Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
springs and t bars???
Moderator: Tiny
springs and t bars???
hey iam about to lift my feroza iam thinking 1-2 inches could some one answer a few easy questions?
Ive heard if i wind the tortion bar up will it be dangerous and uncomfortable?
if thats true how much for heavy duty ones? is it better to get the rear springs reset or buy new one? what kind of shocks and how much for a 2 inch lift. thanks.
Ive heard if i wind the tortion bar up will it be dangerous and uncomfortable?
if thats true how much for heavy duty ones? is it better to get the rear springs reset or buy new one? what kind of shocks and how much for a 2 inch lift. thanks.
I'm sure this has been done many times if you did a search.
As long as you don't wind your bars up too much it will be fine. I think about 40mm is the norm.
The ride will stiffen up and you lose downtravel the more you crank them up, to the point where you will have no downtravel left. You just need to find a happy medium that suits you.
Taking the swaybar off improves offroad movement up front, but in my Rocky, it is MUCH safer to have the swaybar on for onroad driving. I've done numerous tests, and the bodyroll improves dramatically with the swaybar removed, especially when doing swerving manouveres one way then another. I remove mine when i go offroad (If i remember ).
Heavy duty bars only increase the load you can carry up front, and make the ride firmer, they DO NOT give you more lift.
The guys on here have said previously you can use springs from other vehicles, and the same with shocks, but I'm sure your local 4x4 supplier would be able to get you in springs and shocks.
One vote for Rancho RS9000X from me They're really nice.
Maybe take a squiz here:
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=6645
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=41472
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=37500
As long as you don't wind your bars up too much it will be fine. I think about 40mm is the norm.
The ride will stiffen up and you lose downtravel the more you crank them up, to the point where you will have no downtravel left. You just need to find a happy medium that suits you.
Taking the swaybar off improves offroad movement up front, but in my Rocky, it is MUCH safer to have the swaybar on for onroad driving. I've done numerous tests, and the bodyroll improves dramatically with the swaybar removed, especially when doing swerving manouveres one way then another. I remove mine when i go offroad (If i remember ).
Heavy duty bars only increase the load you can carry up front, and make the ride firmer, they DO NOT give you more lift.
The guys on here have said previously you can use springs from other vehicles, and the same with shocks, but I'm sure your local 4x4 supplier would be able to get you in springs and shocks.
One vote for Rancho RS9000X from me They're really nice.
Maybe take a squiz here:
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=6645
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=41472
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=37500
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
Ok - then winding up the front bars is the easiest solution to the problem.
As for dangerous etc - that's a little over the top IMO, yes the roll centre
goes up so it will handle a little worse but not dangerously.
What you are trading off, as others correctly point out, is droop travel.
You will have mostly bump and no droop which means that you will have
traction issues on uneven ground - more than you do already anyway.
Front shocks will be fine as the overall travel is the same.
Technically you can make you car illegal by winding up the bars ( at least
in Victoria... )
The rear is a little harder - have the springs reset, aftermarket or substitute
You could fit longer shackels but once again watch the legality. Rear
shocks will become an issue with lift - they will be too short and will
limit droop ( again ). I have destroyed a pair of std length shocks for
exactly this reason.
And as an aside - have you considered adding some body lift ? You could
do a bit of both... 25mm body lift and some suspension lift IMO would
give you a working compromise.
Sorry to rabbit on, but I have a fair amount of experience in this area.
As for dangerous etc - that's a little over the top IMO, yes the roll centre
goes up so it will handle a little worse but not dangerously.
What you are trading off, as others correctly point out, is droop travel.
You will have mostly bump and no droop which means that you will have
traction issues on uneven ground - more than you do already anyway.
Front shocks will be fine as the overall travel is the same.
Technically you can make you car illegal by winding up the bars ( at least
in Victoria... )
The rear is a little harder - have the springs reset, aftermarket or substitute
You could fit longer shackels but once again watch the legality. Rear
shocks will become an issue with lift - they will be too short and will
limit droop ( again ). I have destroyed a pair of std length shocks for
exactly this reason.
And as an aside - have you considered adding some body lift ? You could
do a bit of both... 25mm body lift and some suspension lift IMO would
give you a working compromise.
Sorry to rabbit on, but I have a fair amount of experience in this area.
We have a Froza (narrow track) which is being converted to a 'toy' when the JK Wrangler arrives.
At the moment we have 1.5" King Springs in the back and have wound up Torsion bars to suit.
We need to run bigger tyres, so need more lift. Primarially working offroad (onroad manners aren't that essential). Can anyone recommend a set-up to allow 31's?
At the moment we have 1.5" King Springs in the back and have wound up Torsion bars to suit.
We need to run bigger tyres, so need more lift. Primarially working offroad (onroad manners aren't that essential). Can anyone recommend a set-up to allow 31's?
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
How much clearance do you need over what your current lift is??TassieTroll wrote:We have a Froza (narrow track) which is being converted to a 'toy' when the JK Wrangler arrives.
At the moment we have 1.5" King Springs in the back and have wound up Torsion bars to suit.
We need to run bigger tyres, so need more lift. Primarially working offroad (onroad manners aren't that essential). Can anyone recommend a set-up to allow 31's?
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Road Ranger
31 Coopers will hit the inner guards at full bump. As different tyres have
different actual heights ( inspite of the specs ) it pays to check.
31's will also touch the rear of the guards ( where the mudflaps are ) in some circumstances.
Body lift is the answer IMO if you dont want to put ont the butchers apron, lets you have some droop travel at the front and solves the ineer guard
clearance issue. Winding up the torsion bars is quick and easy BUT it
hurts you off road performance. A bit of each is the yay IMO.
In an earlier phase I had a "wedge" lift 0 at the rear through to
50 at the front - which is about the limit without having to extend lines
etc etc.
different actual heights ( inspite of the specs ) it pays to check.
31's will also touch the rear of the guards ( where the mudflaps are ) in some circumstances.
Body lift is the answer IMO if you dont want to put ont the butchers apron, lets you have some droop travel at the front and solves the ineer guard
clearance issue. Winding up the torsion bars is quick and easy BUT it
hurts you off road performance. A bit of each is the yay IMO.
In an earlier phase I had a "wedge" lift 0 at the rear through to
50 at the front - which is about the limit without having to extend lines
etc etc.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests