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4" inch lift - 35s???
4" inch lift - 35s???
looking to do a 4" lift and was wondering if i'll be able to get 35s under without guard chopping or scraping on the guards....will i need a body lift? after the 4' lift?
as said in a lot of previous posts a spring lift will not help you fit bigger tyres, think about it, you put a 4in lift in, go over a bump and compress the suspension 4in you are back to standard height. Compress it to the bumpstops it is like you had no lift at all, you will need to body lift and cut guards i would say. There is not a chance i could run my 35in simex without my 2in body lift and cut guards.
Rob
I am assuming gq
Rob
I am assuming gq
i would say NO, you will at least need a body lift and possibly a small guard trim too, depends on how stiff the springs are. mine still rubbed with 4 inch springs and a 2 inch body lift, but only a little bit at full compression. im now running 37s with the same lift, but i had to take a fair bit out of the guards to make it work.
gq sring lift
i have a 3 inch lift with 35 10.5 15 simex just catch on the edge of the rubber fair thats it!!!!with no gaurd cut at all! but on the other hand a mate has 4 inch lift with 35 11.5 15 simex and he has no gaurds left all bent up!!embryo wrote:im now running q78s with 4" lift and a guard cut
GU as above but may benifit from a front radius arm spacer also (or drop box) just to be sure to be sure...Nelso wrote:For a GU yes. For a GQ just trim the guards.
GU 4.2 TD Garrett BB Hi-flow, M8274 + Bells & Whistles with plenty of fruit still on the list!
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I agree this is your best option.cheaper and keeps the truck that bit lowergut42 wrote:just use radius arm spacers or drop boxes and you wont need to body lift or cut any guards worked on both of our GQs. GUs fit 35s fine.
4INCH EFS LIFT
SUPRERIOR ARMS
TWIN LOCKERS
11000LB tigerz11 WINCH
36 swampers OFF ROAD
3inch S/S/S exhaust
SUPRERIOR ARMS
TWIN LOCKERS
11000LB tigerz11 WINCH
36 swampers OFF ROAD
3inch S/S/S exhaust
Ihad 4" lift and trashed front mudflaps with 33x12.5 muddies, so when i went 35's i put in a 2" body lift and 30mm spring spacers(not req but cheap lift). I still had to trim some of the front guard and remove mudflaps. I doubt very much if i'd have any guards at all left if i had've stayed with 4" lift under serious offroad conditions.
You'll fit em on road and doing poser flexes, but do some proper hard offroading and watch the damage created.
You'll fit em on road and doing poser flexes, but do some proper hard offroading and watch the damage created.
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I've spaced my front diff forward 25mm and run 37s without hitting the back of the guard. The 12mm spacers or drop boxes are the cheapest and easiest way to stop the front from scrubbing. For the rear just do the quarter chop and trim the back of the guard while you are at it. Much better option than a body lift.
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I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
another thing to consider is rim offset.
i have 3" and 35s on -22 offset rims and its fine.
theres a little rubbing gere and there but i need to extend my bumpstops still
i have 3" and 35s on -22 offset rims and its fine.
theres a little rubbing gere and there but i need to extend my bumpstops still
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Re: 4" inch lift - 35s???
on what vehicle? A GQ, a MQ, a GU a Navara? Do you want to extend your bump stops down to stop compression. What width 35", and on what rim and back spacing?joelt wrote:looking to do a 4" lift and was wondering if i'll be able to get 35s under without guard chopping or scraping on the guards....will i need a body lift? after the 4' lift?
Ransom note = demand + collage
..
If its a GQ... 4" + 35's on a 15x8 is a perfect combo. The vehicle looks larger than normal but still stock, rather than outragously lifted with huge tyres. Which is what you want imho
You will have to chop the rear of the rear gaurds & possibly push the front diff forward to avoid fouling.
At full articulation you WILL get rubbing on the inner rear wheel arches.
You will have to chop the rear of the rear gaurds & possibly push the front diff forward to avoid fouling.
At full articulation you WILL get rubbing on the inner rear wheel arches.
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