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popping back window
Moderator: Micka
popping back window
Well on another note, has anyone had the problem of the back window popping open. I have tried cleaning and adjusting the locking mechanism, but it started happening again. I have now just removed the struts, but when it opens it lets the dust come in. Has anyone had any success in fixing this problem
I take it youre talking about a classic Rangie??
I had the same problum on the one I had. Ended up bying new rubbers for it from the U.K.
Still didnt fix it to my satisfation but was signficantly better. So I ended up buying a second thinner rubber to go on the glass section from the local ruber bloke and that did fix it.
Jees I wish I never sold that car some lucky bugger got it Cairns now
I had the same problum on the one I had. Ended up bying new rubbers for it from the U.K.
Still didnt fix it to my satisfation but was signficantly better. So I ended up buying a second thinner rubber to go on the glass section from the local ruber bloke and that did fix it.
Jees I wish I never sold that car some lucky bugger got it Cairns now
For Kart racing information please visit our site at www.auskart.net
The old 2 door we had used to have rotating plates mounted on the rear pillars with wingnuts to lock them down, which spun around to hold the rear hatch shut.
Beyond that.... Clean and lube is about the only thing I can suggest - mine still needs to have a hand slamming it on the RH side for it to catch properly, I think its due to the wear of the striker plates and locking mechanism.
Beyond that.... Clean and lube is about the only thing I can suggest - mine still needs to have a hand slamming it on the RH side for it to catch properly, I think its due to the wear of the striker plates and locking mechanism.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Popping open is just wear in the latches.
The latches depend on a right angle being present inside to remain latched.
Inside there is a plate, which the rod is attached to. As the edges of the plate wear over the years the latch slips open. This is exacerbated if the rods are overadjusted.
New latches were about $90 each last time I bought them.
They will fix the problem for another 10 -15 years.
If you want to try and weld them and grind to a new angle , you are welcome to try. Its all obvious when you open them up.
Regards Philip A
The latches depend on a right angle being present inside to remain latched.
Inside there is a plate, which the rod is attached to. As the edges of the plate wear over the years the latch slips open. This is exacerbated if the rods are overadjusted.
New latches were about $90 each last time I bought them.
They will fix the problem for another 10 -15 years.
If you want to try and weld them and grind to a new angle , you are welcome to try. Its all obvious when you open them up.
Regards Philip A
Re: popping back window
I have a upper tailgate for sale it's from a 93 rangie and has never pooped open me.oops wrote:Well on another note, has anyone had the problem of the back window popping open. I have tried cleaning and adjusting the locking mechanism, but it started happening again. I have now just removed the struts, but when it opens it lets the dust come in. Has anyone had any success in fixing this problem
You can have the upper tailgate and the struts and all the locking plates etc for 60 buks!
I am in East Malvern
PM if you interested
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
^^^^^^ Guy's got the right idea. The original mounting points for the upper tailgate are always working against the tailgate and trying to force it open. Fit a vertical strut kit which eliminates this problem and aside from your struts having an extended life, and assuming that your locking mechanisms are all working okay, you will never have this problem again. You also won't get s#$tloads of dust in through the seal when driving on dusty roads because the tailgate is actually being pulled closed and not pushed away from the lower tailgate.Hobie18 wrote:you used to be able to get a kit to swap the struts around so it actually pulls to window closed, ie it is attached to the car closer to the lower tailgate and attaches to the window closer to the roof.
TD 80 Series, F&R Lockers, Winch etc
Simo63 wrote:^^^^^^ Guy's got the right idea. The original mounting points for the upper tailgate are always working against the tailgate and trying to force it open. Fit a vertical strut kit which eliminates this problem and aside from your struts having an extended life, and assuming that your locking mechanisms are all working okay, you will never have this problem again. You also won't get s#$tloads of dust in through the seal when driving on dusty roads because the tailgate is actually being pulled closed and not pushed away from the lower tailgate.Hobie18 wrote:you used to be able to get a kit to swap the struts around so it actually pulls to window closed, ie it is attached to the car closer to the lower tailgate and attaches to the window closer to the roof.
Sounds good! Details please, photos, dimensions, etc,
yep! I can attest to that!
Also being the later model it has the central locking actuator, better seals and the built in rear tail-light! Just make sure if you do a change over to a 2 door that the connection brackets that the locking actuator click into are changed over at the same time. Everything else is same same.
Thanks for your help Mick. PM me your email and I will send you the tray pics!
Cheers.
Also being the later model it has the central locking actuator, better seals and the built in rear tail-light! Just make sure if you do a change over to a 2 door that the connection brackets that the locking actuator click into are changed over at the same time. Everything else is same same.
Thanks for your help Mick. PM me your email and I will send you the tray pics!
Cheers.
Take me to the Bush!
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