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qten wrote:what did you mean when you said go to learn to drive again?
I would imagen the rear end would be a bit more well "Screetchie" but thats it isnt it?
The car will handle differently offroad with a locked diff - i.e. it will drive where you didn't expect it to, and your car also have a rear end that no longer wants to 'swing around' - it will always try to drive straight.
Gday, i was speaking to a bloke today about welding my rear diff, and he said that he just welds the spider gears together, is this the correct way to do it?
7.. place 4 Hi-tensile bolts/pieces of flat steel , (wat ever you have available) into the gaps between the side gears
I'd be using a mild carbon steel!
Hi tensile, unless welded and correctly heat treated wont adhere nearly aswell, and as for using Hi tensile bolts, what a laugh. I know a guy who initially was told to cut 4 pieces of mild steel to fit, didnt have time to do so. Ended up throwing a high tensile bolt in instead. First 1000metres up the raod and the welds cracked/broke/sheared off and the bolt being high tensile lodged between the crown wheel and the housing, sending him into an uncontrollabnle lockup and spin into the gutter!
Think very carefully about using high tensile bolts or even steel before going ahead with it! Time will tell & heal MOST wounds
1985 LWB Suzuki Sierra, Lock-Rite Rear, SPOA, 2" Body Lift, Climax shackles, Rancho's,
Series 1 Rockhoppers, 31x11.5 MT'S, "To return from the dead very sooooon!"
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