5lt vs 5.7lt vs infinity motor

[matto]

What in your opinion is the best v8 motor for a gu taking price and power into consideration

[GQ Bear]

I'd say supercharge or turbo existing motor. less problems.

[CWBYUP]

I'd say supercharge or turbo existing motor. less problems.

Agreed but if the motor is stuffed I'd say 6.0L over the 5.7 if you can afford it.

Aussie delivered V8's well always be easier for parts and I would GUESS more of them have been done.

Nick

[PGS 4WD]

The 6.0L L76 is quite reasonably priced and Australian delivery but you either have to change the reluctor on the crank to the 24 tooth style of the LS1 or use the E38 engine computer from the current VE which is quite a bit dearer than the LS1 99-01 PCM. Just finished an install on a GU that was a 2.8Td, now its an L76 and 4L80E 4spd auto with E38 ECU and separate Trans TCM as per Holden-GM. I was very impressed with the way it drove and over 200 rwKw, fair bit of work, fly by wire new pedal assembly. A 1/2 cut LS1 would be the cheapest option as you get the accessories but its all used.

Joel

[CWBYUP]

The 6.0L L76 is quite reasonably priced and Australian delivery but you either have to change the reluctor on the crank to the 24 tooth style of the LS1 or use the E38 engine computer from the current VE which is quite a bit dearer than the LS1 99-01 PCM. Just finished an install on a GU that was a 2.8Td, now its an L76 and 4L80E 4spd auto with E38 ECU and separate Trans TCM as per Holden-GM. I was very impressed with the way it drove and over 200 rwKw, fair bit of work, fly by wire new pedal assembly. A 1/2 cut LS1 would be the cheapest option as you get the accessories but its all used.

Joel

Didnt know that. I would go for the 5.7L then and supercharge it it you really had to.

Nick

[cun7s]

The 6.0L L76 is quite reasonably priced and Australian delivery but you either have to change the reluctor on the crank to the 24 tooth style of the LS1 or use the E38 engine computer from the current VE which is quite a bit dearer than the LS1 99-01 PCM. Just finished an install on a GU that was a 2.8Td, now its an L76 and 4L80E 4spd auto with E38 ECU and separate Trans TCM as per Holden-GM. I was very impressed with the way it drove and over 200 rwKw, fair bit of work, fly by wire new pedal assembly. A 1/2 cut LS1 would be the cheapest option as you get the accessories but its all used.
sum pic please of it
Joel

[AFeral]

Been thinking about the same covertion myself.
the LS1 would probally be the easyest as all the part for the covertion are avaliable from Marks. However these engines are really old school in design. Single cam, push rods and two valves per cylinder. Not really cutting edge.
The infinty engine on the other hand from what I have read is a very good motor, six bolt mains, quad cam, four valve per cylinder etc. the auto box can be bolted to a nissan patrol transfer box. A manual gearbox would require a custom bell housing as no one makes one. The power of the infiniti engine is not so good low down but very good mid and up top. I think a super charger could be the go, but again this means more money.
what about TB 48 lots of power and would fit in a lot easyer and require a lot less custom parts.

[nzdarin]

I've just finieshed an Infinity conversion (VH45 + turbo). In principle it is an 'easy' conversion if using Patrol auto as it bolts together, BUT all is not that simple as it won't clear the firewall (in a GQ anywa). I looked at 5and 5.7 (LS1) but wanted a higher reving motor so went with the VH45. THE LS1 is lighter than the VH45 even though the VH is a smaller motor, due to the VH having quad cams etc. The VH is a huge motor so takes a lot of room. It was a struggle to fit it in with turbo, intercooler etc.
Don't be fooled about a TB having more power than a VH. The VH has 80% of it's torque at 2000rpm ie 320nm so don't confuse it with a Lexus.
The VH can handle 600ish hp without any internal mods. Over that all that is needed is to decompress it (for boost) and the bottom end is good for 1000hp. It is argueably the best motor Nissan have even made as far as strength and potential go. 8000 rpm is posible with a vavle spring upgrade!
DD I'd stay with a diesel or go with a Chev.
Competition I'd go with the VH turbo or a TB48 turbo.

