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80 series buying advice (topics not covered) ?????

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 80
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80 series buying advice (topics not covered) ?????

Post by terra88 »

hey all now seriously looking for an 80 series gxl aroung the 12k mark ... still got some questions though...

#1 is it true after 1993 they had bigger better brakes if so what month did they start also with the bigger brakes can you fit 15x8 sunnies or are you stuck with the 16's...

#2 can you do a 4" body lift as I have 4" blocks from my terrano, any problems with body mounts etc , whats with moving the radiator, any pics..

# 3what is the best suspension lift keeping it still a good daily driver but looking tuff as well, can you do a 4" but what parts will I need ie adj panhards etc, I know I will need offset bushes or plates at the front but what else should I prepare to replace...

#4 what are the 4.0 litre EFI motors like compared to the 4.5 twin cam..

#5 can the autos tow car trailers etc without worries

#6 in general what are some common points to look for when looking at a second hand one (rust spots etc etc)

thanks in advance .... :armsup:
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....

[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
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Re: 80 series buying advice (topics not covered) ?????

Post by mud4b »

terra88 wrote:hey all now seriously looking for an 80 series gxl aroung the 12k mark ... still got some questions though...

#1 is it true after 1993 they had bigger better brakes if so what month did they start also with the bigger brakes can you fit 15x8 sunnies or are you stuck with the 16's...

#2 can you do a 4" body lift as I have 4" blocks from my terrano, any problems with body mounts etc , whats with moving the radiator, any pics..

# 3what is the best suspension lift keeping it still a good daily driver but looking tuff as well, can you do a 4" but what parts will I need ie adj panhards etc, I know I will need offset bushes or plates at the front but what else should I prepare to replace...

#4 what are the 4.0 litre EFI motors like compared to the 4.5 twin cam..

#5 can the autos tow car trailers etc without worries

#6 in general what are some common points to look for when looking at a second hand one (rust spots etc etc)

thanks in advance .... :armsup:
#1 not sure on month but yes you are correct, they do only fit 16" rims unless you buzz a few mm off the calipers.

#2 are you kidding me, i even thought you would know that.. it is illegal and unsafe... my radiator lifted with the body, or you can make drop down bars and lower it into std position from flatbar.

#3 for a 4" lift you will need degree bushes or castor plates and adjustable panhards. tough dog is a great kit for the 80 or even the procomp kit is very good also.

#4 if you go petty go the 4.5.. there is no comparisson between the 2.

#5 if you go the td or the 4.5 with a auto it is (in my opinion) way better and easier to tow. they will do it all day with ease.

#6... one common point is saggy door hingers... for some reason you never really see too much rust in 80 series, if there is it is usually under the rear top tailgate rubber and the corner of the rear floor and the front inner guard towards the door where it bolts on.

cheers mark
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
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Post by terra88 »

thanks
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Post by dow50r »

when the 4.5 was introduced 8/1992, the brakes got bigger, drive plates larger, std electro auto is bulletproof, for 12k you can easily get one, try to get 95 plus if you want to gas it, better efi....nicer dash, nicer fabric, the best 4.5 is a 40th annaversary 1997 model and they are as low as 12k these days.
Posts: 80
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Post by terra88 »

dow50r wrote:when the 4.5 was introduced 8/1992, the brakes got bigger, drive plates larger, std electro auto is bulletproof, for 12k you can easily get one, try to get 95 plus if you want to gas it, better efi....nicer dash, nicer fabric, the best 4.5 is a 40th annaversary 1997 model and they are as low as 12k these days.

thanx mate thats exactly what i needed to know :D
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....

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Post by Punchy »

i think everyone has covered what you may need to know
But here's a bit etra and may save you some dollars and effort if your fussy like me

if you go a TD factory ask questions about when was the last time someone checked the big end bearings. And you want full service historyto support their claim

toyota whilst they deny a fault ever existed, used to at some dealer ships, slip the sump off and throw a set of big ends in at the 100k service.

I did mine, thank god i caught it in time, been perfect ever since.

Dont listen to all the hype about having to get injectors and pumps done. I spent all the money on that crap for very little in return.

Do the tune up first with what you got, then negotiate what extra returns you MAY get with extra maintenance be carried out on your diesel


Little problems you may find..

