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Dead alternator
Moderator: Tiny
Dead alternator
My alternator died today
There seems to be a bit of an oil leak on the rhs of the motor (or I may have been clumsy at last oil change?), but it looks like a decent amount of oil has dripped into the back of the alt.
Questions:
Anybody got a spare one in Melbourne for a decent price?
Or
Anybody had a shot at rebuilding one.
There are several threads in the FAQ that don't really give definitive answers...or maybe I'm too tired at the mo'.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
I've got the standard one off my '92 ELIII sitting here looking lonely. I put it on Ebay a while back but nobody was interested. It's complete except for the front pulley, you'd need a rattle gun to swap your pulley onto it (they're a right prick to undo/ do up.)
It was working fine when removed- I upgraded to a 70 Amp unit because of my dual batteries and electric thermo fans.
It was working fine when removed- I upgraded to a 70 Amp unit because of my dual batteries and electric thermo fans.
David
If you've got power steering it's a PITA to change. If you haven't it's (comparatively) dead easy and the Commodore one would be the best option.
I've got power steering and opted for a SV21 Camry alternator. Do a search and you'll find a full doco on the ins and outs of my changeover. Suffice to say it's not a five minute job and you'll need access to a metal lathe to machine the pulley.
I've got power steering and opted for a SV21 Camry alternator. Do a search and you'll find a full doco on the ins and outs of my changeover. Suffice to say it's not a five minute job and you'll need access to a metal lathe to machine the pulley.
David
OK, so I got an alternator from the wreckers this morning, but farkin power steering pump is a complete PITA!!!
Gotta have another go at it tomorrow morning.... the bracket that bolts onto the head just wouldn't go on, so I took the pump off it... now can't get the pump back on. Hopefully it's just that I couldn't see what i was doing in the dark..
Gotta have another go at it tomorrow morning.... the bracket that bolts onto the head just wouldn't go on, so I took the pump off it... now can't get the pump back on. Hopefully it's just that I couldn't see what i was doing in the dark..
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
Watch the tension on the drive belt when your putting it back also.
Its a royal pain in the ass to get too and can be very easily be
undertightened - leading to slipping and very rapid wear and worse.
Don't forget that a new blet will stretch slightly after som use - so
going back and retighteneing it down the track is a good move.
P.S. did you use an Applause alt. ?
Its a royal pain in the ass to get too and can be very easily be
undertightened - leading to slipping and very rapid wear and worse.
Don't forget that a new blet will stretch slightly after som use - so
going back and retighteneing it down the track is a good move.
P.S. did you use an Applause alt. ?
You sure that's a Commodore one? It's very small- my Camry one is 70 Amps.senergy wrote:Ive got powersteering too and it didnt look like the auto electrician had much trouble putting in the commodore one.
this is the one i used
nippondenso 31400-81a0 75A
Edit, just found this: http://translate.google.com/translate?h ... n%26sa%3DG
it's off a Jimny!
David
Yep, nearly as embarrassing as a Camry alternator... Now where is my cardy- it's getting cold!senergy wrote:Jimny eh.. thats embarrassing., O well its still working well and puts out enough current for my set up.
It's actually a good find that the Jimny will fit. How does your drive belt line up with the waterpump pulley and harmonic balancer? Did they machine anything off it???
David
Some of the older holden alternators fit this bracket. and the only things that stop you putting more than ~100Amps through it is the blocks in the middle of the alternator. if you can find some bigger ones then you are in luck. At the moment i have dual Bosh alternators at the moment ~100Amps each with 2 1000 CCA batterys which makes running the wich fridge compressor and inverters a nice thing.
Chris
Chris
They didn't have to machine anything. All they did was change the pulley (which lines up perfectly) and they changed the plug on the back. That was a bit of mission.
I didn't actually put it in I just watched the autoelectrican put it in. He didn't seem to have much troubles actually sliding it in either.
I have had to change the bearing in the harmonic balancer since it was installed. But there hasn't been any issues since then for over a year.
I didn't actually put it in I just watched the autoelectrican put it in. He didn't seem to have much troubles actually sliding it in either.
I have had to change the bearing in the harmonic balancer since it was installed. But there hasn't been any issues since then for over a year.
Well that sounds like the one to get then!
The "nose" on mine sticks out further meaning the pulley had to be machined so it will sit back further on the alternator. Otherwise the belt isn't aligned correctly.
Don't suppose you know if it's got remote voltage sensing? I wired it up on mine (Ferozas don't have it standard)- so in theory my battery should charge faster because the terminal voltage will be higher. All it requires is running another wire up to the positive battery terminal.
The "nose" on mine sticks out further meaning the pulley had to be machined so it will sit back further on the alternator. Otherwise the belt isn't aligned correctly.
Don't suppose you know if it's got remote voltage sensing? I wired it up on mine (Ferozas don't have it standard)- so in theory my battery should charge faster because the terminal voltage will be higher. All it requires is running another wire up to the positive battery terminal.
David
Sorry I don't get the question?senergy wrote:Not sure about the remote voltage sensing. Will the 3rd wire go from the +ve to the back of the alternator?
The "Sense" wire is another terminal in the control plug. The Feroza's standard alternator senses the voltage internally (from the output lug) and it doesn't need the extra wire to the postive. The idea is all the current flow through the large cable from the alternator output (bolt type lug) to the battery results in a voltage drop in the cable. More current being drawn results in a higher voltage drop and a lower charge voltage at the battery positive. A lower terminal voltage means the battery will charge slower.
If another sense wire is run- used just for voltage sensing- it will only have a tiny current flow and so has virtually no voltage drop across it's length. Thus the alternator regulator sees the true voltage at the battery and can compensate for the drop on the main cable.
David
Which model Bosch commodore alternater are you using?guido1985 wrote:Some of the older holden alternators fit this bracket. and the only things that stop you putting more than ~100Amps through it is the blocks in the middle of the alternator. if you can find some bigger ones then you are in luck. At the moment i have dual Bosh alternators at the moment ~100Amps each with 2 1000 CCA batterys which makes running the wich fridge compressor and inverters a nice thing.
Chris
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