Hi all
My oil preasure typically runs middle to top of the centre third of the guage(make sense??) My mates runs at the very top of the last third.(almost off the guage). Which if either is normal. Both are diesels.
Thanks in advance
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
What is normal oil preasure, 60 series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
2h
Yep ok thanks. So mine with mid range oil preasure is fine but my mates is to high. What is the problem with high oil preasure. what damage can result?
Re: 2h
The gauge and sensor are unreliable in these. Before you make any decisions ,check it with a mechanical gauge that can be plugged into the engine block where the oil pressure sensor currently sits.DR Frankenstine wrote:Yep ok thanks. So mine with mid range oil preasure is fine but my mates is to high. What is the problem with high oil preasure. what damage can result?
Do the test outlined in the manual.
I think they should hold a minimum pressure of about 30 psi for 2 minutes at 2500 rpm warmed up.
Maximum is about 80psi which you will get with a new engine.
I think its the same for most landcruiser engines,diesel or petrol.
CHECK THE MANUAL.
1988 FJ 73 LX Lim Ed powered by 1HZ
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
Re: 2h
The problem on these engines is the releiefe valve.DR Frankenstine wrote:Yep ok thanks. So mine with mid range oil preasure is fine but my mates is to high. What is the problem with high oil preasure. what damage can result?
The valve is a plunger witha spring behind it, eventually the plunger either wears a step in the bore or the plunger wears one edge down so it starts to stick.
The other thing I think occurs, is when the bore wears oil can easily get down behind the plunger. This results in an equalised pressure both sides of the plunger which prevents the plunger from doing what it needs to do.
The design is somewhat flawed(in my opinion) in that the plunger itself blocks the spill passage (until its pushed back far enough to expose the spill passage), and there is no other way for oil behind the plunger to spill.
Something I think could solve this proiblem is if you were to relieve the pressure behind the reliefe valve so that the problem I mention above can never occur. A simple external way to do it could be to drill the cap that holds the plunger and spring in, and run a small line back into the sump. Would only need to be a very small line as we are not talking about huge amounts of oil leaking past the plunger.
The other way i have had suggested on this forum is to remove the timing case, and drill another spill passage further down the reliefe valve bore where the plunger does not cover it. Of course, removing the timing case is a pita :(
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests