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Hey fellas! Long time lurker, not a big poster, but anyways love this site
So onto my question.. We have a 95 stock sierra, we wanted a stock so we could learn about cars in general and eventually start some simple mods. So our first challenge is replacing the release bearing (clutch squeal when clutch is engaged). We figured this is just about going as far as taking the clutch out, so we thought while we're here we'll replace it with a heavy duty new clutch (exedy's been recommended a few times round here, so we figure we'll go for that). So we grabbed the haynes manual did a few searches on here and started our adventure..
We've taken out the transfer case and are now working on taking out the transmission. The manual says we have to take out the distributor and the starter, is this really necessary? To us (remember we are learning) it doesn't seem like they are interrelated (and a screw on the distributor is being a real pain in the arse!), but we could be completely wrong. Can anyone shed some light on this step of the process?
Can't wait to get our little zook back out 4wding where it's happiest
the reason they tell you to remove the distributor is that when the box comes out the engine tilts rearwards and the dist cap hits on the firewall usually causing it to crack.. all you need is a small wedge (usually a block of 50mm x 75mm wood) to stop this from happening..
as for the t-case removal im not really sure why they ask you to do that..you only need to unbolt the front shaft and the jackshaft..
please as silly as it sounds do not forget to remove the thin inspection plate on the very bottom of the gearbox facing the sump... this can cause much frustration...
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
remeber to put the shim that goes between g/box and engine back in aswell.
so parts you should have to remove,
wiring loom from gbox(they have clips on firewall you can undo, remember where they go)
front tail shaft
jackshaft between gbox and tcase
gbox cross member
clutch cable
should only be one rear mount actually holding the gbox in, then you have 2 bolts and 2 studs that hold the gbox to the engine
you will have to remove your starter aswell.
Might also have the batterys earth cable going to a stud on the gbox(one of the studs above), so remember to put that back on.
good luck!
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Thanks for your help guys We're trudging along quite nicely and have finally made it to the clutch! Haven't removed it yet because many of our tools have broken in this expedition and its proving quite challenging to remove some bolts without the proper/easiest tool.
Always buy the very best hand tools you can afford (there are plenty of decent quality and reasoanbly priced units out there.)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Yea we had a crappy set given to us as a gift, now that we understand how bad it is to work with crap tools we plan on getting a good set. Pitty we had to find out the hard way..
Just a word of thanks to you guys, was a great help. This was our first big thing on our car (well big to us) only took us 3 weekends We were so into getting the clutch off that we totally forgot about taking the throw-out bearing off which was our main objective in the first place Oh well.. plenty of time for that.
Now we just have to get the new one and put the jigsaw puzzle back together, I'm pretty sure we took of a zillion pieces that we didn't actually have to do.. but its all a learning experience for us!
But now that we have the exhaust off it seems it might be wise to replace it, it's pretty rusted out and hey, we might even get a little more punch out of our zook in the end
love_mud wrote:Always buy the very best hand tools you can afford (there are plenty of decent quality and reasoanbly priced units out there.)
+1
If you do it enough, its a one and a half hour job for a clutch change working at an average pace.
Layto....
Is that with a alignement tool? They can be pigs of things to do and lining up.
No tool , just done a fair few clutches.
Layto....
I had it down to about an hour ... due to various reasons (not needing to jack the car up helped alot, being able to sit up with my head in transmission tunnel certainly helped when aligning the clutch)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
love_mud wrote:Always buy the very best hand tools you can afford (there are plenty of decent quality and reasoanbly priced units out there.)
+1
If you do it enough, its a one and a half hour job for a clutch change working at an average pace.
Layto....
Is that with a alignement tool? They can be pigs of things to do and lining up.
No tool , just done a fair few clutches.
Layto....
I had it down to about an hour ... due to various reasons (not needing to jack the car up helped alot, being able to sit up with my head in transmission tunnel certainly helped when aligning the clutch)
I could probably do mine quicker for the same reason Guy, how good is it not needing a jack to get under your car . The last car i did a clutch on i had to drive up onto bits of wood just to get a jack under it.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Hey guys, I have a new problem... I ordered a new HD exedy clutch from suzisport and it arrived today. In the order I told them what I needed (clutch kit for a '95 sierra, 18spline version) and he sent me this...
So unless I'm counting wrong (or am counting the wrong thing, or have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about), this clutch only has 12 splines?
As above, what you are counting is the fingers for the diaphram spring in the clutch (the bit that clamps it together). The splines are the little gorrves on the end of the gearbox input shaft. To confirm you have the right stuff, grab your friction plate and make sure it will fit over the spline on gearbox input shaft.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Sorry for my ignorance, we're total noobs but learning..
lay80n, I dont have access to the car or anything else bar the old clutch at the moment, I will check when I get over there again.
nicbeer your talking about the cluch disk right? The thing in the other box Its a different size (19.7cm vs 18.7) and the new one has more coil thingys than the old one (6 vs 4).
svendenhowser wrote:Sorry for my ignorance, we're total noobs but learning..
lay80n, I dont have access to the car or anything else bar the old clutch at the moment, I will check when I get over there again.
nicbeer your talking about the cluch disk right? The thing in the other box Its a different size (19.7cm vs 18.7) and the new one has more coil thingys than the old one (6 vs 4).
Thanks for your patience guys
The coils are springs, these help dampen the clutch's pick up action a bit. Smooth it out. Yes the other plate (the one with the lining on it, and the springs) will be the friction plate. What you posted was the pressure plate . Now you know what they are called it will help us help you
Good luck.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
when taking the bearbox out and putting back in the easiest way i found was to cut a small section of the front of the gearbox mount i had a lot of problems getting mine back up in place and that was the only way i succeeded. getting it out was easy just yanked it out lol
We were so into getting the clutch off that we totally forgot about taking the throw-out bearing off which was our main objective in the first place 
