Hi all!
I just got an ARB locker (with its air line, solenoid and in-cabin switch) second hand. Now I need to buy the rest of the gear to make it work. What are my options?
I could get the ARB kit. That would include a compressor (the new, smaller and faster one, I presume), in-cabin switches, air lines, and the pressure switch, right? And is that about $300?
Are there any other approaches or parts combinations that anyone could suggest? Would it be practical to try buy a different compressor, and source the rest of the parts from the hardware store? (The mission on hand is to try to save as much $$$ as possible!)
Thanks guys!
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Installing air locker - what are my options?
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Re: Installing air locker - what are my options?
If you plan to use the compressor for anything more than running lockers, you really need something that is going to put out more volume. ARB compressors are good, have great warranties and parts availability, but for pumping up tyre after tyre they fall short of allot of other pumps on the market.jungle_surfer wrote:Hi all!
I just got an ARB locker (with its air line, solenoid and in-cabin switch) second hand. Now I need to buy the rest of the gear to make it work. What are my options?
I could get the ARB kit. That would include a compressor (the new, smaller and faster one, I presume), in-cabin switches, air lines, and the pressure switch, right? And is that about $300?
Are there any other approaches or parts combinations that anyone could suggest? Would it be practical to try buy a different compressor, and source the rest of the parts from the hardware store? (The mission on hand is to try to save as much $$$ as possible!)
Thanks guys!
Depending on what car you have, the most bang for buck compressor is an old air-con pump converted to run as a compressor. IIRC a sanden 508 is as common as you-know-what and is suitable. Should be about $20 from a wrecker (try and get the crimped metal lines on the output side aswell). Failing that, have a look at some of the electronic compressors on the market, obviously if you are trying to keep costs down, then a Max-Air, Twin Tongue etc are out of your budget range. A while ago A4WDM did a write up on compressors, if you know of this have a read, if not i can rummage around and find it for you.
Then you will need a pressure switch ($25 from hobzee on ebay) a check valve ($20 - hobzee - ebay) to prevent back flow through the compressor, a small tank (truck wreckers, C02 fire extinguisher etc - ~$20 if u are prepared to look), a pressure regulator (to drop pressure down for lockers, a few lengths of air pressure hose to connect it all up, and then some smaller diameter nylon air hose to connect the locker which can be bought from most industrial supply shops, or a local pneumatic shop.
With a bit of clever thinking, i reckon you could get away with doing it all for under $150 if you were prepared to do allot of fab yourself and try and use as many bits and pieces you have lying around or scrounging.
Bunnings is starting to stock various amount of fittings etc that you can use, but you would probably be best of going to a place like pirtek, enzed, industrial tool shop (blackwoods, thomas warburton etc) as they would have all the bits there for you, and would probably offer some sort of cash/trade price.
There is tonnes and tonnes of info available on this board, if what i have said above baffles you a bit, do a search and read the bibles as there is probably atleast 5 threads alone on converting air-con pumps, and then setting up on-board air systems.
Cheers,
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Dan.
[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
Continuing the thought... How does this set-up look? I did a bit more reading, and I think this would work. I right?
The relief valve is there so that the pump starts with a low pressure. I guess it isn't really necessary if the air leaks back past the pump once it stops running (or if I got an expensive pump).
Also, I could replace the pressure switch with something higher, and put a regulator somewhere in the line before the solenoid.
Edit: Thanks for all that useful info, Dan!
I hadn't thought about the air conditioner, I'll follow that idea up! I did search the board, but I didn't find much. I probably don't know how to search properly.
The relief valve is there so that the pump starts with a low pressure. I guess it isn't really necessary if the air leaks back past the pump once it stops running (or if I got an expensive pump).
Also, I could replace the pressure switch with something higher, and put a regulator somewhere in the line before the solenoid.
Edit: Thanks for all that useful info, Dan!
I hadn't thought about the air conditioner, I'll follow that idea up! I did search the board, but I didn't find much. I probably don't know how to search properly.
Re: Installing air locker - what are my options?
ARB have just released their new compressor... 70 odd litres per minute. It's in the new 4wd monthly dvd.+dj_hansen+ wrote:If you plan to use the compressor for anything more than running lockers, you really need something that is going to put out more volume. ARB compressors are good, have great warranties and parts availability, but for pumping up tyre after tyre they fall short of allot of other pumps on the market.jungle_surfer wrote:Hi all!