[matto]

all i want is a motor that has low down grunt so i can run bigger tyres and that gets to 120kph without to much mucking around

[Rhysta]

Well they all will do that..

The 5.0 would be the easiest to install I would say, loads of people have done it bucket loads of info on stuff that goes wrong / you hit on the way.

5.7 about the same to get fitted up a little bit more with the wiring side of things and more cash.

And im not sure about the infinity, is that a VH45? If so they are a big motor like nzdarin said. Listen to him

[PGS 4WD]

Been thinking about the same covertion myself.
the LS1 would probally be the easyest as all the part for the covertion are avaliable from Marks. However these engines are really old school in design. Single cam, push rods and two valves per cylinder. Not really cutting edge.
The infinty engine on the other hand from what I have read is a very good motor, six bolt mains, quad cam, four valve per cylinder etc. the auto box can be bolted to a nissan patrol transfer box. A manual gearbox would require a custom bell housing as no one makes one. The power of the infiniti engine is not so good low down but very good mid and up top. I think a super charger could be the go, but again this means more money.
what about TB 48 lots of power and would fit in a lot easyer and require a lot less custom parts.

I wouldnt knock the largest production engine in the world that performs better than most multivalve engines of similar size, the GM engineers dumped the multivalve engine as they are cost prohibitive to make and generally make less torque at low rpm, I've tuned VH45's and many Gen3 and Gen4s and for low down grunt go the chev, moreso when one has an issue you can buy parts without finding your nearest Jap importer and buying a whole engine because the variable cam actuator failed.

Joel

[drakan69]

VH45's are a big motor, not just because of the quad cam, also being a 90 degree V doesn't help. however they do sound awesome with the right exhaust (search youtube for a video of a 240sx with a VH45 in it) and there a very strong motor from factory, de-compression isn't needed for most turbo applications. Molybdenum pistons, forged rods and crank + highly balanced motor which will rev to 8,000 rpm. It's a closed deck design, with huge crossribs cast into the top of the block for torsional rigidity and a one piece mains girdle (Nissan calls it a bearing beam), crossbolted, for ridiculous bottom end rigidity.

I know of and have seen VH45de+tt's pushing 550hp@wheels with stock internals and compression

VH45 half cuts can be had from $2k - 2.5K depending on KM and what not.

The infinity auto trannies can be mated up to the patrol transfer box, an extension housing and output shaft from an Patrol auto box need to be swaped into the Infiniti auto box

You will need to buy or make new extractors and gearbox cross member and shorten the front tailshaft / lengthen the rear by 100mm as well.

A problem with VH45s plastic timing chain guides, nissan fixed this problem with the 95 model, and therefore these are the pick of the halfcuts.

The factory ECU can be socketed & tuned nicely, you really won't need an aftermarket... it's a powerful unit. The factory comp has four different fuel maps, one for each gear of the auto, and a second set of these maps for running low octane fuel. I assume there are extensive ignition maps like this too. All fully tuneable & already set up for the engine.

I don't know too much about the 5.7's and the older 5L GM V8's, but the japs really know how to build em.

201kw at 5600rpm for the VH45
395NM @ about 4000rpm

[cloughy]

Well they all will do that..

The 5.0 would be the easiest to install I would say, loads of people have done it bucket loads of info on stuff that goes wrong / you hit on the way.

5.7 about the same to get fitted up a little bit more with the wiring side of things and more cash.

