Diif Noise (?)

[hjsixty]

My 60 has developed a noise which sounds like its coming from the diff (?)

Rattely vibration occurs under engine braking in the lower gears. Although I have noticed it in 5th on the odd occasion.

Now, as far as I can tell its coming from the diff....

Would this mean my diff is R/S???

If it is, what is the best option.

Get Reconditioned (I imagine quite expensive)

Buy a whole Diff center from the wreckers (what would i expect to pay?)

Any information would be helpful. Thanks

[dow50r]

start by dropping the oil...if steel comes out...get worried and start saving...if the oil is clean, put in new and see if the noise goes away. look at universal joints aswell...maybe ask someone who is a mechanic to check your shafts and do the diff oils...

[dogbreath_48]

"Rattely vibration" sounds like the noise i had under exactly the same conditions. I was packing darkies 'cos i'd only recently had the diff rebuilt.

Turned out it was the clamps on the leaf springs rattling Fixed it by jamming some junk mail in the gaps Try to eliminate anything like this before pulling the diff!

[hjsixty]

took me car to diff place today...

experts had a nosey...

pinion bearings have collapsed they tell me.

$1200 for reconditioned diff.

suppose i'll have to look at replacing pinion bearings.

or just pick up a second hand unit...

rang up a bloke in Brisbane who is wrecking a 75 series - he wants to charge me $250 for a dif center. I think its a bit much considering ebay centers are going for about $125. think i might offer him $150...

what do yas reckon????

[DR Frankenstine]

$250 sounds pretty fair at least you can see what you are getting and have some comeback if anything is wrong with it

[Shadow]

Exact same thing happened to my hj60, mines an 89 done 420thousand.

big vibration on engine braking, not so much noise accelerating.

Wreckers all want about $250+ (toyotamart wanted $375 ffs)

i ended up getting mine recoed for about $400 i think. At least then ya get a warranty and the diff should be good for another 400k, with a second hand diff, it might only last 50k, wreckers only give 3mnth warranty.

[Cruza62]

Another issue is the collapsable shim thing inside the pinion housing, when you change the pinion seal the big ass nut has to be undone therefore releasing the shim only to be replaced by a lovely genuine toyota one!! My 62 has needed one since I've owned it (50k ago).
Oh wot a feelin...

[Shadow]

Another issue is the collapsable shim thing inside the pinion housing, when you change the pinion seal the big ass nut has to be undone therefore releasing the shim only to be replaced by a lovely genuine toyota one!! My 62 has needed one since I've owned it (50k ago).
Oh wot a feelin...

is the shim expensive?

doesnt look too fancy to me, just a pressed up bit of tube, or am i missing something.

[Modified Toy]

Another issue is the collapsable shim thing inside the pinion housing, when you change the pinion seal the big ass nut has to be undone therefore releasing the shim only to be replaced by a lovely genuine toyota one!! My 62 has needed one since I've owned it (50k ago).
Oh wot a feelin...

is the shim expensive?

doesnt look too fancy to me, just a pressed up bit of tube, or am i missing something.

The collapsable spacer is not to fancy but the pinion bearings rely on the correct preload to survive some yota's had a solid spacer in this position also

[Shadow]

Another issue is the collapsable shim thing inside the pinion housing, when you change the pinion seal the big ass nut has to be undone therefore releasing the shim only to be replaced by a lovely genuine toyota one!! My 62 has needed one since I've owned it (50k ago).
Oh wot a feelin...

is the shim expensive?

doesnt look too fancy to me, just a pressed up bit of tube, or am i missing something.

The collapsable spacer is not to fancy but the pinion bearings rely on the correct preload to survive some yota's had a solid spacer in this position also

yeh i realise the shim is used to make sure the pinion bearings are not over torqued, but if its only like $10, why wouldnt ya just fix ya pinion seal and be done with it.

[fj45iris]

the collapsable spacer is about 20 bucks and seal about 4 bucks, but to do it right u have to use a spring gauge to check how much drag is on the bearings and there is a measurement of force applicable , to do the dodgy way requires a rattlegun and a good feel of assiness.

[Sic Lux]

If just doing pinion seal why not mark the shaft,nut and drive flange do seal and then doit up to exactly the same spot done some like this and have lasted a long time also had a mate when he was 2nd or 3rd year done his up with a gun to phucken tight and it didn't last long

[Shadow]

If just doing pinion seal why not mark the shaft,nut and drive flange do seal and then doit up to exactly the same spot done some like this and have lasted a long time also had a mate when he was 2nd or 3rd year done his up with a gun to phucken tight and it didn't last long

well if it fucks up its gonna cost you a diff rebuild (pinion bearings)

for $20 id just slap a pinion spacer in at the same time.

[Sic Lux]

yeah because he didn't do it up the same as what it was when it come off the ones i've done are still going 50thou+ plus k's later

[hjsixty]

ended up buying a diff (front diff - in good order) of a mechanic (mate of a mate) for $150.
He reckons its in good order.
From what has been said its obvious that you have to know what you are doing to set your diff up.
Its not just a matter of taking apart and putting back together.
If you don't tension thaings right etc, you will have things prematurely wear.
Its easier for me to unbolt center, put new one in now that I can get one for a decent price.
By the time you buy bearings and spacers and seals etc etc, you probably spend near on a $100 anyway.
Lets just hope the 'new secondhand one' is as good as he says it is!

Thanks fellas...