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Done to death

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

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Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Done to death

Post by youngyNHpaj »

Hey all been newby here, I know this topic has been done to death but I'm after a step by step guide for body lifting a Nh paj with pictures. I know theres one on the very last page of this board and I've searched as well but all the links are dead, if any one could point me in the right direction that would be good. :lol:
Cheers. Ash
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 7:01 pm
Location: woodford, QLD

Post by abauer01 »

hey youngyNHpaj welcome to outer .. i done my body lift the other weekend (2") it was very easy .. this is how i did it ..
STEP 1: got to all body mounts and undid the bolts ..
STEP 2: remove rear bumper, there are tabs that stick out from the body that get hooked on the bumper
STEP 3: i used a jack which was a bit of a f*** around but it does the job, i jacked up the front and put the front 2 mounts in, these 2 are probly the hardest i had to remove the pipeing to get to the one on the air box side and on the other side i got it from undernear through the wheel well
STEP 3: i then jacked up the back and put the other 6 mounts in
STEP 4: tightened up all the bolts and put the floor back together took about 3,4 hours
ohh and the plastic cover around the fan hit on the fan aswell i just removed it and it was all good ..
another thing that i did was move my front bumper up and forward about 50mm so it sits in a good position compared yo my wheel well .. i done this by just putting the bolt from the bottom hole into the spot um the top then made a plate up to make it a bit stronger ..
Also the transfer lever hits when putting it into 2wd i just modified the body of the car with a hammer and grinder best way is to take the gear lever out and bend the stick... with the lift i can fit my 33" claws under easy and it looks way better .. if i have missed something just let me know .. unfortunately i dont have any pics
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by youngyNHpaj »

^^ Cheers for the reply mate I have a bull bar as well and have been told its a bit of a mission to re-install after the lift, is this true?
Also is there a need to get engineer certificate as I'll have 65mm suspension lift as well soon.
thanks again.
:D Ash
Posts: 14209
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 am
Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

Pull brake lines through the guard as you lift.

Loosen the clamp on the steering shaft - it moves a little way as you lift.

Have a look at mud flaps and fuel filler hose.

I recommend one side at a time - leaves the body sitting on four points (shorty) or 6 points (LWB) at all times, instead of only two points.

Edit:
youngyNHpaj wrote:Also is there a need to get engineer certificate as I'll have 65mm suspension lift as well soon.
thanks again.
:D Ash
In Queensland, body lifts must be inspected by DOT. Call them before you start, as there's dance steps to perform. It's not as hard as it sounds.
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by youngyNHpaj »

-Scott- wrote:Pull brake lines through the guard as you lift.

Loosen the clamp on the steering shaft - it moves a little way as you lift.

Have a look at mud flaps and fuel filler hose.

I recommend one side at a time - leaves the body sitting on four points (shorty) or 6 points (LWB) at all times, instead of only two points.
Hey scott, so is it easier to lift side to side rather than front to back?
Also any suggestions for what to use instead of high lift jack?
Posts: 14209
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 am
Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

youngyNHpaj wrote:Hey scott, so is it easier to lift side to side rather than front to back?
Also any suggestions for what to use instead of high lift jack?
Pretty simple. From memory, I borrowed a pair of vehicle ramps then set up a couple of jacks on blocks of wood - standard bottle jack & a small trolley jack.

Don't forget more wood on top, to avoid punching through the floor.
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by youngyNHpaj »

^^cool thanks. will post pictures when its done.
Posts: 51
Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 10:13 pm
Location: East London, South Africa

Post by 4ePajero »

Gen1 & Gen2 are very similar.

Read a how-to here:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat. ... art=1&vc=1
1989 LWB Exceed
3.2 DiD
5-spd manual & SuperSelect
2" body lift
33" Bridgestone D694 ATs
Front Runner Roof Rack
Bilstein Shocks
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Actually I found a copy of Dave's Gen 2 50mm body lift article.
It's available as a PDF download on the original FAQ link.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by youngyNHpaj »

Awesome bitsamissan, just what I was after. I'm getting the lift kit off on boost engineering for $180 for 12 blocks and all new bolts and washers etc.
What do you guys reckon. I looked at that rockcrawler kits but couldn't be stuffed waiting for it to be shipped over.
Cheers.
Ash.
Posts: 90
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 2:18 pm
Location: Brizvegas

Post by Mechz »

So I finally did my lift last week.

Still a few loose ends to tie up like:

*Extending the fuel hose bracket so the fuel hose doesn't slip off (I forgot about this one and got to the fuel station and started paying to fuel up the concrete floor)

*Drilling a bit of steel plate to reinforce the top section of the rear bumper as I've cut off the bottom centre section

*Refitting the mudflaps and properly securing the rear corner body flairs as the mounting holes don't line up properly

*Resealing the gear lever hole with some rubber to stop the noise and other elements from getting in the cabin

*Clean out the copious amounts of sand I found under the passenger floor where the body mount bolt is located


Overall it was pretty easy to put the lift blocks in but it's all the other shit that you have to do that makes this a real bitch of a job. The lever was probably the most challenging part for me because I bent it a bit but it started to crack so I had to do a little floor & console cutting/bending.
92' NH Pajero SWB 3.0 V6
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by youngyNHpaj »

Hey mechz, did you use aluminium or plastic blocks? How long did it take you. And last of all how'd you mod the fuel cap?
Cheers.Ash
Posts: 90
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 2:18 pm
Location: Brizvegas

Post by Mechz »

Plastic/urathane blocks. Kinda like the stuff they make those plastic headed hammers out of but more rigid. My dad got it from a bearing company in Bundaberg and got my brother to put it on the lathe.

I took about 4 days because my dad was working until about 4pm so I could only do so much without his help.

For the fuel filler I have just unbolted the bracket at the moment and streched the pipe up and reclamped it onto the filler neck. Not the best solution but I was in a hurry on Saturday arvo.

The bolts and blocks set me back about $90 all up.
92' NH Pajero SWB 3.0 V6
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