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break bleeding

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Posts: 24
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Location: cairns

break bleeding

Post by shiftit »

:lol: hello all i'm new to the site and as you might have gessed i need help straight away lol :oops: i'm trying to bleed the breaks on my 1979 2 dr range rover does any one have a sequence to do them in please?? the front ones have 3 bleed nip's each!!the back's have 2 nip's each ahhhhhhhelp plezase :lol: thank's in advance ;)
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Post by 6.5 rangie »

Search on here, their has been plenty of write ups on bleeding
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Post by nairbo »

Start at the longest line first , Rear Left, then rear right ,the front you do all 3 on one side at the same time, front left, then 3 on the other side, front right
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oil light

Post by shiftit »

many thanks rangie and nairbo, for such a quick reply will be doing them tomorrow cheers :D
i've a nother problem now :oops: oil light won't go off! have just done full service oil filter etc, have run the engine for a couple of min's twice now but light still on :? i'm worried about runnin it again till i get the haynes manual i've just ordered but this could take up to a week :cry: any ideas as to what it could be would be a gr8 help :) cheers . ;)
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Re: oil light

Post by muddydigger »

shiftit wrote:many thanks rangie and nairbo, for such a quick reply will be doing them tomorrow cheers :D
i've a nother problem now :oops: oil light won't go off! have just done full service oil filter etc, have run the engine for a couple of min's twice now but light still on :? i'm worried about runnin it again till i get the haynes manual i've just ordered but this could take up to a week :cry: any ideas as to what it could be would be a gr8 help :) cheers . ;)
Make sure you didnt knock the wire off the sensor on the engine.
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sensor

Post by shiftit »

cheers muddigger :lol: where is the sensor on the engine???
DL
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Post by DL »

The other thing it could be is all the oil draining out of the pump and it can't prime itself, especially if you didn't fill the new filter with oil before fitting. Others on this forum are more familiar with the fix for this. Involves packing the pump with vaseline. I wouldn't drive it until you've got it sorted.

cheers, DL
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Post by shiftit »

cheers DL do you think i would have done much damage to it by running it a few times :roll:
DL
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Post by DL »

Hi,

Couldn't really say. Remember it might just be a loose sensor wire as someone has said. I once bought an 81 RR with a 3.5 for parts and body and drove it 200km home with the oil light coming on at idle. Bit rattly but went OK.

Haynes shows oil pressure warning light switch wire (white with brown trace) coming off sensor right near where filter goes on pump. You should also have an oil pressure gauge on the dash that runs off a separate sensor somewhere on top of the motor. Wire is light green with brown trace. What is the gauge reading?

cheers, DL
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Post by KiwiBacon »

Buy a brake bleeding kit with a check-valve in it.

They're worth gold when bleeding rangie brakes.
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Post by shiftit »

:D many thanks to all of you for your help and advice :D :lol: got the problems sorted now and she runs like a dream again... no damage at all thankfully :P you were on the money DL, the pump needed filling with vasaleen :armsup: and the breaks...................well what can i say,i'm a plonker :oops: i left one of the rear nipples undone!!! hence it wouldent bleed!!! any hoo all's good now cheers to everyone again :D :D :D

now i've just got to work out how to post a pickie for you all to see, ;)
DL
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Post by DL »

Hi,

I think there is some trick to prevent the prob you had with the pump on the 3.5 - like filling the new filter with oil before fitting? Someone on here will know for sure. I have a Chev in mine and can't say for sure.

cheers, DL
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Post by cpmurray »

I drain and fill the sump before I change the filter, since I started doing that, I've had no problems with having to re prime the oil pump.
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Post by Loanrangie »

just fill the filter with oil before fitting, you should only need to prime the pump with vas if you pull the pump and timing cover off otherwise your pump is stuffed. The 1 man brake bleed method i have perfected is a small glass coffee jar with lid, 1 meter of clear tube, sit the bottle as high as possible (on inner guard or rear tyre is good) half fill the bottle with fluid then just open the nipple and pump pedal a few times till you see all the bubbles rise out. took me 15 mins on my own to do all 4 calipers.
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Post by sclarke7171 »

I use a Gunson EeziBleed to bleed my brakes.
it connects to your spare and you use the 20psi or so to force new fluid thru the system.
No pumping or airlocks.
Image

Do a search on the UK ebay site for Eezibleed. They are not a bad price landed in Oz.

Clarkie
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Post by KiwiBacon »

If you're having endless trouble bleeding, the master cylinder may need work.
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