops with big offset to suit up to 12 inch ...

I'm not defending Kaymar's product for the sake of it , but that latch is an amazinly elegant piece of engineering. My opinion is they found something industrial and copied it. Nothing special about that! I'm sure many people here can contribute alternatives from the industrial world to many ...

Rust in top of doors behind rubbers, around windscreen (obvious sanding marks in bog) and dirt build-up in chassis. Broken engine mounts. Rust in firewall, test with a hose on windscreen for water penetration.

bru21 wrote:http://www.dana-ridge.com.au/content/elesa.asp

then look at toggle clamps

Every now and then, someone comes-up with something special!

Well done.

marz357 wrote:thanks alot mate il have a look at that stuff after work today.

I forgot to mention the 10amp Gauge fuse.

I also heard the new ones flood inside when water is over the sills.

Sounds like an issue with the combo switch on the column.

See if you can find a wrecker with one and your prepare your car to be able to have access to the plugs, then go there and ask to plug in a known good one before you have to pay. They should be OK with helping you out if it means a sale.

would a Panhard rod help reduce the diff rotating since i might not have the space for a traction rod? Or the cheapest alternative to reduce axle tramp, diff rotating is to install the shocks in the Hotchkiss method? Or does this method really affects ultimate suspension travel/ articulation? Am i ...

Just to straighten you out on the facts; You have full time (solid) front hubs. OK, The ADD system is possibly faulty. It is very common and there is an electric shift actuator motor on the rear of your transfer case. Corrosion is what usually stops the motor. It needs to be removed and cleaned ...

Err- Prado's are rotary pumps- with the 1KZ-TE Turbo diesel LC78/9's with the 1HD-FTE turbo and 1HZ NA diesel are rotary LC100 and LC105's with the 1HD-FTE and 1HZ are rotary All of them have Dual tanks, none of them have lift pumps, all of them manually switched via a pair of solenoids underneath ...

ferrit wrote:I could just drill out all the spot welds and swap the rad supports, but thats too much like hard work!

You don't have to change the rad support panel, just cut the headlamp holes bigger, unless you are a perfectionist!

Traction (torsion) rods stop the diff rotating with soft springs. Lateral rods (pan hard) keep the diff located in coil setups.

Both can hinder articulation, especially torsion rods

The older one is better, by far. $10K is a lot of fuel money and money for a turbo and intercooler.

Little Johny and his pro-active facilitation of "Corporate powers"!

You guys really don't know the big picture. Little Johny will never be short of a buck till the day he dies. He made sure of that!

when you say a second tank beside the normal one - would it be another hilux tank? or are their certain others that also fit? do you know how many liters long range tanks are to suit these? might just be an easier option as they seem to be available 2nd hand fairly often. or does this put too much ...

Assuming you have the rotary IP, you can not have it switchable in the same fashion as diesel or petrol EFI cars with common rail injection without having two lift pumps (petrol V6 Hilux has a lift pump in-tank). It would have to be different with low pressure solenoid valves off each tank (see last ...

So what happens when all the car manufacturers stop production in Aus?

Will there still be import duty on Imports or will the big 4 or 5 still get concessions claiming their OS manufactured cars are strictly for the Aus market?

For the sake of others in QLD thinking of doing the same interstate thing, this is a question you should ask before buying it. Then consult (with pics and reports) with an engineer in QLD capable of certifying it before buying it.

Chatto, I hope you find someone to help and let us know how you go!

99% sure, my ln 106 has surf bits all over it. crome grill etc. seems fine. The SR5 stuff is chrome and different from the Surf chrome bits. The slanty eye head lights are very different from standard Hilux and SR5. Surf slanty eye type; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item ...

If you can't get a reading of less than 120 in easy conditions, your cooling system is a time bomb for your engine.

That's a beefy looking latch, however, the tab design it's catching is pretty dubious IMHO- it's pretty weak with those bends and no gusseting. The TAB is 10mm thick flat bar. I can't get it to flex. That latch is much more complex too - many more moving parts and three springs to do the same job ...

Does anyone know if the surf grille and headlights surrounds (the ones with the slanted headlights) will fit a hilux ute. The front half of the cars are the same, will it clip in?[/img] The rad support has different holes for the headlamps. I know the indicators/side lamps are different as far as ...

Check the earth straps to your engine and the battery and returns for your wiring harness near the ecu if it has one. (I don't know this model) Also check for corrosion on every possible pin or terminal in every plug, reset them all one at a time. You may find the culprit. I know the Comm V6 engine ...

Those Kaymar things are nothing like the one on the custom job I bought. The latch on it is bigger and is a generic design used in the truck, bus and rail industry for equipment that does many millions of KMs. I'm guessing the one on mine would be cheaper and stronger. They work best when there is ...

So is anyone able to post a picture of this Kaymar latch setup?