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warn 8274 brake sharft spindle

General Tech Talk

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warn 8274 brake sharft spindle

Post by old tom »

HI has any one had truble taping into the end of brake sharft? broken 3 taps any iders ?
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Post by sootygu »

Had the same problem. HSS would not touch it so ended up using carbide taps but even broke a couple of those, luckily they cost me nothing.

Carbide is probably your only option.
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Post by old tom »

what would happen if i over drilled the hole and then mig the hole then taped into it would this work?
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Post by Bad JuJu »

Cobalt tap - is apparently what you use.
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Post by GQ4.8coilcab »

Me and the old man had trouble drilling it. What bit did you use? And yer, what tap do you use? Is it absolutely necessary? We gave up but havent fitted it yet so we can still do it. Any hints?
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Post by STIKA »

i have had a bolt tig welded to mine
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Post by GQ4.8coilcab »

STIKA wrote:i have had a bolt tig welded to mine
mmmmm good idea :cool: Wouldn't be as strong as tapping a bolt but will hold it better then the circlip anyday
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Post by nzdarin »

I've had a clamp made that fits over the circlip. To fit it you need to remove the circlip and the spring washers. It then fits where the spring washers were. You then put the circlip on and then the second part has a recess machined into it that the circlip fit into. There are 3 bolts that hold the 2 parts together.
A little bit more involved puttig it together BUT it will fit any standard winch without mods!
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Post by Zac Zec »

any good machine shop should be able to drill and tap it. cost me 100 bucks to get my done(bolt and end cap machined out of 4140 included).
They drilled the hole with like a masonary drill bit(slighty different) then heated up to tap it, then treated it again to bring it back to strength.
Money well spent i rekon

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Post by cloughy »

Zac Zec wrote: They drilled the hole with like a masonary drill bit

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Post by jaspers joint »

If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
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Post by awill4x4 »

jaspers joint wrote:If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
also, if you reverse sharpen a masonry bit and run it in reverse in a drill at slow speeds it will often drill out a snapped HSS tap that can't be removed normally.
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Post by Guy »

I have used and abused a set of drill bit made by a german mob, they are labelled Allround Bohrer .. Picked them up from a 4x4 show years ago. After watching the guy turn a wiltshire file into swiss cheese with one bit (about 30 holes) and start on another as a demo I was convinced. I have never sharpened mine and they still bite well. Work as masonary bits as well ..
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Post by cloughy »

jaspers joint wrote:If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
No shit, you sharpen the little endy bit as per normal drill bit :?:
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Post by Guy »

cloughy wrote:
jaspers joint wrote:If you sharpen a masonary bit the same as normal drill it will drill thru hardened steal
No shit, you sharpen the little endy bit as per normal drill bit :?:
Make sure that you have an aluminiom oxide stone or similar to sharpen it with, and that the bit is of good quality to begin with .. not all carbide tips are equal
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Post by Zac Zec »

You can buy special drill bits that look like a masonary bit just to drill high tensile and hardened steel.
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Post by cloughy »

Zac Zec wrote:You can buy special drill bits that look like a masonary bit just to drill high tensile and hardened steel.
Deadset?? not taking the piss, very curious indeed, do you have any links, pics??
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Post by Zac Zec »

Deadset :!:
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Post by nastytroll »

The brand I have used is ARTU drill have been using them for 12 years (not the same ones), they can be sharpened to an extent if you have a diamond lap/wheel. I used to use them for drilling upto 62 rockwell hardend alloy toolsteels and tungsten molibdenum high speed steels, A file is only 56-58 rockwell. They need to be kept cool or the silversolder will melt holding the carbide tip in and if they get exesive vibration the will chip.
ARTU drills are cheap bout $6 for a 10mm.
Back to topic highmount brake shafts are only case hardend so you can anneal the end to be tapped, The late model warn shafts have a deeper hardening and some I've tryed to tap were to hard so I drilled them oversize pressed in a hightensile slug and tig welded it in then tapped the slug. I've done prob 30 Highmount brake shafts and had no problems.
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Post by giantracing »

easy job. 10mm hole 20 mm deep. $100 per sharft . done heaps of them never had one i couldn't do.
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Post by GQ4.8coilcab »

giantracing wrote:easy job. 10mm hole 20 mm deep. $100 per sharft . done heaps of them never had one i couldn't do.
how do you do it :lol:
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Post by giantracing »

easy. deposit 100 in to an account. post to me, i do it, send it back. see easy for you
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Post by chpd 80 »

Anyone in Melbourne who does this???
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Post by hammey »

chpd 80 wrote:Anyone in Melbourne who does this???
yeah mate, SG Leslie&sons ph 0394592859
19 Mologa rd West Hiedelberg
VIC 3081

The guys name is Malcom. cost me $80 and you get a bolt as well as the retaining cap, and maybe shims but cant remember. :D
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Post by old tom »

sent mine to malcom today
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Post by chpd 80 »

Thanks guys, will send it to them today.
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