I just got an ARB locker (with its air line, solenoid and in-cabin switch) second hand. Now I need to buy the rest of the gear to make it work. What are my options?
I could get the ARB kit. That would include a compressor (the new, smaller and faster one, I presume), in-cabin switches, air lines, and the pressure switch, right? And is that about $300?
Are there any other approaches or parts combinations that anyone could suggest? Would it be practical to try buy a different compressor, and source the rest of the parts from the hardware store? (The mission on hand is to try to save as much $$$ as possible!)
Thanks guys!
Did you buy this one?- http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ARB-Air-Locker-T ... dZViewItem
Another option, is buying one of ARB's locker only compressors. Less then $200, no good for anything else but locker activation, but if that's all you need the compressor for, it's an option to consider.
They are very small and compact, they also have a premade wiring harness, with the rest of the stuff you need in the box. So will take bugger all to install. Good to if you don't have the space, or want to waste the space with bigger units.
I have one and never had a problem. Due to small size, they only allow 2 activations before the compressor kicks in, as they only have a very small air "tank", but only take a couple of seconds to get back up to pressure.
It's a good simple option, thats not to costly.
They are very small and compact, they also have a premade wiring harness, with the rest of the stuff you need in the box. So will take bugger all to install. Good to if you don't have the space, or want to waste the space with bigger units.
I have one and never had a problem. Due to small size, they only allow 2 activations before the compressor kicks in, as they only have a very small air "tank", but only take a couple of seconds to get back up to pressure.
It's a good simple option, thats not to costly.
If God did not intend for us to eat animals, then why did he make them out of meat?
go to TJM and buy one of their OX PRO LOCKER COMPRESSERS and fitting kit they use the same solenoids and switchs but much better compresser
'05 GU Patrol coil cab ST
6" lift
Tough dogs
Snake Racing drop arms
3rds Rear Arms
Twin ARB air lockers
37" trepadors
ARB bullbar
WARN winch
High flow turbo
3" mandrel bent exhaust
6" lift
Tough dogs
Snake Racing drop arms
3rds Rear Arms
Twin ARB air lockers
37" trepadors
ARB bullbar
WARN winch
High flow turbo
3" mandrel bent exhaust
Yep! Do you have anything to do with that item?RUFF wrote:Did you buy this one?- http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ARB-Air-Locker-T ... dZViewItem
Also, do you know if anything is missing from that item that would normally come in the box?Re: ARB's locker only compressor... I called them today and they are selling that for $175 (includes wiring loom, in-cabin switch and integrated pressure switch and tank). That's quite cheap! I do want to be able to inflate tyres, tho. ARB says that is is not suitable, although a friend has an ARB compressor (the 'small' of two options, apparently) that he got with his lockers a year or two ago, and that pumps tyres up ok. Would these be two different compressors, or are ARB just trying to cover themselves?
Ok, I'll follow that one up tomorrow, any idea on the pricing?rvh96 wrote:go to TJM and buy one of their OX PRO LOCKER COMPRESSERS and fitting kit they use the same solenoids and switchs but much better compresser
BTW, I think using an air conditioner pump as a compressor is really cool, but I don't think I'll find the space next to my engine to mount it!
If I were to get a compressor without the fitting kit (such as a Projecta Typhoon), I'd also need the pressure switch, check valve, tank, in-cabin switches, and wires / air lines / fittings, correct?
They would definantly be different compressors. I wouldn't even contemplate for a second of even attempting to use it for anything but locker operation, which would be the one you were quoted at $175. It's just physically to small for anything but.jungle_surfer wrote:ARB says that is is not suitable, although a friend has an ARB compressor (the 'small' of two options, apparently) that he got with his lockers a year or two ago, and that pumps tyres up ok. Would these be two different compressors, or are ARB just trying to cover themselves?
If God did not intend for us to eat animals, then why did he make them out of meat?
After much thought and reading through lots of posts and comparisons, this is currently my plan:
Get a cheaper pump, since I won't be using it all that often. If I'm going to go on any big safaris, I'll make sure I have a back-up plan. Maybe a Projecta Tornado?
Pump -> check valve -> small tank -> locker solenoid
Also coming off the tank would be:
- a pressure gauge in the cabin (not essential if there is one on the compressor already, but it's nice to know that the pressure switch is working, from inside the cabin).
