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80 series electric window problem
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series electric window problem
Tried searching but couldnt find anything. Just noticed today that my DS rear window won't wind down. First tried with the master switch and then with the rear window switch. Nothing happenes, last time I used this window there wasnt a problem. So wheres a good place to start looking for the problem?
80 Series forum
www.offroad80s.com
www.offroad80s.com
i assume all other windows work right?
as my manual (and car) aren't here i'll make a couple of generalizations. with it refusing to work from master switch and the door mounted switch i reckon it'll be the actual window motor, dc wiring to motor, sense circuit to tell it has got all way up/down or run into something. can you convince it to work by pressing switch and gently pushing glass to get it going? i really think you'll need to pull the door trim off and start poking around
good luck with it
Bluey
as my manual (and car) aren't here i'll make a couple of generalizations. with it refusing to work from master switch and the door mounted switch i reckon it'll be the actual window motor, dc wiring to motor, sense circuit to tell it has got all way up/down or run into something. can you convince it to work by pressing switch and gently pushing glass to get it going? i really think you'll need to pull the door trim off and start poking around
good luck with it
Bluey
You can pull the door trim off and find the plug that goes directly to the motor this should have 2 wires, if you connect these wires directly to a battery the motor should wind up or down, if at first it doesn't move swap the wires from posative to negative. If the window still doesn't move you need to replace the motor. ( good luck fault finding ) [quote][/quote]
this trick often helps when convincing window to close when it starts to slow down.shanegtr wrote:Nothing happens with a gentle push of the window
do as Dents suggested, but i would also check if 12v is getting to the motor as well. you don't want to replace the motor if the fault is a broken wire or a dodgey connector
I wouldn't be in a hurry to pull the motor appart until you've eliminated all the other options.
The wiring that goes from the body to the door is constantly being worked (bent) every time the door is opened and closed. Often this wiring breaks internally without breaking the outer clastic cover.
You'll need to use a multi meter to test the continuity of the wires into the door.
The wiring that goes from the body to the door is constantly being worked (bent) every time the door is opened and closed. Often this wiring breaks internally without breaking the outer clastic cover.
You'll need to use a multi meter to test the continuity of the wires into the door.
Pete. R.
Pete, thats possible, but improbable, all the problems ive heard of with windows come from the motor or a switch. Best next step would be to multi the plug to the motor to see if power is there, but to do that, the door comes appart. Power equals motor, no power equals wiring.maverick_sr71 wrote:I wouldn't be in a hurry to pull the motor appart until you've eliminated all the other options.
The wiring that goes from the body to the door is constantly being worked (bent) every time the door is opened and closed. Often this wiring breaks internally without breaking the outer clastic cover.
You'll need to use a multi meter to test the continuity of the wires into the door.
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