Yes, Auto's drag more HP, as do Hi Stall convertors, the opposite is true of Low Stall convertors.
You are comparing the price for drive in drive out, compared to guys who just buy the bits, and fit it themselves. It is easy to blow a few days working on a car, even upto a week or 2, of solid work, for 1 or 2 people. 8 hours a day each, times anywhere upto $70 per hour.
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195hp Tb42 Turbo ..
Yeah i read it back to frontActually the reverse too lean down low.
Stupid me..Another thing to point out is that Mulisha hasn't gone down the "cheap road" He has spent a fair bit of $$$ getting this setup custom built for him. All he did was fit the manifold himself!
Also it seems that a lot of ppl on here think that if you go pay some1 $20,000 your automatically going to have the best setup. There is nothing wrong with going out and doing a little research, sourcing your own bits and then fitting it yourself and then saving a lot of $$$ at the same time.
GQII Patrol YAY!!
That was engine only price I still had to buy the engine would have been around the $30,000 + once I got it back did the exhaust, wiring, air system ect ect aswell as freight from MLB to BRIS.
But what a motor
Any one with a drag racing back ground would know the cost involved to gain 0.1 sec on the 1/4 is alot.
So to get back on topic do all the cheap things, snorkel, air box ect.
A good indication is drivability, have a go at couple of your mates patrols n see how it porforms, if you cant get the HP to the ground its a hinderence, The ON TRACK cars were detuned cos they where to volitile, once they hit booste they were un controlable.
You got to remember you drive a patrol not skyline
But what a motor
Any one with a drag racing back ground would know the cost involved to gain 0.1 sec on the 1/4 is alot.
So to get back on topic do all the cheap things, snorkel, air box ect.
A good indication is drivability, have a go at couple of your mates patrols n see how it porforms, if you cant get the HP to the ground its a hinderence, The ON TRACK cars were detuned cos they where to volitile, once they hit booste they were un controlable.
You got to remember you drive a patrol not skyline
He hasnt really spent a lot. I would say he has spent bugger all in the scheme of things.Jimbo wrote:
Another thing to point out is that Mulisha hasn't gone down the "cheap road" He has spent a fair bit of $$$ getting this setup custom built for him. All he did was fit the manifold himself!
Custom or not, all turbo kits need a manifold, turbo, wastegate and a pipe from the turbo to intercooler. That is as basic as it gets.
SWB mav. Some mods.
Yeah but i could have brought a log type manifold instead of tunned length manifold.dansedgli wrote:He hasnt really spent a lot. I would say he has spent bugger all in the scheme of things.Jimbo wrote:
Another thing to point out is that Mulisha hasn't gone down the "cheap road" He has spent a fair bit of $$$ getting this setup custom built for him. All he did was fit the manifold himself!
Custom or not, all turbo kits need a manifold, turbo, wastegate and a pipe from the turbo to intercooler. That is as basic as it gets.
I could have got impco gear and used that instead of the Gas Research gear.
I could have got a small cheaper external wastegate or even a internal gate instead of the 50mm gate i have.
I could have used my old 2.5" exhaust system but i choose a 3" mandrel system with a resinator.
I tryed to do it all right the first time instead of buying stuff twice.
I'm thinking pi$$ the air con off and i'm 80% sure a large front mount will fit and keep my front grill as well.
I'm just thinking is it worth the hassle of fitting a front mount cooler a 3" think one?
Can someone give me a honest oppion not "yeah will make ya car better" i want to is it really worth the trouble becuase i don't want to spend like another $800 or so and find i got a extra 10hp becuase IMHO it wouldn't be worth it!!
What/were is the best place to get cooler piping ? Would it the best if i got a length of exhaust pipe like 2.5"? Is it worth paying more for 3" pipe or is 2.5" fine? Will mild steel pipe work fine?
Also with doing the piping would it be hard if i have a drop saw and mig welder and grinder etc to cut the pipe at certain angles then weld them together and then just use silcon bends to go on the intercooler and turbo and throttle body etc?
Or should i pay someone to weld the pipes up? Wouldn't mind trying myself becuase i need to save money now..
What do you suggest ? Don't wanna spend a fourtune on piping if i don't need to so cheaper ways?
Thanks alot guys!
And this may sounds very very dumn but could someone quickly explain how a intercooler hooks up.
Rick.
This is the coolers i'm looking at:
Can get these sizes:
600-300-80 $165 plus freight
600-300-100 $255 plus freight
450-300-80 $165 plus freight
This is kinda my personal choice (below) only reaon becuase there were more sold then the other.