And im not sure about the infinity, is that a VH45? If so they are a big motor like nzdarin said. Listen to him

More wiring my ass, gen 3 is a piece of piss, better to do than a 5l

[offroader-rama]

383 stroker SBC dedicated to LPG with electronic dizzy, just drive all day everday, just check gas mixure when doing oil and plug change
420 hp 450 lbs cost less to run than factory (lpg)

stroker kit $1200 (go 6 inch rods for a few more rpm and 10-1pistons for lpg)
bare 4 bolt block 0 oversize <$500
sump $100
alloy heads (elderbrock proformer) $1800 complete
cam / lifters $300
hi torque starter $250
elec dizzy $200
alloy high rise manifold $300
assembaly depends where of caurse lets say rudely at $1000
exhaust $800
marks adaptors $1500
fitting to car including removing old motor $1000 (be fair)
LPG conversion $2500 (which you'll get $2000 back)
mod plates $250

TOTAL $9,700 ROUND IT UP TO $10,000
COMPARE THOSE DOLLARS TO ABOVE IDEAS AND DONT FORGET LONGIVITY AND RUNNING COSTS IE. SENCERS, INJECTERS, COMPUTER/LOOM SPARKY BLAH BLAH BLAH

INHO thats my plan any way

[Rhysta]

Well they all will do that..

The 5.0 would be the easiest to install I would say, loads of people have done it bucket loads of info on stuff that goes wrong / you hit on the way.

5.7 about the same to get fitted up a little bit more with the wiring side of things and more cash.

And im not sure about the infinity, is that a VH45? If so they are a big motor like nzdarin said. Listen to him

More wiring my ass, gen 3 is a piece of piss, better to do than a 5l

Ok then smart ass, they are both easy.. If you cant wire up a 5ltr or a 5.7 then you shouldnt be doing the swap.

[cloughy]

Well they all will do that..

The 5.0 would be the easiest to install I would say, loads of people have done it bucket loads of info on stuff that goes wrong / you hit on the way.

5.7 about the same to get fitted up a little bit more with the wiring side of things and more cash.

And im not sure about the infinity, is that a VH45? If so they are a big motor like nzdarin said. Listen to him

More wiring my ass, gen 3 is a piece of piss, better to do than a 5l

Ok then smart ass, they are both easy.. If you cant wire up a 5ltr or a 5.7 then you shouldnt be doing the swap.

Why the smart ass? I was just pointing out that it was obvious you hadn't wired both and didn't really know anything about the gen 3 loom

Why shouldn't you be doing the swap if you can't wire it up, i've done looms for blokes who can't wire, but do a better job fitting than I do on my conversions

[nzdarin]

I was waiting for the 'largest production engine in the world' arguement. If that was the case we would all drive either a Corolla, a VW or a F100 as they are the largest production cars in the world. Just because a lot of something has been sold doesn't make it the best. But upon saying that the 350 is a pretty good motor.
For what is wanted the 5L is probably the best option for him due to being cheaper and proably will last longer. The LS1 etc is a disposable motor after all. ie no designed to be rebuilt althugh people do now do it.
I agree with most of what people say about the Jap motor's but the lack of low down torque is not what it is made out to be. The VH45 has over 300nm at 2000rpm! Yes they are complicated and take a lot of wiring and are no where near as easy to do as a Holden motor but does tat mean it is a bad idea? No, it just means less people will do it even though the potenial is better.
It's a case of the right tool for the right job. In this case a high tech, highly efficient motor is needed. What is, is a good strong reliable average old motor that will spin the tyres and sounds good. This counts out all the alloy motors so best choice would be 5L Holden.

[Hoppy11]

I picked up a brand spanking 6lt 2 weeks ago for $4000 +gst, no starter, computer, loom or alt, another couple of grand to have it running, just not sure what to do with it yet.
Hoppy

[grazza]

My 1UZ-FE seems to have less torque than the old straight six. If I had the choice again I would have gone for the cruiser's 4.7L - made for torque.

Infact I would not now have a petrol V8, times have changed in the last 6 years...

I should have spent the money on a well built diesel.

