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Snapped head bolt...
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Snapped head bolt...
G'day, just finshed taking the head off my 2F & snapped one of the bolts off in the block. I dont think its ever been off before as some of the bolts had a bit of corosion on them... Does anyone have any ideas on:
-How to get the rest of the bolt out, as the others were bloody tight?
-Where to get replacement head bolts?
Also is there anywhere people would recommed in melbourne to get a head reco'd, preferably somewhere that could pick up/ drop off??
Cheers, Adam.
-How to get the rest of the bolt out, as the others were bloody tight?
-Where to get replacement head bolts?
Also is there anywhere people would recommed in melbourne to get a head reco'd, preferably somewhere that could pick up/ drop off??
Cheers, Adam.
went there dressed up, came back messed up
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
You could try an Ezy-out for the head bolt but it may be safer to hand it over to an engineering mob and let them handle it. Worst comes to the worst, you could always use a drill bit and steady hand but if you slip you could be up for a replacement block. You will need to re-tap the thread after the bolt is out. Its good practice to run a tap down all the threads anyway to clear out any of the gunk that can build up anyway (it can affect torque readings), and blow it out with compressed air.
You can buy replacement bolts from repco, bursons et al. ARP make decent head bolts. Id probably replace them all as I think some bolts were only designed to be used once. No idea if this applies to you but its cheap insurance.
Almost any engineering shop would be able to handle a 2F head (they're not complicated). What do you want from a reco? New valves, stem seals, machining, springs, acid bath etc. etc. can add up quickly so ring around for prices first. One guy might never have done one and will take all day on it whereas the next guy might have done ten this week and can turn one out in a couple hours so it really does pay to use a pro.
You could also buy a manual and DIY but if your not too mechanically minded Id definitely send it to an expert.
You can buy replacement bolts from repco, bursons et al. ARP make decent head bolts. Id probably replace them all as I think some bolts were only designed to be used once. No idea if this applies to you but its cheap insurance.
Almost any engineering shop would be able to handle a 2F head (they're not complicated). What do you want from a reco? New valves, stem seals, machining, springs, acid bath etc. etc. can add up quickly so ring around for prices first. One guy might never have done one and will take all day on it whereas the next guy might have done ten this week and can turn one out in a couple hours so it really does pay to use a pro.
You could also buy a manual and DIY but if your not too mechanically minded Id definitely send it to an expert.
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|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
is any of the bolt sticking out of the head if so spay it with wd40 or something similar ''SOAK IT ' with the stuff
get your self a stud extractor and remove the stud that way
http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp? ... GrpID=3124
if your not sure about what your doing call a thread repair doctor they are mobile and
even ring a few mechanic shops n see if they recomend anyone
look for someone who has been in the game a long time as they ''should'' know what there doin and be reasonably quick about it
and go about the studs n prep as v840 suggested , probably pay to get a full set of studs as u do not wish to break one mid fitment of the head
get your self a stud extractor and remove the stud that way
http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp? ... GrpID=3124
if your not sure about what your doing call a thread repair doctor they are mobile and
even ring a few mechanic shops n see if they recomend anyone
look for someone who has been in the game a long time as they ''should'' know what there doin and be reasonably quick about it
and go about the studs n prep as v840 suggested , probably pay to get a full set of studs as u do not wish to break one mid fitment of the head
Thanks for the replies so far guys...
Looks like i'll get a whole new set of studs from Don Kyatts or similar.
Plowy - That stud remover look interesting, do you know how it works? the left over is soaking in WD40 and theres about 2-3mm left exposed...
I was thinking of using an ezy-out but i have broken these in the past trying to remove bolts that were stuck & these ones were in there pretty good.. i dont want to have a broken stud and a broken ezy-out stuck in the block
My problem is now, the car is undrivable so i wont be able to get it to any engineering/ engine shops
Looks like i'll get a whole new set of studs from Don Kyatts or similar.
Plowy - That stud remover look interesting, do you know how it works? the left over is soaking in WD40 and theres about 2-3mm left exposed...
I was thinking of using an ezy-out but i have broken these in the past trying to remove bolts that were stuck & these ones were in there pretty good.. i dont want to have a broken stud and a broken ezy-out stuck in the block
My problem is now, the car is undrivable so i wont be able to get it to any engineering/ engine shops
went there dressed up, came back messed up
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
A head bolt goes way to deep for an Easy out to be of any use if there's only a few mm's left exposed you don't have much to work with.
If you drilled a hole the right size in a length of flat and put the brocken bolt through the hole and welded it good enough you may have some chance of getting it to undo.
Good luck.
If you drilled a hole the right size in a length of flat and put the brocken bolt through the hole and welded it good enough you may have some chance of getting it to undo.
Good luck.
Goanna Off Road, Out the back in the shed.
Theres about 25mm still in the block... to much to use an ezy-out??
looks like i might be welding some plate on - heres what i have ot work with (before soaking it in WD40)...
Reason for removing the head..
looks like i might be welding some plate on - heres what i have ot work with (before soaking it in WD40)...
Reason for removing the head..
went there dressed up, came back messed up
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
From your photo I think you have a bit of a problem as it seems the bolt is well rusted into the block try welding a length of flat to the end and heat the block from the side while moving the bolt back and forth ,if this fails to do the job forget trying to get the bolt out in one piece file the end flat center punch it in the middle and drill a small pilot hole all the way through it then drill a hole a couple of mm's smaller than the bolt and get a thin punch and collapse the remains into the hole then drill it out again repeat process over and over you have to be careful and patient and only drill the bolt not the block but you will get it out this way I know I've done it many times when the bolts all gone run a tap down the hole and away you go.As for head bolts a set of good second hand ones would be fine there not the torque to yield type so as long as there not pitted from rust oil 'em up and whack 'em in.
Goanna Off Road, Out the back in the shed.
Thanks alot guys, i called around a few engine places today, and found one that will do the head for me and get rid of the bolt in the block. I'm thinking i'll just get him to put the head on again as well, as it would take someone who knows what they're doing bugger all time to put back on - that way i know its done right insted of buggering it up myself and paying out more in the long run...
went there dressed up, came back messed up
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
81 FJ40 hardtop - Lexus 1UZ-FE conversion underway
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