Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
wiring LED's
Moderator: -Scott-
Posts: 1379
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Location: West of Woodridge, North of Ipswich, South of Oxley, East of Wacol
wiring LED's
righto, i built a roof console, and i'm using the light beam as an anchorpoint,
i want to change the old light to 4 LEDS- each on an individual switch, branching from the old light wire
from my understanding, this is the setup needed-
1. positive wire crimped to 4 wires
2. each branch goes to an individual resistor
3. each resistor then goes to the switch
4. each switch then runs to its light
5. each light then runs back and gets crimped to the individual negative wire
am i right? if something seems amiss, please do tell, don't really wanna screw it up, and definately not up for melting the wire in the roof.... (console will not move for a very long time)
i want to change the old light to 4 LEDS- each on an individual switch, branching from the old light wire
from my understanding, this is the setup needed-
1. positive wire crimped to 4 wires
2. each branch goes to an individual resistor
3. each resistor then goes to the switch
4. each switch then runs to its light
5. each light then runs back and gets crimped to the individual negative wire
am i right? if something seems amiss, please do tell, don't really wanna screw it up, and definately not up for melting the wire in the roof.... (console will not move for a very long time)
'98 Jackaroo
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
What sort of LED's are you using? Just a LED in its bare component form? or one of the LED things already built in a typical light holder (screw in or fuse kinda one)
If your just using individual LED's, then you are absolutely correct with your wiring. Resistor can be after the switch attached to the LED (often more convenient this way as you can heatshrink the resistor to the leg of the LED).
If you are using a pre-assembled LED Unit, they usually have the current limiting resistor inbuilt.
You are also aware that these lights will only work with your door open? (just making sure).
If you are using a LED individually, they generally do not give a very good spread of light.
If your just using individual LED's, then you are absolutely correct with your wiring. Resistor can be after the switch attached to the LED (often more convenient this way as you can heatshrink the resistor to the leg of the LED).
If you are using a pre-assembled LED Unit, they usually have the current limiting resistor inbuilt.
You are also aware that these lights will only work with your door open? (just making sure).
If you are using a LED individually, they generally do not give a very good spread of light.
Posts: 1379
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Location: West of Woodridge, North of Ipswich, South of Oxley, East of Wacol
why would it only work with the door open? the old light had the 3 features-
on off door
wouldn't it now be either on/off on/door off/door (depending on which wire i connect to where)
the LED's are individual, short leg long leg
on off door
wouldn't it now be either on/off on/door off/door (depending on which wire i connect to where)
the LED's are individual, short leg long leg
'98 Jackaroo
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
ah yeh your right sorry ^_^chikoroll_ wrote:why would it only work with the door open? the old light had the 3 features-
on off door
wouldn't it now be either on/off on/door off/door (depending on which wire i connect to where)
the LED's are individual, short leg long leg
The way most interior light's works is by having the positive voltage supply, and then switching the ground, either the door completes the ground, or if you goto the other mode of operation, you ground it that way.
So to keep this mode of operation you need to make sure the switches you buy for the LED's are DPST, and then you need to adjust your wiring.
DPST means dual pole single throw, or means a 2 position toggle switch. (one with 3 terminals)
i did a quick drawing to show you what you need.
http://members.optushome.com.au/warwick ... 20leds.bmp
Posts: 1379
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Location: West of Woodridge, North of Ipswich, South of Oxley, East of Wacol
lol did you not say "quick drawing" ...was that really "quick" to draw?
thanks for it
i will use that as a template for when i do wire it up
for some reason the door goes direct to the roof mount... so am i right in assuming i should just attach the door wire to that mount? (not too fussed on sending the roof live though) (or is that the dead connection and the wire is the door?)
thanks for it
i will use that as a template for when i do wire it up
for some reason the door goes direct to the roof mount... so am i right in assuming i should just attach the door wire to that mount? (not too fussed on sending the roof live though) (or is that the dead connection and the wire is the door?)
'98 Jackaroo
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
firestang wrote:Thats a great diagram. Just for a techo dummy . What value resistors do you use.
depends on the led used.
The LED will be rated for a certain current. Once you know the current and the voltage drop across the LED, you can then use this information to calculate the resistor value.
Typical value for a led would be about 10mA, typical voltage drop across a LED is about 1.6volts for a standard one, or about 1.9volts for a high brithness one.
So now we know the current through the circuit, and the voltage drop across the LED. The voltage drop across the resistor needs to be the rest of the 12v. So 12-1.6 = 10.4v
Use Ohms law, V = I * R (voltage equals current times resistance)
or R = V / I leads to R = 10.4 / 0.010 = 1040 ohms (1k resistor would do)..
Again, you need to know the current and voltage drop of the particular LED in question.
Different colours will have very different voltage drops and current ratings, Blue LEDS can have a voltage drop of as much as 4.5volts and current can vary from 10 to 25ma.
Led's
A resistor calculator makes using multiple LED's easy.
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n ... /index_eng
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n ... /index_eng
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests