Turbo Petrol oil lines

[Spartacus]

Im after information on the oil lines to turbo a 1fz-fe.

Does the oil feed get attached to the sender on the block?
If not where else can i go from.

Where to i take the drain to?
Prefer to leave the sump alone, but will most likely have to tap it wont I?

So far ive turboed my diesel with a kit, so im using it as a guide.

cheers, Mull

[high n mighty]

You are right about turboing a diesel, you can find galleries to put the oil drain back into though apparently.

I have no idea if it is different on a petrol though.

[MS-75]

You can pull oil off the sender port, but the flow is a little low.

Better is to tap oil off the oil cooler passages that are accessable on the outside of the block on the oil cooler cover.

I've had mine plumbed into the upper sump for the drain-but I'm not sure if there is a point to drain into on the block. I have a block on the floor of the shed at the moment so I'll have a look for you.

Drop me a PM if you like.

Cheers
Sean

[Spartacus]

alrighty i pulle dthis of ih8mud:

FAQ: Turbo Oil Lines (feed and drain) Primer.
________________________________________
Lots of info out there, but I'll reference a post I found while searching other sites.

Oil Feed:

Tapping the sending unit - this is one of the more common methods of
getting oil to the turbo.
There has always been a bit of contention re: the OPSU's thread and
pitch size...


The sending unit IS BPT - however, it’s so negligible a difference, that you
can absolutely
thread it into an NPT tee, and thread that tee into the block. Use a bit of
high temp, fuel safe
Teflon tape on the threads, and you'll be golden.

For the uninitiated, this is the YELLOW Teflon.
White Teflon will dissolve under continued exposure to heat and
petroleum.


LINES: after messing with -6AN for a while, and various reducers, to get it
down to an
acceptable level (its what was laying around, from a fuel setup) - I recently redid
everything with -3AN. Use SS braided, fuel/oil safe lines. Do it right, do it once.

Everything you need can be purchased here:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=OIL


http://www.turbo-supply.com

Anyways, just to keep things centralized, here's what you need from ATP -
feel free to substitute your own stuff, as MOST of the brass fittings can
be found at home depot, or other retailers, for less money...except the
npt-->AN adapters.

1/8" NPT tee
8.25 ATP price... way high, these can be found for 3.29 at a Lowes or
Home Depot. Note: for this to work, it HAS to be a M-F-F tee. There are m-
m-f tees that simply won't do the job without introducing more adapters
(more possible leak points down the line)

-3AN to 1/8 NPT adapter - NOTE: they can be straight and bent - read
on... You will need one on BOTH ends of the AN line, 1 for the sending
unit side, and 1 for the turbo, if you are using a Garrett turbo, that is. On
the sending unit side- you thread the tee into the block. I used some
loctite. DO NOT DO THIS. the fittings are brass, unless you're lucky
enough to find someone who stocks them in harder materials. BRASS
FITTINGS BREAK EASILY IF YOU TRY TO UNSCREW THEM WHEN YOU
HAVE LOCTITE ON THEIR THREADS!!!!! - at least, do not use the RED
loctite.
Green or blue should be ok, but you'll need to add heat to break it
free (reason I didn’t use it is because it kind of defeats the purpose.
these components are always hot.)

do yourselves a favor and find HIGH TEMP TEFLON.. used for oil lines in
homes, or gas pipes, etc... it should be yellow, not the standard water
pipe white Teflon tape.


anyways thread the tee into the block, with a female end facing up...
throw your STRAIGHT -3AN adapter into this end.. the other end.. well it
gets tricky here.. really depends on your setup, how you have the turbo
clocked, etc... depending on where your inlet winds up, you'll need to use
a straight or 45 degree. fitting.... Or in cases like mine, a 90 degree,
however... good luck finding one. If, like my setup, you don't have the
hood clearance to run a 45 degree without kinking the line, then use a
m-f 1/8" npt 90* elbow - available at home depot... plenty on the shelves,
even here in nyc... and then use a regular straight AN adapter, linked
above. I used some red loctite on these as well.. again do not do this
unless you are 100% sure on what you are doing. DO NOT LOCTITE
ANYTHING TO THE TURBO OIL INLET. it will suck when the fitting breaks,
trust me. Use only Teflon and/or rtv.

Next on the list is the actual oil feed line.. Again I would recommend
http://www.turbo-supply.com - he hooked me up nicely - 32.00 shipped
for a 36" -3AN line, with the AN-NPT adapters linked above, as well as the
tee linked above.

HOWEVER, if you wish to shop ATP instead, here’s a link. at least you can
use ATP as a resource for visuals on what you should get, even if you can
get it elsewhere.

-3AN line


now lastly is the oil inlet restrictor.. absolutely necessary on a Garrett
turbo if running -4AN, as our native oil pressures are too high. with the -
3AN, I ran it sans restrictor for quite a while without any new oil blowing
into my intake tract.. I didn’t have nearly the problems I had when I was
running a -6AN feed line (lol, I know, I know!) even with a restrictor on
the -6AN.

I definitely say -3 instead of -4 because a> it’s cheaper.. b> less likely to
kink (yes even SS braided CAN GET KINKED) and c> a little extra
protection against turbo-killing oil pressures. Try to blow through a -3AN
line, vs. a -4... it’s much harder to do so... which means oil will have a
harder time getting through it as well. It’s all about volume.


DRAIN LINE:

firstly... unless your turbo came with it - BUY A DAMN FLANGE. just do it..
I’ve tried the DIY solutions too many times where it comes to drainage,
and you know what.. spend the 15$ for a flange, gasket, and bolts. that
too can be had on ATP - but I’ve found it to be much cheaper on eBay,
then spend 2.19 at home depot for a 5/8" barbed adapter... Don't bother
with heater core, silicone, or other type of rubber or coated hose.. IT’S
NOT WORTH IT. The line will kink when hot, so keep that in mind. It will
also eventually eat through, and make the inside sludgy. Do yourself the
favor and buy a -10AN aero quip or similar OIL RATED stainless steel
braided line that you can use with barbed fittings... OR forego the
aforementioned barbed adapter and just get the -10AN screw in
connector, whichever fits your drain flange.

You'll have to have the oil pan tapped... just have a 5/8" brazed/flared
end welded on, maybe an inch long and you're good. a little more
expensive, and harder to fit (but worth it to some) would be a threaded
AN fitting, to allow for -10AN line.

beyond that - use as many screw clamps as needed to ensure nothing
pops off, and use as many metal zip ties (great for use with your header
wrap also, but its cheaper to use clamps for the header wrap ) as
needed to tie things up/tuck them out of the way. if you use plastic zip
ties, they WILL melt, or get brittle and pop. go metal. be it these metal
ties, or cheaper metal strapping, etc... trust me

other options are eBay "kits" which are pretty darn complete... you'll
need a longer drain line, obviously... as well as the restrictor, and
whatever else you don’t see in the pics.. but it IS a decent 1-stop
solution, with just a few misc items to buy... but it costs more than you
can piece it together yourself for... buyer's choice on this one... If I were
starting out, I would probably go this route, and get some longer length of
5/8 or -10AN drain line.

Obviously, if you tap a different spot for the oil, you'll need to get the
necessary reducers, from 3/8BPT to 1/8"... but for the most part, the
formula remains the same.