450x 300x 76mm $160
or
600x300x76mm $160
600x300x100mm's are also available, but are $260 each.
Postage $30.
What do u reakon any good?
Rick.
Can get these sizes:
600-300-80 $165 plus freight
600-300-100 $255 plus freight
450-300-80 $165 plus freight
This is kinda my personal choice (below) only reaon becuase there were more sold then the other.
450x 300x 76mm $160
or
600x300x76mm $160
600x300x100mm's are also available, but are $260 each.
Postage $30.
What do u reakon any good?
Rick.
Cooler piping is a piece of cake. You only need a drop saw and a cheap welder.
If you cant weld that great tack it together and take it to an exhaust shop to get welded properly.
Buy the mandrel bends from an exhaust shop. Plan what you will need, and buy the bends and straight peices. 90 degree 3 inch bends are around $20 each. An exhaust shop will charge bugger all to weld it properly. I got charged $30 bucks to get my piping welded properly.
For under 250rwkw an ebay cooler will be fine and will make a difference as you can run more boost and more timing due to a cooler intake charge.
Cooler/Denser air = more power. You dont need a $1000+ cooler on a 200rwkw car.
You should be able to do it for under $400.
Buy the cooler that fits the best.
FYI heaps of guys on the Xr6turbo forum are making over 300rwkw with a "ethnic person cooler" which is just a 450 * 300 * 75mm cheap core with end tanks to suit the xr6.
I paid $200 for my hybrid 450 * 300 * 75 cooler. I sold my 2nd hand 600 * 300 * 100 core for $70 just last week.
As someone else said as well, dont be so hung up on power figures. It is a 2 ton 4wd afterall. If it is twice as nice to drive then it is probably pretty good.
I would be stoked with that much power in my Maverick.
If you cant weld that great tack it together and take it to an exhaust shop to get welded properly.
Buy the mandrel bends from an exhaust shop. Plan what you will need, and buy the bends and straight peices. 90 degree 3 inch bends are around $20 each. An exhaust shop will charge bugger all to weld it properly. I got charged $30 bucks to get my piping welded properly.
For under 250rwkw an ebay cooler will be fine and will make a difference as you can run more boost and more timing due to a cooler intake charge.
Cooler/Denser air = more power. You dont need a $1000+ cooler on a 200rwkw car.
You should be able to do it for under $400.
Buy the cooler that fits the best.
FYI heaps of guys on the Xr6turbo forum are making over 300rwkw with a "ethnic person cooler" which is just a 450 * 300 * 75mm cheap core with end tanks to suit the xr6.
I paid $200 for my hybrid 450 * 300 * 75 cooler. I sold my 2nd hand 600 * 300 * 100 core for $70 just last week.
As someone else said as well, dont be so hung up on power figures. It is a 2 ton 4wd afterall. If it is twice as nice to drive then it is probably pretty good.
I would be stoked with that much power in my Maverick.
SWB mav. Some mods.
dansedgli wrote:Cooler piping is a piece of cake. You only need a drop saw and a cheap welder.
If you cant weld that great tack it together and take it to an exhaust shop to get welded properly.
Buy the mandrel bends from an exhaust shop. Plan what you will need, and buy the bends and straight peices. 90 degree 3 inch bends are around $20 each. An exhaust shop will charge bugger all to weld it properly. I got charged $30 bucks to get my piping welded properly.
For under 250rwkw an ebay cooler will be fine and will make a difference as you can run more boost and more timing due to a cooler intake charge.
Cooler/Denser air = more power. You dont need a $1000+ cooler on a 200rwkw car.
You should be able to do it for under $400.
Buy the cooler that fits the best.
FYI heaps of guys on the Xr6turbo forum are making over 300rwkw with a "ethnic person cooler" which is just a 450 * 300 * 75mm cheap core with end tanks to suit the xr6.
I paid $200 for my hybrid 450 * 300 * 75 cooler. I sold my 2nd hand 600 * 300 * 100 core for $70 just last week.
Thanks alot mate for that so u think 3" pipe is the way to go becuase i was scared it was going to cost around the same price as my exhaust lol..
my inlet temp on the dyno was 56 degrees and the hot days we have had here i reakon it would be easily 65 degrees!
One thing i have thought about though my car has just had a dyno tune will it need another tune now once the cooler is fitted? And becuase they have had to lathe the jet or something (they told me) will i be up for another jet or something? What do i do in this situation?
Cheers
Rick.
