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Removing Valve body from a442f auto- new q

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Removing Valve body from a442f auto- new q

Post by carts »

Has anyone got any experience in pulling the valve body out of an 80 series auto?

I have reason to suspect that the valve body in my auto is playing silly buggers. I have another auto sitting in the garage from a 100 series (still a442f) and am contemplating just changing over valve bodies to see if it fixes the problem. Changing the auto completely over at this point in time seems pointless (and more work than its worth).

Is it a hard job to do with the auto still in the car? Whats involved? and what torque settings need to be applied to the bolts to fit the new valve body? Besides resealling the oil pan, do i need to replace o-rings or gaskets under the valve body?

Cheers,
Aaron
Last edited by carts on Sun May 13, 2007 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
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Post by dow50r »

Carts
Take your pan off, check out the sludge and magnets. If you find any steel or brass in the sludge, change the auto. If you dont, put new oil and filter in it and keep flogging it...the spare wont wear out in the shed. Changing the valve body will be pointless. You will have clutch problems in your auto, not valvebody problems....when clutches wear and oil isnt changed, then the crud gets into the valve body and stuffs everything up.
The tension on the bolts for valve body is 22 inch pounds. You dont need to change any gaskets or orings, but it is a large job to have to do again if they leak, so there are 3 gromet like orings from each clutch pack to the valve body. What you could do is take the valve body out of your spare auto and send it off to extreme transmissions in Melbourne, and have it shift kitted....then install in your auto. This increases pressures and gives positive shifts. Good for turbo 4.5's :)
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Post by physh »

Yeah I put the extreme valve body on my A442F, good shifting. :)

If only I could afford the turbo at the moment. :)
2002 Landcruiser FZJ105R GXL (Hers)
2006 Landcruiser HZJ105R GXL (His)
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Post by dow50r »

physh wrote:Yeah I put the extreme valve body on my A442F, good shifting. :)

If only I could afford the turbo at the moment. :)
Buying and having installed is just the start of the expense...then you have to feed it fuel...premium fuel....then you have to pry your foot off the accelerator...but it wont budge because your tight trousers have cut off the circulation down there....mine kept up to a v6 commodore vt from the lights to 100km/hr and had traction problems in first. What a drive :D
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Post by carts »

dow50r wrote:Carts
Take your pan off, check out the sludge and magnets. If you find any steel or brass in the sludge, change the auto. If you dont, put new oil and filter in it and keep flogging it...:)
No steel or brass, just sludge.....changed filter and fluids 10k ago, so i think i'll keep flogging it until it goes kapput.

Any idea if the kickdown cable on the 100 is the same as the 80 for length and fittings? My manual reckons you need to remove the valve body to change the kickdown cable in the auto anyway. Either way, the valve body may need to come out to do the full auto swap.
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http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
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Post by dow50r »

Aaron
Should be thesame...same motor...same auto...
Andrew
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Post by carts »

On a different note, how does this box regulate temperature, or is the flow of ATF continuous through the oil cooler up front?
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Post by Modified Toy »

carts wrote:
dow50r wrote:Carts
Take your pan off, check out the sludge and magnets. If you find any steel or brass in the sludge, change the auto. If you dont, put new oil and filter in it and keep flogging it...:)
No steel or brass, just sludge.....changed filter and fluids 10k ago, so i think i'll keep flogging it until it goes kapput.

Any idea if the kickdown cable on the 100 is the same as the 80 for length and fittings? My manual reckons you need to remove the valve body to change the kickdown cable in the auto anyway. Either way, the valve body may need to come out to do the full auto swap.
You can change the valve body in the car it would be easy for the right person no need to remove trans to change cable,But what is the actual problem that you auto is doing wrong?majority of cruiser cables are the same as long as you are fitting the auto behind the same engine it came off.mmm shift kited valve bodys don't really do an auto a lot of justice in the way of durability as you are only applying the clutch harder to firm the shift but if you increased the clutch size it will firm the shifts and create durability.
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Post by carts »

Modified Toy wrote: But what is the actual problem that you auto is doing wrong?
After the auto gets warm (20 mins run time) it develops a clunk when you come to a halt/ accelerate off the mark. Its not driveline slop. When the auto is cold, it shifts like new.

Just as the vehicle is coming to a rest after slowing down, its like the auto catches up. Similar sort of feel to when you shift from neutral into drive. Giving a little clunk as it drops into gear. Then, as you go to acclerate off at the lights again, it clunks/jolts again. Its not a major clunk, just something i notice. Most passengers in the car dont notice it unless i point it out. Its as if 1st gear is not fully engaged until you accelerate again.

By pressing the 2nd gear start button, the problem goes away completely. Comes to a halt nice, and accelerates nice (although obviously slower). So its not driveline slop, otherwise you would still get knocks. And as for making it knock in 1st, you can accelerate slowly or fast, it doesnt make a difference.
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Post by Modified Toy »

so its a coast clunk in to first gear common try agjusting the cable as the cable adjust shift pressure in these units(the early units a440 used this for shift timing aswell) so the more you adjust the outer on the cable towards the throttle body the lower the pressure and the further away the higher.So you probably need to lower the pressure a little to get rid of the clunk try adjusting it in small increments at a time like one complete turn of the cable nut at a time and see how you go! :) :)
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Post by carts »

I just had a look at the cable. It is out of adjustment by about 6mm according to my workshop manual, on the higher pressure side. As you suggest, this may explain the clunk into first. I will adjust it and see how i go.

The part that annoys me is that i had the truck down to an auto shop, and they adjusted the kickdown cable in the direction that makes the problem worse. Hmmmmmmm, its hard to get good help.
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http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
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Post by Modified Toy »

alot of people struggle with the cable setup! :lol: :lol:
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