how can i drill and tap diff housing to minimise the amount of swarf entering the diff. would a little bit of swarf be a drama? would it just end up getting caught by the magnet?
I am moving the breather to the top of the pumpkin, when i took the old breather out it was a tapped hole with the diff tube wall about 4mm thick. Should it be ok to put in on top of the diff housing and is the wall the same thickness.
As you can tell i'm trying to avoid having the diff centre out as it's a pain in the arse.
MILO
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drilling diff housings for breathers
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drilling diff housings for breathers
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Don't forget to bend all your flange studs then strip the threads out when your trying to straighten them up.rockcrawler31 wrote:bugger. I was hoping some one would pipe up and tell me a lazy way to do it
Oh well, i'm sure i could do with the practice of pulling out axles and re-doing the flange gaskets
ta dude
Tetanus rolling on 37's
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Neatness - this way i can have the brake flexible line, locker air line, and breather coming from one spot, cable tied together.
Practicality - the pumpkin never seems to move much during articulation so i can have less cables/pipes flapping around particularly during compression to get snagged on stuff
And it's going to get in the way of my coil hats
I have also heard that toyota breathers in the stock position fail to work particularly when on a cross slope because the axle tube that they are on fill with oil and don't allow the air to flow. correct me if i'm wrong.
Practicality - the pumpkin never seems to move much during articulation so i can have less cables/pipes flapping around particularly during compression to get snagged on stuff
And it's going to get in the way of my coil hats
I have also heard that toyota breathers in the stock position fail to work particularly when on a cross slope because the axle tube that they are on fill with oil and don't allow the air to flow. correct me if i'm wrong.
Last edited by rockcrawler31 on Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
que hombre?dogbreath_48 wrote:Don't forget to bend all your flange studs then strip the threads out when your trying to straighten them up.rockcrawler31 wrote:bugger. I was hoping some one would pipe up and tell me a lazy way to do it
Oh well, i'm sure i could do with the practice of pulling out axles and re-doing the flange gaskets
ta dude
this sounds like experience.
i've gotten sick of continually trying to buy flange gaskets. I've had those damn axles out so many times i've resorted to using that blue silicone gasket stuff.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
also magnetizing the drill bits...ferrit wrote:ive heard of grease coated drillbits to catch the swarf and then cleaned off and re-greased reguarly
equate 1/2 an hr to pull the axle out, to how long it would take you to earn the $500 for a diff rebuild (without compromising on lifes other neccesities) if something went wrong?
Cheers,
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
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