- a fitting (is it called nitto??) for an air line for other tasks such as airing up tyres
- a pressure switch (100/75psi wired in series with the in-cabin compressor switch) to keep the pressure low enough for the lockers, with an override switch for when I'm doing something like filling tyres, in which case the tank would act as a pressure buffer whenever I stop using the air (such as between tyres), and someone would have to keep an eye on the gauge to make sure it doesn't exceed... maybe 135psi. (I was told a BOV would be about $60)
Q1: See any problems??
Q2: When the pump stops, will the air between the pump and the check valve leak past the pump, so that it won't be starting under pressure the next time it is turned on?
Q3: What type of lines / connectors do compressors and lockers typically come with?
Get a cheaper pump, since I won't be using it all that often. If I'm going to go on any big safaris, I'll make sure I have a back-up plan. Maybe a Projecta Tornado?
Pump -> check valve -> small tank -> locker solenoid
Also coming off the tank would be:
- a pressure gauge in the cabin (not essential if there is one on the compressor already, but it's nice to know that the pressure switch is working, from inside the cabin).
- a fitting (is it called nitto??) for an air line for other tasks such as airing up tyres
- a pressure switch (100/75psi wired in series with the in-cabin compressor switch) to keep the pressure low enough for the lockers, with an override switch for when I'm doing something like filling tyres, in which case the tank would act as a pressure buffer whenever I stop using the air (such as between tyres), and someone would have to keep an eye on the gauge to make sure it doesn't exceed... maybe 135psi. (I was told a BOV would be about $60)
Q1: See any problems??
Q2: When the pump stops, will the air between the pump and the check valve leak past the pump, so that it won't be starting under pressure the next time it is turned on?
Q3: What type of lines / connectors do compressors and lockers typically come with?
Last edited by jungle_surfer on Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
... or maybe a second pressure switch, 135/110psi and manual switch in series, wired in parallel to the 100/75psi switch. Something like this:jungle_surfer wrote: - a pressure switch (100/75psi wired in series with the in-cabin compressor switch) to keep the pressure low enough for the lockers, with an override switch for when I'm doing something like filling tyres, in which case the tank would act as a pressure buffer whenever I stop using the air (such as between tyres), and someone would have to keep an eye on the gauge to make sure it doesn't exceed... maybe 135psi. (I was told a BOV would be about $60)
[compressor]____[100/75]____________________[in cabin manual switch]
| |
|___[135/110]__[manual switch]__|
BTW, I really like the idea of the air con mod, but I had a good look under the bonnet today and I can't figure out where I would fit another air con pump.
Last edited by jungle_surfer on Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I wired it all up, and look at what happened:
That was pretty exciting! I've got burn marks across the top of my battery and along the carpet, and bits of melted plastic stuck to the carpet... I think I made a mistake with the solenoid switch wiring at some point. Is this correct:
Looking at the switch from the back:
- -
-
- -
Two top pins wired together and to earth, middle is 12V in, bottom left is 12V out to solenoid, bottom right is for lighting.
That was pretty exciting! I've got burn marks across the top of my battery and along the carpet, and bits of melted plastic stuck to the carpet... I think I made a mistake with the solenoid switch wiring at some point. Is this correct:
Looking at the switch from the back:
- -
-
- -
Two top pins wired together and to earth, middle is 12V in, bottom left is 12V out to solenoid, bottom right is for lighting.
WIRING
I don't mean to sound all work avoidant here...but ARB does sell a complete wiring loom for that compressor that will:
1 - power the compressor with the correct gage of wire
2 - integrate an automotive relay into the switch bank to keep toggle switches and pressure switches from cooking.
3 - contain switch logic to control your solenoids to run the lockers.
4 - provide a firewall junction terminal plug so you only have to drill an 8mm hole through the steel panel to get to your battery.
5 - offer a complete diagram for troubleshooting any future problems or for retro-connection to other accessories.
6 - contain a proper automotive quality in-line fuse to prevent melt-downs if you should roll your rig and pinch off some wires.
It costs less than the price of just buying that much wire, or it comes for free with an ARB compressor kit.
Even if you did understand how to wire up the circuit, the hours you would save alone would justify buying the loom.
...of course, it would kind of rob you of that whole "I wrecked this myself!" thrill.
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
1 - power the compressor with the correct gage of wire
2 - integrate an automotive relay into the switch bank to keep toggle switches and pressure switches from cooking.
3 - contain switch logic to control your solenoids to run the lockers.
4 - provide a firewall junction terminal plug so you only have to drill an 8mm hole through the steel panel to get to your battery.
5 - offer a complete diagram for troubleshooting any future problems or for retro-connection to other accessories.