[PGS 4WD]

STD 6.0l L76 in GU with 4l80e auto 205 rwkW at 5800 rpm, Cammed VH45 through Nissan 4spd auto 127 rwkW at 6200 rpm, which has more torque given Power=RPM*Torque? I can tell you from personal experience also the 6.0L shifts a full size GU wagon quicker than a VH45 pushes a GQ shorty and fits in the engine bay with room to spare.
I wouldnt call the LS1 LS2 L76 LS7 LQ9 L98(and whatever I've forgotten) Gen 3 and 4 motor to be disposable when there would be performance and rebuild parts equaling that of the old 350. They can be bored, honed, decked, tunneled, balanced, resleeved and so on and come in modified forms from 5.3 to nearly 8.0L, you can't reuse the con rods as like many manufacturers they are cracked off not machined at the big end joint.
Joel

[Hoppy11]

Just finished an install on a GU that was a 2.8Td, now its an L76 and 4L80E 4spd auto with E38 ECU and separate Trans TCM as per Holden-GM. I was very impressed with the way it drove and over 200 rwKw, fair bit of work, fly by wire new pedal assembly. Joel

What had to be done to the pedal assembly to make it all work and did you use the holden loom and computer??
Cheers
Hoppy

[GQ TROL]

I picked up a brand spanking 6lt 2 weeks ago for $4000 +gst, no starter, computer, loom or alt, another couple of grand to have it running, just not sure what to do with it yet.
Hoppy

Put a supercharger on it!!!

[Hoppy11]

I picked up a brand spanking 6lt 2 weeks ago for $4000 +gst, no starter, computer, loom or alt, another couple of grand to have it running, just not sure what to do with it yet.
Hoppy

Put a supercharger on it!!!

What would a supercharger for it cost?? and where would be the best place to get one, anyone got any links. I'm keen
Hoppy

[PGS 4WD]

Used the Holden fly by wire pedal assy.

You have to use the E38 ECU to suit the 54 tooth crank reluctor or tear the engine down and change the crank and cam reluctors to suit the earlier LS1 style ECU 24 tooth.
Computer, loom and pedal about $2500 or $3300 with auto trans TCM, they now have separate tran computer.

Harrop make a wicked supercharger kit, it is superior, in my humble opinion, to the PWR as the rear belt is easier to adjust and it comes with a large throttle body, I've fitted 3 of 'em to commodores, good for about 300 rwkW on an LS1 with an exhaust.
Joel

[Hoppy11]

Can you change the throttle body to remove the fly by wire?? or will that mess with the computer if so, is there another computer available??
Cheers
Hoppy

[jet-6]

I will be able to get complete LS1's with autos soon, crate motors, all parts except loom and ecu

[GQ TROL]

What would a supercharger for it cost?? and where would be the best place to get one, anyone got any links. I'm keen
Hoppy

http://www.pwr.com.au/scholden_vz6.html

Doesn't give any prices, but its a place to start. Cass Jones has been doing a few supercharged LS2 conversions also.

[PGS 4WD]

You could run an aftermarket ECU, Motec, Autronic or alike, the Holden E38 works out cheaper but the drive by wire in a comp truck would worry me as I have seen hard bumps cause the computer to go into throttle shut down. You can do the other mods I mentioned (crank reluctor ect) and use the LS1 ECU and a LS2 throttle body. The holden computers run fine boosted. The EFI live I use for tuning supports up to 3 Bar in both LS1 and E38 ECU's.

Joel

[Hoppy11]

Used the Holden fly by wire pedal assy.

You have to use the E38 ECU to suit the 54 tooth crank reluctor or tear the engine down and change the crank and cam reluctors to suit the earlier LS1 style ECU 24 tooth.
Computer, loom and pedal about $2500 or $3300 with auto trans TCM, they now have separate tran computer.

I got a price from the local holden dealer:

Engine Computer, Loom and complete fly by wire pedal assembly $1480.00

Plus $490 for the Auto computer if needed

These were VE parts, it was the same price for the VZ 6lt parts

Hoppy

I would then need to get the security wiped from the computer aswell I spose

[cloughy]

I would then need to get the security wiped from the computer aswell I spose

That's simple as, just go into the program and turn the Vats off