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disco rims
Moderator: Micka
disco rims
Guys, what is the widest tyre in a 35" height that I can fit on Disco steel rims? what have some of you guys got on your trucks? and how do you rate them.
Cheers
Darren
Cheers
Darren
Yes - stock disco 1 steels are 16x7.
I have 285/75/16 (33") on my disco rims, but at 11.2" they should be on at least a 7.5" rim - but they work fine and seem to hold the bead better on a narrower rim.
Check the manufacturer's web site for the tyre you want to fit. But as a rule, 10.5 or 275 is about the widest.
I have 285/75/16 (33") on my disco rims, but at 11.2" they should be on at least a 7.5" rim - but they work fine and seem to hold the bead better on a narrower rim.
Check the manufacturer's web site for the tyre you want to fit. But as a rule, 10.5 or 275 is about the widest.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Hey
we need a tyre expert to address these issues. I spoke with a local Auto Engineer who specialises in wheel mods and he basically rubbished everything I proferred in relation to using narrower rims to help keep the tyre on the rim, rim flips for the same and less damage for narrower rims etc.
He got quite angry at one point saying someone's having a lend of you.
He showed me a typical rim design and patiently explained how the bead lock and other features worked. He was adamant that narrower rims for larger tyre widths, eg., 12 inch using 8 inch rims were dangerous and actually helped the tyre to demount under all circumstances.
He convinced me to purchase 10inch rims for the 12 inch tyres we run, and talked me out of rim flips 'cause they are more likely to hit the brakes unless they have a large off set.
He also said there's no benefit in rim flips in keeping the tyre on cause the bead lock ridge is the same on both sides. Air pressure is what mainly keeps the tyre on the rim when deflated and under stress large enough to force the bead over the ridge, and this is the same regardless of the rim being flipped or not. He also argued that narrower rims assisted the tyre to fall off by the tyre acting like a lever on the outer rim.
I left his premises wondering who is right! But decided that wider rims are probably a safer bet.
we need a tyre expert to address these issues. I spoke with a local Auto Engineer who specialises in wheel mods and he basically rubbished everything I proferred in relation to using narrower rims to help keep the tyre on the rim, rim flips for the same and less damage for narrower rims etc.
He got quite angry at one point saying someone's having a lend of you.
He showed me a typical rim design and patiently explained how the bead lock and other features worked. He was adamant that narrower rims for larger tyre widths, eg., 12 inch using 8 inch rims were dangerous and actually helped the tyre to demount under all circumstances.
He convinced me to purchase 10inch rims for the 12 inch tyres we run, and talked me out of rim flips 'cause they are more likely to hit the brakes unless they have a large off set.
He also said there's no benefit in rim flips in keeping the tyre on cause the bead lock ridge is the same on both sides. Air pressure is what mainly keeps the tyre on the rim when deflated and under stress large enough to force the bead over the ridge, and this is the same regardless of the rim being flipped or not. He also argued that narrower rims assisted the tyre to fall off by the tyre acting like a lever on the outer rim.
I left his premises wondering who is right! But decided that wider rims are probably a safer bet.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
Well both myself and a mate ran 35x10.5x15 centipedes, same tracks, same conditions, same vehicles, same air pressure, both tubeless........
I lost numerous tyres on 8" rims where as he has only ever lost 1, but the valve got torn out, on 7" rims........
He's alo a little more cautious than me
But the 7"s do hold better in the bush
I lost numerous tyres on 8" rims where as he has only ever lost 1, but the valve got torn out, on 7" rims........
He's alo a little more cautious than me

But the 7"s do hold better in the bush
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Your engineer is right on one point - rim flips DON't help keep the bead on, and can make it worse. Modern (tubeless) rims will either be marked J or JJ - J means one safety bead (outer only) JJ means one on each side. So flipping a JJ rim makes no difference, flipping a J rim can make things worse.Reddo wrote:Hey
we need a tyre expert to address these issues. I spoke with a local Auto Engineer who specialises in wheel mods and he basically rubbished everything I proferred in relation to using narrower rims to help keep the tyre on the rim, rim flips for the same and less damage for narrower rims etc.
He got quite angry at one point saying someone's having a lend of you.
He showed me a typical rim design and patiently explained how the bead lock and other features worked. He was adamant that narrower rims for larger tyre widths, eg., 12 inch using 8 inch rims were dangerous and actually helped the tyre to demount under all circumstances.
He convinced me to purchase 10inch rims for the 12 inch tyres we run, and talked me out of rim flips 'cause they are more likely to hit the brakes unless they have a large off set.
He also said there's no benefit in rim flips in keeping the tyre on cause the bead lock ridge is the same on both sides. Air pressure is what mainly keeps the tyre on the rim when deflated and under stress large enough to force the bead over the ridge, and this is the same regardless of the rim being flipped or not. He also argued that narrower rims assisted the tyre to fall off by the tyre acting like a lever on the outer rim.
I left his premises wondering who is right! But decided that wider rims are probably a safer bet.
I disagree with him about narrower Vs wider though.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Not really, they design the tyres and specify rims for the best on-road performance - A wider rim will allow the tyre to handle better when cornering.Tim D wrote:I think it is as simple as looking up the tire manufactuer's spec's on rim size for the tire in question.
They build the tires and assume they test them, they design the tires to be a certain size and shape , to suit a rim of certain size and shape.
my 2 cents
Tim
4x4ing doesn't usually involve high-speed cornering...
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
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