1/ seat foam collapses - send to upholsters to fix - $250 rrp-

2/ Front seat bolts captured nuts tear out of the floor - strip interior and repair

3/ pre 93 model transfer cases full time 4x4 dont have the internals as the later trucks particularly the "sprag" clutch to reduce drive train snatch in the centre diff ( correct me if im wrong)..

4/ ihdt factory manual boxes have an unko 2nd/3rd gear internals. these usually lead to up shift / down shift crunching if the oil is tho thick in the box, and unfortunately with age, become the nature of the beast. you learn to drive around it and the snatch in the earlier boxes.

5/ I have found in general Auto versions (petrol and diesel) have premature wear on the front diffs and they start to sing due to the pinion / crown wheel mesh, Funtionally fine but the noise can get to you on long trips.

6/ Grab a hold of the passenger dash grab handle and feel for excessive movment in the dash.. If so have a look around the bottom of the dash. you will see the bottom mounts for the dash there. They are spot welded on only. Sometime if this is the only area to go a drill and pop rivet does the trick. If its moving around the top of the dash, it all needs comming out and repair all the broken spot welded dash mounts. ( this is a Cookie to do )

7/ electric mirrors are generally good untill you smash tme into a tree
-Or after exposure to the elements the bottom retaining screw mount (internal plastic thing) perishes and the mirror falls out - Liquid nails to fix this - if the motor or electrics or gearbox in it is RS
$350 rrp to replace - chrome or black

8/ i suppose most believe that 80's dont rust. They do tho just like all the others, i think its more the fact when people bought 80's the fell in love with them and gave them the due care required to preserve them longer.
Gave it a hug at night before parking it, sprayed them with lanolin before going on the beach etc etc..
If you do however come across one that looks rough, it probly is and should be left alone in case it comes back to bite you. Unless you can get it for a steal and have the time and cash to tidy her up or put some nice rock rash on her to keep BJ happy :armsup:

9/ rear gas struts loss their gas - replace or regas - $40- $120
I only mention this cause its a pain in the arse to keep it up with your heads wihile stickking a esky full of fish in the back

10/ check for captured nuts broken off in the back tailgate where to metal hinge pivots go onto. Its pretty obvious if they are stuffed - bit of a pain to fix

hope some of these pointers help you in you search for a clean truck..
45 series ute - 308 -gas -35's- lifted -no flex..But i got air lockers !

2006 VX v8 4.7 Landcruiser, bog stock. It's black so its cool !
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Post by bj on roids »

well done punchy!

I just bought one:

Drivers seatbelt wouldnt release, new one, non-firing, pretty easy fix.

Drivers door catch mech, worn, adjusted height now the door light alert on dash switches off.

Drivers window track has busted the weld at the bottom, will rivet it up on weekend, need a 90deg drill head thing, it makes the window a little tight to wind down.

3rd Gear grinds hard core on any down shift :(

Heat and cold slide switch has jammed, they all seem to seize up, needs a fair bit of re-work, dash out to do it.
hands and mums dont count!!!
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Post by BEE-JAY »

If you buy an auto and you plan to tow with it install an oil cooler, it is very cheap insurance to prevent a very expensive rebuild.
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Post by mud4b »

BEE-JAY wrote:If you buy an auto and you plan to tow with it install an oil cooler, it is very cheap insurance to prevent a very expensive rebuild.

i know sahara autos have a std oil cooler, do the other models not come with one?
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 5:41 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD

Post by terra88 »

dow50r wrote:when the 4.5 was introduced 8/1992, the brakes got bigger, drive plates larger, std electro auto is bulletproof, for 12k you can easily get one, try to get 95 plus if you want to gas it, better efi....nicer dash, nicer fabric, the best 4.5 is a 40th annaversary 1997 model and they are as low as 12k these days.
hey mate, how is the 95 motor different, looking at a 95 GXL 4.5 auto for 12k.. looks smick, elec seats etc but high klms 350,000 ...
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....

[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 5:41 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD

Post by terra88 »

BEE-JAY wrote:If you buy an auto and you plan to tow with it install an oil cooler, it is very cheap insurance to prevent a very expensive rebuild.
looked at a 95 gxl and it had a cooler std ???
Its NOT A FORD Its a NISSAN ....

[url=http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2292&im=1]92MAV[/url]
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