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CT20 not boosting at all ... until it was rebuilt
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
CT20 not boosting at all ... until it was rebuilt
About 3 months ago my old CT20 started leaking oil in a big way, so I got myslef an ebay special (rebuilt supposedly) CT20 for a couple of hundred..
20,000K's later (well this morning) it seems like i ceased up for a moment as I was headed down the hiway to work as I had no boost at all (boost guage was showing a neg figure).
When I replaced the turbo I pulled the oil feed line and soaked it in degreaser and used a small bottle brush make sure there was no oil "gunk" clogging it up and flushed it with petrol until it ran clean.
I need my dudlux to get to and from work as I have no other way of getting there. so i cant afford for it to be off the road for days while the CT20 is reco'd and I dont want to throw good money after bad..
20,000K's later (well this morning) it seems like i ceased up for a moment as I was headed down the hiway to work as I had no boost at all (boost guage was showing a neg figure).
When I replaced the turbo I pulled the oil feed line and soaked it in degreaser and used a small bottle brush make sure there was no oil "gunk" clogging it up and flushed it with petrol until it ran clean.
I need my dudlux to get to and from work as I have no other way of getting there. so i cant afford for it to be off the road for days while the CT20 is reco'd and I dont want to throw good money after bad..
Last edited by Guy on Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
pull the intake hose off and feel the comp wheel (when engine cold) is it seized? if so you know what to do (reco).
if you can spin it with your fingers pretty freely, check the wastegate actuator hasnt fallen off the flap (causing the wastegate to be open all the time and no boost)
if they both seem ok, then check not just your boost guage has come adrift? ct20's normally whine like a woman so you should be able to hear if it is at least trying to spool. but you should notice the drop in power if it is seized as not only do you have no boost you have one hell of an intake and exhaust restriction!.
good luck, there was a guy on here with some ct20's for sale (FastEddie) for cheap, buy them and send one off to get rebuilt, then change over (car off the road for an afternoon,) if yours is seized dissconnect the wastegate (free up the exhaust a bit) and keep driving it, it will be a slug but sill still get you to work. and your turbo is buggered anyway so you cant stuff it twice!!
cheers
cam
if you can spin it with your fingers pretty freely, check the wastegate actuator hasnt fallen off the flap (causing the wastegate to be open all the time and no boost)
if they both seem ok, then check not just your boost guage has come adrift? ct20's normally whine like a woman so you should be able to hear if it is at least trying to spool. but you should notice the drop in power if it is seized as not only do you have no boost you have one hell of an intake and exhaust restriction!.
good luck, there was a guy on here with some ct20's for sale (FastEddie) for cheap, buy them and send one off to get rebuilt, then change over (car off the road for an afternoon,) if yours is seized dissconnect the wastegate (free up the exhaust a bit) and keep driving it, it will be a slug but sill still get you to work. and your turbo is buggered anyway so you cant stuff it twice!!
cheers
cam
[quote="75 cruser"]we want more donkey[/quote]
Standard boost 7psi, when it stopped boosting it actually showed about 2psi neg pressure, I guess as the motor had to pull air around the stationary impellor)
But the mystery continues, I started it up to drive home and low and behold it was running perfect 7psi on the gauge and no odd noises.
So I got home and pulled it all down to find tha small bit of coked up old oil restricting the oil feed .. but it is on the engine side of the gasket, there is minimal free play in the bearing's on the turbo ( I have an IHI turbo that has been properly reconditioned that I was planning to install next month after I get a few projects around the house done to keep the love and kiss's happy). I have been changing the oil quite regurarly at around 6000K intervals, using penrite diesel. The turbo is water cooled and as the coked up bit was on the engine side of the gasket I assume it came from that side not the turbo side (there was no evidence of any coking at all around the turbo core suggesting that it has not been at all overheated)
So in the meantime it appers to be OK .. sometimes I wish it would go kaboom so I had an excuse to swap the bugger out for a decent donk .. I just never know if I can trust it 100% . Or maybe I will do noting save my $$ and trade it in on something newer.
But the mystery continues, I started it up to drive home and low and behold it was running perfect 7psi on the gauge and no odd noises.
So I got home and pulled it all down to find tha small bit of coked up old oil restricting the oil feed .. but it is on the engine side of the gasket, there is minimal free play in the bearing's on the turbo ( I have an IHI turbo that has been properly reconditioned that I was planning to install next month after I get a few projects around the house done to keep the love and kiss's happy). I have been changing the oil quite regurarly at around 6000K intervals, using penrite diesel. The turbo is water cooled and as the coked up bit was on the engine side of the gasket I assume it came from that side not the turbo side (there was no evidence of any coking at all around the turbo core suggesting that it has not been at all overheated)
So in the meantime it appers to be OK .. sometimes I wish it would go kaboom so I had an excuse to swap the bugger out for a decent donk .. I just never know if I can trust it 100% . Or maybe I will do noting save my $$ and trade it in on something newer.
Pretty important dude .. ya know, happy wife .. happy life !love_mud wrote: I was planning to install next month after I get a few projects around the house done to keep the love and kiss's happy).
I recomend do it sooner .. I do at 2500 - 3000 km .. mineral oil of course.love_mud wrote: I have been changing the oil quite regurarly at around 6000K intervals, using penrite diesel.
HJ-60 2H-T Intercoled [url=http://4x4panama.com/foros/viewtopic.php?t=2770]Tencha[/url]
HDJ-80 1HD-T Stock so far " Marilu "
Panama
HDJ-80 1HD-T Stock so far " Marilu "
Panama
I do alot of kilometers ever day.. every 2500 to 3000 means I would be spending another $70-$80 per month on oil ... every three years I could recondition the motor.Tapage wrote:Pretty important dude .. ya know, happy wife .. happy life !love_mud wrote: I was planning to install next month after I get a few projects around the house done to keep the love and kiss's happy).
