need help: what mods to run 35" on a HZJ75

[hzj75]

I need abit of advise on what mods I would need to run a set of 35" tyres on a HZJ75 cruiser

at the moment all I have done to the suspension is a set of 2" extended snake racing shackles as for the rest it is stock standard..

to fit the 35" under the guard what else would I need to do????

[75 cruser]

should just bolt up mate, snake do a spacer plate to move the diff foward about 25mm just to help with guard clearance at the back of the arch

thanks rob

[RAY185]

should just bolt up mate, snake do a spacer plate to move the diff foward about 25mm just to help with guard clearance at the back of the arch

thanks rob

Really? On a 1 inch raised 75 I would have thought at least some guard chopping or a body lift.

[bushwalker]

hey man i got a hzj75 got standard shackles 2in springs, 2in bodylift i run 35 12.5 16 on 16 x 10 rims and it dont scrub anywhere

[Alpine Hunter]

When I first had my 35s I had only a 2" spring lift. They rubbed on the top of the front guard and on the chassis rail in the rear. The chassis rail isnt a problem but the round crossmember that sticks out about 10-15mm will take chunks out of your tyre. I have ground mine down a bit - dont go overboard though. I only ground them back to the welds and didnt affect the structural welds at all. Using rims with a different offset would help too.
As others told me a spring lift wont help clear rubber when you are flexing up. If you are still hitting the bump stops you are in the same situation as hitting the bumpstops with standard springs. It is only on level ground that a spring lift will help clear rubber.
You may also contact the rear of the front guards. Mine doesnt but others have and either move the diff forward an inch or so or cut the guard.
Others have had problems with hitting front springs and steering components. You can adjust your steering full lock position to stop this though.
Mine also rubbed on the extractors where they cut through the corner of the font drivers side guard. Mine is currently getting this rectified. She is turboed now so no longer need extractors and the new 3" will be tucked out of the way.
I also have a 2" body lift which has stopped all contact with the body in the front guards.
So now with a 2" body lift I only touch on the rear chassis which doesnt seem to be causing any problems now that it has been ground back slightly.

[Guy]

When I first had my 35s I had only a 2" spring lift. They rubbed on the top of the front guard and on the chassis rail in the rear. The chassis rail isnt a problem but the round crossmember that sticks out about 10-15mm will take chunks out of your tyre. I have ground mine down a bit - dont go overboard though. I only ground them back to the welds and didnt affect the structural welds at all. Using rims with a different offset would help too.
As others told me a spring lift wont help clear rubber when you are flexing up. If you are still hitting the bump stops you are in the same situation as hitting the bumpstops with standard springs. It is only on level ground that a spring lift will help clear rubber.
You may also contact the rear of the front guards. Mine doesnt but others have and either move the diff forward an inch or so or cut the guard.
Others have had problems with hitting front springs and steering components. You can adjust your steering full lock position to stop this though.
Mine also rubbed on the extractors where they cut through the corner of the font drivers side guard. Mine is currently getting this rectified. She is turboed now so no longer need extractors and the new 3" will be tucked out of the way.
I also have a 2" body lift which has stopped all contact with the body in the front guards.
So now with a 2" body lift I only touch on the rear chassis which doesnt seem to be causing any problems now that it has been ground back slightly.

why not put in a small bumpstop spacer ? to stop the rub in the rear .

[Alpine Hunter]

why not put in a small bumpstop spacer ? to stop the rub in the rear .

To be honest I hadnt even thought of that. I will have to check to see how much I need to add. I guess I will get a slight increase in travel by grinding that crossmember and adding spacers than without grinding so it wasnt a wasted exersize.