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RUFF wrote:You mean fitting it again after you have finished wheeling? Find a flat area and you may also need a high lift to jack the vehicle up to get it lined up again. But you will need to do this even if you used your original idea.
No,I mean to install a fixed length one once I make it...my old one is bent,so I can't go off that,as it was pulling the diff to one side-and my steering too for some reason! was a good quater of a turn left
Stock-man wrote:No,I mean to install a fixed length one once I make it...my old one is bent,so I can't go off that,as it was pulling the diff to one side-and my steering too for some reason! was a good quater of a turn left
Yes i would sit it on level ground with the steering straight and current panhard removed and take a measurment. And make it to that length. Your steering moved when the panhard bent because when it bent it also made the distance between your steering box and the LH steering arm on the diff shorter.
You could also take a few other measurments from the frame rails to the opsite side of the front diff somewhere to make sure the frame is centred over the front axle before measuring for the length of the panhard.
personally that car drives better on and offroad with a panhard in the front.
the original panhard rod was on an angle and when the truck hit a bump or dip on road it would shoot across the lane because the diff was being pushed sideways and effectivly turning the wheels.
I cut the old brackets off and put the square pipe in there so that when the car was on flat ground the panhard was level, making its effect on bump steering less.
when the car was in tuff truck I considered taking it out, but the effectiveness of the steering it lost. the front of the car would move a couple of inches before the tires and when jammed up it didn't turn as well.
so I left it in for tuff truck.
it did hinder its ramp score, because I had to drive the drivers side up and it limited the passenger side drop, they wouldnt let me drive the passenger side up and let the drivers side drop without hinder from the bar.
if you take the panhard out and fly through the bush you have to anticipate cornering a bit more.
in short, you will gain a bit more travel and possibly not flog the shackle bushes by the constant push and pull of the panhard. but coil cars have them and they last a fair while,
but your truck won't handle as well and the steering will suck.
the bolt idea is not cool. the same amount of work in disconnecting the two bolts in the panhard as it is disconnecting one on the diff.
dont make the dissconnect on the chassis like you were talking about, do it on the diff.
Cheers RUF,that's what I wanted to know.
germo,thanks for the advice mate! I don't "fly" through the bush anyway...you should know how low it's geared with the Rockhoppers! Re the Tuff Truck thing,I can understand why you left it in for the comp,as with the hubs locked in,it turns bad enough allready-let alone with no p/hard....but for fun out the bush,I'd prefer to have it disconnected I reckon.
I was thinking of pulling the whole thing out,but I guess a disconnect on the diff end would do...and weld on a little bracket up higher to pin it to.
Thanks all,I've finally figured out what I'm going to do
Re the Tuff Truck thing,I can understand why you left it in for the comp,as with the hubs locked in,it turns bad enough allready-let alone with no p/hard....but for fun out the bush,I'd prefer to have it disconnected I reckon.