I recomend do it sooner .. I do at 2500 - 3000 km .. mineral oil of course.love_mud wrote: I have been changing the oil quite regurarly at around 6000K intervals, using penrite diesel.
love_mud wrote:I do alot of kilometers ever day.. every 2500 to 3000 means I would be spending another $70-$80 per month on oil ... every three years I could recondition the motor.Tapage wrote:Pretty important dude .. ya know, happy wife .. happy life !love_mud wrote: I was planning to install next month after I get a few projects around the house done to keep the love and kiss's happy).
I recomend do it sooner .. I do at 2500 - 3000 km .. mineral oil of course.love_mud wrote: I have been changing the oil quite regurarly at around 6000K intervals, using penrite diesel.
that's a lots of time driving .. !
HJ-60 2H-T Intercoled [url=http://4x4panama.com/foros/viewtopic.php?t=2770]Tencha[/url]
HDJ-80 1HD-T Stock so far " Marilu "
Panama
HDJ-80 1HD-T Stock so far " Marilu "
Panama
OK before I drive the dudlux off a cliff, I have stupidly decided to rebuild the turbo (As I got an entire rebuild kit for $125 delivered with all seals, gaskets and bearings and seal plates)
Now i need to find someone to fit it .. or the correct tool to remove the left hand threaded funny looking nut that holds the compressor fan on the unit .. anyone know what I should be asking for ?
I figure I can sell a complete 2lt with a working turbo for more than I can sell a 2lt with a dud turbo.
Now i need to find someone to fit it .. or the correct tool to remove the left hand threaded funny looking nut that holds the compressor fan on the unit .. anyone know what I should be asking for ?
I figure I can sell a complete 2lt with a working turbo for more than I can sell a 2lt with a dud turbo.
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Well the turbo is rebuilt, EGT guage fitted and the hilux is back in operational shape..
what a difference, while it was running around De-Turbo'd I upped the fuel a tiny bit (turned the fuel screw one 6th of a turn).
A hill that previously I had to drop back to 4th for I crested this morning at 110 Kph and still accelerating. I was very impressed. EGTs were well within safe limits at about 1050F or about 560C (probe is pre turbo just between the turbo and piston no two as I could no mount it exactly where I wanted to right in the the middle of where the turbo bolts up)
I may not have to drive it off a cliff after all. It is almost driveable now.
All it needs now is some muddies and a power steering pump and I can install crossowver steering (I have everything else I need to do crossover)
what a difference, while it was running around De-Turbo'd I upped the fuel a tiny bit (turned the fuel screw one 6th of a turn).
A hill that previously I had to drop back to 4th for I crested this morning at 110 Kph and still accelerating. I was very impressed. EGTs were well within safe limits at about 1050F or about 560C (probe is pre turbo just between the turbo and piston no two as I could no mount it exactly where I wanted to right in the the middle of where the turbo bolts up)
I may not have to drive it off a cliff after all. It is almost driveable now.
All it needs now is some muddies and a power steering pump and I can install crossowver steering (I have everything else I need to do crossover)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
The turbo rebuild was dead simple.. I could do another in about 30mins I reckon (of course this was no "re-balanaced" afterward) but I did mark everything as I took it apart. I used a small scribe to mark the tip of the turbo shaft, the nut and the compressor wheel so it could all be put back together the same.+dj_hansen+ wrote:Awesome Guy, how hard was the turbo rebuild...?
Everyone is going to ask... pics?
The hardest part is getting the giant circlips on an off.
Unfortunatley I was watching the AFL grandfinal at the same time and have a couple of cold ones so no pics.
I made sure that everything was spotless before I reassembled I cleaned averything with bronze wool. I used cam shaft assembly lube when I was putting it back together as I didnt want the turbo to spin on dry bearings before oil got pumped up to it.
The rebuild kit I used came from this guy on Ebay "anythingturbo" (price was way way better than anything I could find in Aus, if I were to purchase another second hand turbo I would put new seals and bearing in it as a matter of course after this experiance)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Circlip pliers to take it apart and put it back together make sure they strongish as the circlip on the compressor housing is quite large, and it is a long way between the eyes (my circlip pliers would not open far enough .. so I used my trusty needle nose pliers on my Leatherman)davec wrote:thats great news,mine lets oil through,would prefer to do it myself,turbo works fine so im hopin seals etc will fix it,emailed the bloke today on ebay about postage,quoted $15us i think,any tricks to it love mud?
cheers dave
High temp anti sieze I used silver, but perhaps should have used nickel as it has the highest temp rating (for reassembly if you ever need to take it apart again) an 8mm spanner for the compressor nut (left hand thread) and keep it all very clean on reassembly.
The exhasut housing may not want to come off the turbo core .. it took several wacks with a dead blow mallett to get it to come loose (others have used a small mash hammer .. but I am not a fan of wacking cast parts like that .. they tend to crack to easily for my liking)
If you get lost with re-assembly http://www.melett.com/turbo-parts-catal ... a-ct20.pdf has a great exploded diagram of the CT20. You will get two "piston rings" with your kit .. the smaller one is not used AFIK in the diesal CT20. But that was just my observation.
If I think of anything else I will pop it up
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
I am thinking of hunting down another exhasut housing for my old one ( the bearings were stuffed and the cracks around the wastegate massive. ) The turbo I recently rebuilt was only $250 for the whole lot including mainfolds etc.sniper wrote:good work.
Pitty you didnt get any pics but.
Would of mae a good build section for all the surf owners
Get another bearing kit and exhaust housing an do a second one to sell (or keep as a spare)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
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