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Fitting a Pyro

General Tech Talk

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Fitting a Pyro

Post by frp88 »

How hard is it ? It doesn't sound to hard but I thought I would ask the question.What sort of coin would I we up for?Cos before the pump or the extra boost is coming I getting a Pyro.
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Post by blackmav »

Easy.
I put one of these in http://www.thermoguard.com.au/index.html

Couple of hundred dollars. Neat fit. Responsive.
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Post by Tapage »

HJ-60 2H-T Intercoled [url=http://4x4panama.com/foros/viewtopic.php?t=2770]Tencha[/url]
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Post by me3@neuralfibre.com »

I got an autometer diesel gauge (0-900c) from the US. Nice n cheap. You'll need a drill bit and a tap 1/4" npt. Took 10 mins to drill and tap the manifold gently gently. I couldn't get a 0-15psi boost gauge, but a autometer 0-15psi fuel pressure gauge works fine for boost.

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Post by Guy »

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Post by danaz »

How much was the autometer gauge?
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Post by me3@neuralfibre.com »

danaz wrote:How much was the autometer gauge?
US$147.88 3344-M
US$39.88 fuel (boost) pressure 3311
US$44 Delivery

Atlanticspeed

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Post by Guy »

I looked about for a while and got an autometer "colbolt" series EGT gauge for $126 (aus) delivered.
It had damaged packaging otherwise in perfect order.
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Post by Disco1Modified »

I bought one of these
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=19

and
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=22

Took a week to get here and works brilliantly

looks like this
Image
Toy 100 series now with a few mods

Disco1 with lots of mods - lift, locked and loaded. (sold)
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Post by Guy »

I used Autometer as the probe\thermocouple have a very good reputation of being extremely long lived. Though I do like the realy output idea ...
would be sweet to use something like that to run a water pump on a water to air intercooler.
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Post by rover1 »

VDO are good, around the 300 mark, easy to install. well worth getting a pyro before any engine mods are done imo. saved me.
cheers Pete.

its the skinny pedal
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Post by KiwiBacon »

Hot tip, use steel compression fittings.
Brass soften and continually loosen at the temps a probe will see.

Steel fittings are harder to find, you'll prob have to get a hose and fitting shop to order them in.
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Post by frp88 »

love_mud wrote:I looked about for a while and got an autometer "colbolt" series EGT gauge for $126 (aus) delivered.
It had damaged packaging otherwise in perfect order.
who did you order them though
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Post by Tapage »

I'm not sure with other options .. but in VDO you can buy the pyro and termocouple in a kit ( 6' cable )

Image
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Post by frp88 »

I like that one :D
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Post by KiwiBacon »

Tapage wrote:I'm not sure with other options .. but in VDO you can buy the pyro and termocouple in a kit ( 6' cable )

Image
My VDO gauge doesn't have "BOOST" written across it. I feel like I've missed out now.
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Post by me3@neuralfibre.com »

KiwiBacon wrote:
Tapage wrote:I'm not sure with other options .. but in VDO you can buy the pyro and termocouple in a kit ( 6' cable )

Image
My VDO gauge doesn't have "BOOST" written across it. I feel like I've missed out now.
Mine has "FUEL" "Must be mounted outside of vehicle", but hey, the scale is perfect.

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Post by frp88 »

I was bidding on ebay for 1 but i didn't get it :bad-words:
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Post by Guy »

frp88 wrote:
love_mud wrote:I looked about for a while and got an autometer "colbolt" series EGT gauge for $126 (aus) delivered.
It had damaged packaging otherwise in perfect order.
who did you order them though

Private seller .. was in no hurry as my toibo was stuffed for a while
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Post by shorty_f0rty »

my mechanic put the temp sender for my pyro here.. probably because it was easily accessible?

Image
Image

i mounted the guage under the dash shelf..
Image
Image

from what i have noticed the guage is pretty responsive with the probe where it is..
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Post by rover1 »

thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
cheers Pete.

its the skinny pedal
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Post by shorty_f0rty »

rover1 wrote:thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
*sigh*.. if only i had a turbo.. :(

its just under where the extractors come into 1
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Post by frp88 »

shorty_f0rty wrote:
rover1 wrote:thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
*sigh*.. if only i had a turbo.. :(

its just under where the extractors come into 1
where did you get it from
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Post by shorty_f0rty »

frp88 wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:
rover1 wrote:thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
*sigh*.. if only i had a turbo.. :(

its just under where the extractors come into 1
where did you get it from
i got it off a mate for $100 who got it off ebay (he reckons for the same price)..
its not the best one.. its a pita to wire up (haven't integrated it into the car 12v yet because of this)
its hard to see in the daylight and its really bright at night

but for $100.. i can't really complain too much.
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Post by vanbox »

anyway possible to drill the exhaust manifold without lettin the swarf (spelling???) go through the turbo?

not just a "try this, it might work"

removing turbo is a lot of work considering ill snap most of the bolts/studs

cheers

PAUL
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Post by Guy »

vanbox wrote:anyway possible to drill the exhaust manifold without lettin the swarf (spelling???) go through the turbo?

not just a "try this, it might work"

removing turbo is a lot of work considering ill snap most of the bolts/studs

cheers

PAUL
There is no 100% sure fire way to do what you ask.

If it is that much work why not put it post turbo and add 100C to your measurements ?

If you do take the turbo off, remember to use something like nickel antisieze when putting it back together (makes taking it apart again further down the road so much easier.
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Post by KiwiBacon »

love_mud wrote: If it is that much work why not put it post turbo and add 100C to your measurements ?
The temp drop across your turbo is constantly changing. The 100 deg C is only a fudge factor.
IMO pryo after the turbo is a half-arsed way of doing it which gives poor results.
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Post by vanbox »

its just that its a litle more accurate pre turbo. but i think im going to have to settle for post.

just waiting on a new dump pipe and will tap it into that.

cheers

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Post by Guy »

KiwiBacon wrote:
love_mud wrote: If it is that much work why not put it post turbo and add 100C to your measurements ?
The temp drop across your turbo is constantly changing. The 100 deg C is only a fudge factor.
IMO pryo after the turbo is a half-arsed way of doing it which gives poor results.
I am well aware of that (hence I spent the time pulling my manifold to install the thermocouple ) but if it is going to be a huge issue to remove and the manifold then somtimes unfortunately you just have to live with compromise.
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Post by frp88 »

well I got one of ebay with the 24volt reducer for $270 well now I have to find time to fit it
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