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just cruizin' wrote:
That must make fitting the drive shafts a pita, or is easiler then it looks.
Almost as easy to get to as standard. But I could be lazy and not even remove the shafts when removing the case, just the drop the lot right out The speedo cable is a biatch to get to though next time the case is out i might try to find a way to get to it easier.
Zute wrote:Mark, is that a hand brake hanging off the back of yours ? If so, is the T-case at standard height ? Ive all ready bent one and have been thinking of doing a plate similar to yours but didn't know if it would have enough room.
Must also fit the webing around the mounts. Great idear.
Yeah the handbrake is still there. And the t-case is lifted a fair bit like sanger mentioned.
Roctoy Designfab wrote:this setup looks to be the BOMB!
THE 109 wrote:Some drain holes wouldn't go a stray, hopefully you don't cook your transfer.
good work guys.
I like mine without drain holes, it comes out often enough for servicing and i don't leak oil onto the driveway or have holes to get caught on this way
Why would the t-case get cooked? because of the lack of ventilation now or because there is no drain holes
Mine has been fine, wheeling and on the freeway, i don't think it's an issue
Cool.
Thats better, now beef up your tcase mounting arms and replace the mounting rubbers with sway bar rubbers and solid bolts and it should be pretty bomb proof.
Example order for when you replace the rubber mounts which tear inhalf.
from the top nyloc nut, washer, sway bar link bush, t-case arm, swaybar link bush, chasis mount, swaybar link bush, washer, bolt 10mm x 100mm long.
Looks good sanger,good job,just fix up the transfer mounts,some guys get two standard driver side mounts and weld them together but a piece of angle iron,6mm,will do the job. Just cut and redrill mounting holes and nylon nuts are essential. Cheers Paul.