6 - contain a proper automotive quality in-line fuse to prevent melt-downs if you should roll your rig and pinch off some wires.
It costs less than the price of just buying that much wire, or it comes for free with an ARB compressor kit.
Even if you did understand how to wire up the circuit, the hours you would save alone would justify buying the loom.
...of course, it would kind of rob you of that whole "I wrecked this myself!" thrill.
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
umm yeah, dead short somewhere, if you made that kind of a mistake, please go and buy the small air locker only compressor from arb $250 and you get the loom for free, and if you follow the instructions then no BBQ 4WD to worry about, and the end result is neat, tidy and reliable!
i tried your path (i am one to try things myself) but in the end thier compressor has all the holes in the right places and makes the whole lot a lot neater with less things to stuff up.
if you want to infalte tyres go for the boigger arb comp. or an endless air or CO2 setup.
i tried your path (i am one to try things myself) but in the end thier compressor has all the holes in the right places and makes the whole lot a lot neater with less things to stuff up.
if you want to infalte tyres go for the boigger arb comp. or an endless air or CO2 setup.
[quote="75 cruser"]we want more donkey[/quote]
Actually the small one (CKSA12) comes with a loom designed to suit the reduced power requirements of that 10 amp unit, which means no fuse, no relay, and smaller gage wire.bigcam wrote:umm yeah, dead short somewhere, if you made that kind of a mistake, please go and buy the small air locker only compressor from arb $250 and you get the loom for free, and if you follow the instructions then no BBQ 4WD to worry about, and the end result is neat, tidy and reliable!
The RDCKA compressor came with a 30 amp loom. (180407)
The new CKMA12 & CKMA24 compressors come with a 40 amp loom (180409)
Highly recommend the 40 amp loom. It's gaged-up to audiophile standards, including fully soldered junctions and a HUGE in-line Maxi-Fuse.
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
The CKSA12 harness has a fuse in it for the power lead. Well mine did atleast.dbongard wrote:Actually the small one (CKSA12) comes with a loom designed to suit the reduced power requirements of that 10 amp unit, which means no fuse, no relay, and smaller gage wire.
If God did not intend for us to eat animals, then why did he make them out of meat?
Your installer may have added one.r0ck_m0nkey wrote:The CKSA12 harness has a fuse in it for the power lead. Well mine did atleast.
Here is a link to the diagrams:
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-08.pdf
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
I installed it myself and all i know is it had a fuse.dbongard wrote:Your installer may have added one.r0ck_m0nkey wrote:The CKSA12 harness has a fuse in it for the power lead. Well mine did atleast.
Here is a link to the diagrams:
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-08.pdf
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
Last edited by r0ck_m0nkey on Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
If God did not intend for us to eat animals, then why did he make them out of meat?
If that is the case I would say his installer is smarter than the guys at ARB who designed it.. it is folly not having a fuse in ANY vehicle power circutdbongard wrote:Your installer may have added one.r0ck_m0nkey wrote:The CKSA12 harness has a fuse in it for the power lead. Well mine did atleast.
Here is a link to the diagrams:
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-08.pdf
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
Right...flame me for trying to help.love_mud wrote:If that is the case I would say his installer is smarter than the guys at ARB who designed it.. it is folly not having a fuse in ANY vehicle power circut
OK, I'll bite.
The smaller CKSA12 unit only draws 8 amps on average which makes it perfectly safe to plug into or connect behind your cigarette lighter type accessory points which are fused at 15 amps. The power line in the loom is fitted with an obvious warning sticker requiring that the positive supply lead be only connected to a source that is fused at 15 amps.
The small compressor is ultra durable and inexpensive compared to anything else on the market in it's size range. Why would you want to pay for a fuse that is not required?
Daniel
AIR LOCKER
jungle_surfer wrote:I wired it all up, and look at what happened:
That was pretty exciting! I've got burn marks across the top of my battery and along the carpet, and bits of melted plastic stuck to the carpet... I think I made a mistake with the solenoid switch wiring at some point. Is this correct:
Looking at the switch from the back:
- -
-
- -
Two top pins wired together and to earth, middle is 12V in, bottom left is 12V out to solenoid, bottom right is for lighting.
That is fcuking hilarious......... welcome to the club mate, we've all done it once.....
I commend your honesty..........
ps. as chance would have it, i just pulled out my locker wiring harness an hour ago.
you can have it.. you've earnt it.......pm me.....
pps. it even comes with a fuse
innovation is better, better is faster, and fast is all that counts
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