Yeah a new tune would help your power output and you want to make sure its not leaning out.
Put an airbox or some heatshielding to help with the heat. A snorkel would work good.
2.5 inch piping will be fine for your cooler but the cheaper coolers have 3 inch inlets and outlets so you will need silicone reducers to match.
My cooler piping is 2.5 inch on the turbo side as it matches the compressor outlet and 3 inch on the throttle body side as it matches the throttle body.
Put an airbox or some heatshielding to help with the heat. A snorkel would work good.
2.5 inch piping will be fine for your cooler but the cheaper coolers have 3 inch inlets and outlets so you will need silicone reducers to match.
My cooler piping is 2.5 inch on the turbo side as it matches the compressor outlet and 3 inch on the throttle body side as it matches the throttle body.
SWB mav. Some mods.
I have one reducer for the turbo already and yeah my throttle body is 3".
Were is the best place for those silcon bends becuase supercheap have them Monza ones but i don't want to use them if there shit..
may i ask why i would need mandrel bends becuase i'm hopping to be able to flip the intercooler above so that the outlet and inlet are up the top.
I already have a couple of silcon bends but one thing i was thinking was i might cut the pipe i already have up and get that welded in the new piping somewere becuase it has some pipe off my converter going to it and my BOV is fitted in there.
You can see what i mean in the pic below but now i have a BOV mounted in the black pipe above my rocker cover.
Would u mind explaining what piping goes were like inlet and outlet on the intercooler and were that black pipe will go etc.
Also how much is 3" mild steel pipe becuase i might use 3" because i don't need reducers except one that i already have and 3" would be better i think.
Cheers
Rick.
Be online later on going out for a couple hrs.
Were is the best place for those silcon bends becuase supercheap have them Monza ones but i don't want to use them if there shit..
may i ask why i would need mandrel bends becuase i'm hopping to be able to flip the intercooler above so that the outlet and inlet are up the top.
I already have a couple of silcon bends but one thing i was thinking was i might cut the pipe i already have up and get that welded in the new piping somewere becuase it has some pipe off my converter going to it and my BOV is fitted in there.
You can see what i mean in the pic below but now i have a BOV mounted in the black pipe above my rocker cover.
Would u mind explaining what piping goes were like inlet and outlet on the intercooler and were that black pipe will go etc.
Also how much is 3" mild steel pipe becuase i might use 3" because i don't need reducers except one that i already have and 3" would be better i think.
Cheers
Rick.
Be online later on going out for a couple hrs.
yeah will make ya car betterCan someone give me a honest oppion not "yeah will make ya car better" i want to is it really worth the trouble becuase i don't want to spend like another $800 or so and find i got a extra 10hp becuase IMHO it wouldn't be worth it!!
i'll say it again, spend hours trawling ricer forums and you will understand why you need a cooler, there's alot more to it than that extra 10hp
(the words hand grenade come to mind) high intake temps = pre-ignition = $$$$
Welcome to the world of playing cars, you might make several trips to the tuners and spend lots of money playing with jet sizes all to find out the 2nd set you tryed was the best combo your gunna getOne thing i have thought about though my car has just had a dyno tune will it need another tune now once the cooler is fitted? And becuase they have had to lathe the jet or something (they told me) will i be up for another jet or something? What do i do in this situation?
Simon
intercooler piping; run the same size pipe as the turbo outlet to the cooler then run the size of the throttle body from the cooler to the intake. thats a money saving way of doing it, some will disagree but it works and most of the huge horsepower ricers run their set ups like this.
good luck dude, 195 at the tredlies is still a ShortyIQ nice punch in the revs.
good luck dude, 195 at the tredlies is still a ShortyIQ nice punch in the revs.
turbos are nice but i'd rather be blown
mulisha..... all the bends you need, the silicone ones, spf brand... used them for my old setup.. from ARE in brendale... northside brissie.
Eliteforce Heavy Fabrication
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^^^^chunderlicious wrote:intercooler piping; run the same size pipe as the turbo outlet to the cooler then run the size of the throttle body from the cooler to the intake. thats a money saving way of doing it, some will disagree but it works and most of the huge horsepower ricers run their set ups like this.
good luck dude, 195 at the tredlies is still a ShortyIQ nice punch in the revs.
What he said
Short GQ, Petrol, Turbo.
