Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
break bleeding
Moderator: Micka
break bleeding
hello all i'm new to the site and as you might have gessed i need help straight away lol i'm trying to bleed the breaks on my 1979 2 dr range rover does any one have a sequence to do them in please?? the front ones have 3 bleed nip's each!!the back's have 2 nip's each ahhhhhhhelp plezase thank's in advance
oil light
many thanks rangie and nairbo, for such a quick reply will be doing them tomorrow cheers
i've a nother problem now oil light won't go off! have just done full service oil filter etc, have run the engine for a couple of min's twice now but light still on i'm worried about runnin it again till i get the haynes manual i've just ordered but this could take up to a week any ideas as to what it could be would be a gr8 help cheers .
i've a nother problem now oil light won't go off! have just done full service oil filter etc, have run the engine for a couple of min's twice now but light still on i'm worried about runnin it again till i get the haynes manual i've just ordered but this could take up to a week any ideas as to what it could be would be a gr8 help cheers .
Re: oil light
Make sure you didnt knock the wire off the sensor on the engine.shiftit wrote:many thanks rangie and nairbo, for such a quick reply will be doing them tomorrow cheers
i've a nother problem now oil light won't go off! have just done full service oil filter etc, have run the engine for a couple of min's twice now but light still on i'm worried about runnin it again till i get the haynes manual i've just ordered but this could take up to a week any ideas as to what it could be would be a gr8 help cheers .
For Kart racing information please visit our site at www.auskart.net
The other thing it could be is all the oil draining out of the pump and it can't prime itself, especially if you didn't fill the new filter with oil before fitting. Others on this forum are more familiar with the fix for this. Involves packing the pump with vaseline. I wouldn't drive it until you've got it sorted.
cheers, DL
cheers, DL
Hi,
Couldn't really say. Remember it might just be a loose sensor wire as someone has said. I once bought an 81 RR with a 3.5 for parts and body and drove it 200km home with the oil light coming on at idle. Bit rattly but went OK.
Haynes shows oil pressure warning light switch wire (white with brown trace) coming off sensor right near where filter goes on pump. You should also have an oil pressure gauge on the dash that runs off a separate sensor somewhere on top of the motor. Wire is light green with brown trace. What is the gauge reading?
cheers, DL
Couldn't really say. Remember it might just be a loose sensor wire as someone has said. I once bought an 81 RR with a 3.5 for parts and body and drove it 200km home with the oil light coming on at idle. Bit rattly but went OK.
Haynes shows oil pressure warning light switch wire (white with brown trace) coming off sensor right near where filter goes on pump. You should also have an oil pressure gauge on the dash that runs off a separate sensor somewhere on top of the motor. Wire is light green with brown trace. What is the gauge reading?
cheers, DL
many thanks to all of you for your help and advice got the problems sorted now and she runs like a dream again... no damage at all thankfully you were on the money DL, the pump needed filling with vasaleen and the breaks...................well what can i say,i'm a plonker i left one of the rear nipples undone!!! hence it wouldent bleed!!! any hoo all's good now cheers to everyone again
now i've just got to work out how to post a pickie for you all to see,
now i've just got to work out how to post a pickie for you all to see,
just fill the filter with oil before fitting, you should only need to prime the pump with vas if you pull the pump and timing cover off otherwise your pump is stuffed. The 1 man brake bleed method i have perfected is a small glass coffee jar with lid, 1 meter of clear tube, sit the bottle as high as possible (on inner guard or rear tyre is good) half fill the bottle with fluid then just open the nipple and pump pedal a few times till you see all the bubbles rise out. took me 15 mins on my own to do all 4 calipers.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
I use a Gunson EeziBleed to bleed my brakes.
it connects to your spare and you use the 20psi or so to force new fluid thru the system.
No pumping or airlocks.
Do a search on the UK ebay site for Eezibleed. They are not a bad price landed in Oz.
Clarkie
it connects to your spare and you use the 20psi or so to force new fluid thru the system.
No pumping or airlocks.
Do a search on the UK ebay site for Eezibleed. They are not a bad price landed in Oz.
Clarkie
1986 County, Auto, Locker, Maxi Crawler gears.
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests