im having problems with my cluch on steep hills. its when i have to stop and take off again it slips and thats it i have to revers down the hill. i have a 89nf v6 pajero with 33s enyone els here have this problem??
cluch has been done 10 months ago just a standerd cluch is enyone running somthing better?
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clutch problems
Moderator: -Scott-
clutch problems
you should only be stuck if your on ur roof
eat some concrete and harden the hell up
eat some concrete and harden the hell up
I had that problem too, only a few weeks back, I lost traction up a steep hill, pulled on the hand brake and then tried to drive off, but couldn't grab hold of any of the gears, even though my car was in gear. My clutch started smoking after a few seconds so we called it a day (and we hadn't even began) and a friend (competition 4WDer, Diesel Mechanic) told me that it was definitely the clutch. Since you have mentioned the leaking rear main seal bit, I will check it out as well...
1990 NG Paj TDI: 2.5 exhaust, 146l Longranger tank, snorkel, 2" suspension lift, 31" Bighorns.
1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
1985 Holden Drover: 2" OME suspension & shocks, extractors, 2" exhaust, 235/75 MTR's
Srry I never replied earlier - must ahve missed it. A leaking rear main will show with a bit of an oil leak out the bellhousing between the gearbox and engine. There is a rubber square bung (about 4 inches x 2 inches) covering the hole preventing mud and stuff going in. (well there is on mine). These swell when in contact with oil nad then don't keep mud and stuff out properly.
If you can't see any oil residue there then chances are it won't be a leaking seal.
Does seem odd that it's slipping so quick - you don't drive with your foot resting on it do you...... Do you....
If you can't see any oil residue there then chances are it won't be a leaking seal.
Does seem odd that it's slipping so quick - you don't drive with your foot resting on it do you...... Do you....
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
well i dont have my foot resting on it. its probably because im trying not to stall it and not roll at the same time buts its the stop starting on sevear hills in 4x4 that dose it. dosent slip onroad at all. i will have to probably get a stronger cluch aswell but i will still need gearing so ill get
that 1st then get the cluch looked at.
that 1st then get the cluch looked at.
you should only be stuck if your on ur roof
eat some concrete and harden the hell up
eat some concrete and harden the hell up
Ok heres the issue i had with mine, I bought my vehicle cheap ,on the basis it had a new clutch and master cylinder which had travelled less than 1000klms. On the drive home it began to slip when vehicle had gotten to OT. The master cylinder pushrod had NIL adjustment available, was maxxed out. Scratched my head a bit about it, even examined the hell out of things when i pulled the donk out to freshen it, clutch was brand spankers!.
Then one day had a paj the same model as mine for a clutch change, NJ, it had a similar problem, cept its clutch was shagged. We changed the master cylinder on it too cos it was leaking and i kept the old unit to compare to mine just for curiosity sake. Turns out mine had a LONGER pushrod than this other unit, by about 10-20mm i might add!!! So i swapped the pushrods over to give mine the SHORTER rod length, and voila, no slipping since, plenty of adjustment, all good.
One to look out for, I believe PBR masters have the correct length, mine may have been a brand x (dodgy)
I suggest dabbling with the pushrod adjustment as first attempt before dumping the box on the floor, hope this helps
Then one day had a paj the same model as mine for a clutch change, NJ, it had a similar problem, cept its clutch was shagged. We changed the master cylinder on it too cos it was leaking and i kept the old unit to compare to mine just for curiosity sake. Turns out mine had a LONGER pushrod than this other unit, by about 10-20mm i might add!!! So i swapped the pushrods over to give mine the SHORTER rod length, and voila, no slipping since, plenty of adjustment, all good.
One to look out for, I believe PBR masters have the correct length, mine may have been a brand x (dodgy)
I suggest dabbling with the pushrod adjustment as first attempt before dumping the box on the floor, hope this helps
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