GQ TD42 ute
GQ TD42 ute
I haven't piped up yet, but having gone through a build up of a supercharged efi shorty i know what you are going through. I started with no snorkel and pod filter under the bonnet near exhaust manifold, had around 90rwkw on 33's, installed 2 gu bonnet scoops, stainless mandrel snorkel and airbox and it went up to around 100rwkw. 600 x 300 x 76 mm PWR front mount Intercooler and new dyno tune power went up to around 140rwkw on 33's. So if you want small improvements do the snorkel and heat wrap but the biggest improvement was with a good quality front mount and some nice flowing pipework. I got rid of my aircon and she fits in between the radiator and grill no need for a cop bait looking intercooler haning off the front.
Rob
Rob
Thanks alot guys!
Tuffrangie i was going through some pics of ya car on Nissan patrol forum last night trying to see in ur pics how u fitted the intercooler..
I don't really want to spend $800 on a intercooler i think i do some more research and look at something a little cheaper.
I was looking at mild steel for my pipe work but someone said it may rust i didn't really think of that..
Thanks alot guys
I might look at fabing up a some sort of air box and heat shields this week and just think about the intercooler for a little and gather more research and not jump into the deep end and then have to spill another couple of grand on tunning and intercooler and piping and different wastegate spring and decomp plate etc..
Cheers
Rick.
Tuffrangie i was going through some pics of ya car on Nissan patrol forum last night trying to see in ur pics how u fitted the intercooler..
I don't really want to spend $800 on a intercooler i think i do some more research and look at something a little cheaper.
I was looking at mild steel for my pipe work but someone said it may rust i didn't really think of that..
Thanks alot guys
I might look at fabing up a some sort of air box and heat shields this week and just think about the intercooler for a little and gather more research and not jump into the deep end and then have to spill another couple of grand on tunning and intercooler and piping and different wastegate spring and decomp plate etc..
Cheers
Rick.
search for some replies from awill4x4 on the cheap IC's on ebay.. theres a reason they are cheap. Andrew knows his shit, he makes them.Mulisha wrote:I don't really want to spend $800 on a intercooler i think i do some more research and look at something a little cheaper..
You dont need to spend $1000's but you have gone this far, dont go jew on it now for a few weeks more saving.... do it right, do it once as you have so far.
Very true.bogged wrote:search for some replies from awill4x4 on the cheap IC's on ebay.. theres a reason they are cheap. Andrew knows his shit, he makes them.Mulisha wrote:I don't really want to spend $800 on a intercooler i think i do some more research and look at something a little cheaper..
You dont need to spend $1000's but you have gone this far, dont go jew on it now for a few weeks more saving.... do it right, do it once as you have so far.
I don't know enough about intercoolers at this stage that's why i thought there wouldn't be a big difference between the ebay one and the pwr one for a 4wd.
Cheers
Rick.
www.are.com.au ... have a read.
like everything, there is good and bad.
like everything, there is good and bad.
Heaps of info on intercoolers:
http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm
Info on Chinese ones 3/4 of the way down
Do it right the first time dude! My inlet is on the drivers side and outlet passenger, the cooler is mounted upside down. Mild steel should be fine just paint or powdercoat it preferably
Edit-Beat me to it with the link bogged
http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm
Info on Chinese ones 3/4 of the way down
Do it right the first time dude! My inlet is on the drivers side and outlet passenger, the cooler is mounted upside down. Mild steel should be fine just paint or powdercoat it preferably
Edit-Beat me to it with the link bogged
you can fit an I/C in front of the A/c if you remove the brace from the bonnet latch to the bottom of the rad support then gring the back side of the grill away. My GQ ute has a Safari front mount cooler fitted this was n has done 250,000km like this with no cracks
If you get onto the Safari 4x4 engineering site it gives performance gains for the 4.2 deisel with same turbo jus non i/c vs ic, gives a rough guide
If you get onto the Safari 4x4 engineering site it gives performance gains for the 4.2 deisel with same turbo jus non i/c vs ic, gives a rough guide
I think MudRhino is right, that is a great amount of power mate. I have a 1JZ soarer and have been playing around with the setup for years, you should seriously consider lowering the AFR to around 12-12.5, I would go out and buy a GTR cooler, and most important of all make sure you shroud it so all the air has to go in the cooler (otherwise the efficiency goes out the window).
Can you convert to EFI? If you can that would be the go. Then you wont have to worry about jets, you can just mod the AFR with an SAFC2 or something to the like... something to consider anyways..
Can you convert to EFI? If you can that would be the go. Then you wont have to worry about jets, you can just mod the AFR with an SAFC2 or something to the like... something to consider anyways..
88 GQ SWB, 33's and the basics.
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