Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
WOuld you be able to email them too me? Need to find a simple solution while i save for one of those kong ones! Not spend the money on that just now ehn the zook needs more then that!
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
I only have 4.16 t/c with 4.8 toys and 33s all I did was weld some flat bar along the 2 sides of the long mount this held for years then the short side bent so I bent some flat to the shape and welded it to the top of the mount then welded flat on its side to the underside of the mount to stop it flexing. I run 5psi in the 33s on rocks with a 1600 now and it seems to have held up although Im getting 6.5s VERY soon so I might brace it to the bolts tha hold the case together to help spread the load.
Nik
NIK wrote:I only have 4.16 t/c with 4.8 toys and 33s all I did was weld some flat bar along the 2 sides of the long mount this held for years then the short side bent so I bent some flat to the shape and welded it to the top of the mount then welded flat on its side to the underside of the mount to stop it flexing. I run 5psi in the 33s on rocks with a 1600 now and it seems to have held up although Im getting 6.5s VERY soon so I might brace it to the bolts tha hold the case together to help spread the load.
Nik
are you going up in tyre size also? won't 4.8 R&P & 6.5 t/case gears be too low for on-road driving?
The answer is yes it will be too low. But the 1600 may make up for it. I have 6.5 T/c and 4.88 in the diffs and with my 35's it is driveable but cant expect much more than 70kms/hr with the carby 1.3.
Yes it will be way to low on road! Atm it does 4000rpm @ 85km/h gps verified. If looked into it and 4.8 is the replacement going from 26" tyres to 33 (32" tall). So Its basically "stock" high range without the t/c gears. Now add 6.5s with 20% high range reduction you would have to change r&p by 20% to get bak to stock. So that brings it back to 3.9 but I think 4.1 might be better as the 33s are heavier with more rolling resistance.
The 1600 with weber does help but it rans out of revs REAL quick. In 60 zones your well into 5th gear so long trips suck atm.
Nik
I've just had a fresh batch of the rings dine, so those who have ordered and paid will have yours in the mail tommorow, those that want them send me a email to roctoy@bigpond.net.au as they tend to go pretty quick.
Cheers Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
Steve do you have any pics of the mounts that also bolt to the bolts that hold the case together? Or anyone else, I had a look at the case on the weekend trying to work out how you guys have done it. Do you go off the front portion of the case or the half way point? Do you do this with both mounts or just one?
Thanks for any input Nik
Ive wailed on the 4.16 t/c for years without using new bearings when I installed it ( I know bad idea but I was young) Im now up to 33s and the only reason Im changing it is because its not low enough for what I want to do. For "normal" people it would be goodwith the 4.8s and 33s but I like to go were the others are scared to go
I have reinforced both mounts and put a bolt through the short side mount with shock rubbers and washers either side and its all held up great.
I know the rock ring would be great but not sure I could design mounts off it that would keep the t/c in the correct position.
Nik
ANDY_M wrote:Roctoy im not sure if u have said it else where but, what thickness steel do u use? and do u have to run longer bolts?
the rings are 6mm thick and some of the holes require a washer as a packer between the case and the ring, yes as a rule all the bolts will need to be 6mm longer however some bolts are longer than others in the case so you may only need a few new ones.
Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
Is it right to say the main reason for Transcase reinforcement is so the Case cant twist,etc with the Torque loads from the shafts. The loads breaks the mounts and can break the gears??
Roctoy
The LWB I have now came with a Ring but separate and not bolted up.
I run Lux 4.8 and Currently S3 but will prob go to S1 as they are a bit too Low. Any thoughts on how too make up a mounts etc? I like the idea of the photos you posted.
OR
I was thinking of making up a flat belly bash plate type set up like Markil.
Mooney Yee Haa
Go Off like a Frog in a SOCK!
I didnt do it! - Bart
Remydog05 wrote:Is it right to say the main reason for Transcase reinforcement is so the Case cant twist,etc with the Torque loads from the shafts. The loads breaks the mounts and can break the gears??
Roctoy
The LWB I have now came with a Ring but separate and not bolted up.
I run Lux 4.8 and Currently S3 but will prob go to S1 as they are a bit too Low. Any thoughts on how too make up a mounts etc? I like the idea of the photos you posted.
OR
I was thinking of making up a flat belly bash plate type set up like Markil.
Yep people to brace it and some said you would not need to but i bent my mount as in twist it becasue of the force on the transfer case! Lucky i didnt break the gears and stuff!
Built swb sierra, building a lwb sierra ute and have a dmax for family camping
it's main purpose is to distribute the load normally placed on the 4 threaded holes into the aluminum case evenly amongst all the other bolts around the case.
did that make any sense?
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
Sorry Roctoy one more question I understand the theory of how and why they work but Ive never seen one in person so if its bolted to the case is it cut out to allow fitment of the standard arms to be bolted back on then welded to to ring? Like I said I have limited fab skills but if it all fit up or just had to be cut to fit around the standard mounts that would be sweet but I dont think I could fab up new mounts to get it in the correct spot so the shafts line up.
How much PM me if you want.
Thanks for your patience Nik
hey guys, not sure if i posting up old info. but i had not seen that skaneracing had a transfer braket out. there site says $410. whats every one think of these? anyone useing them?
[quote="jono_785"]hey guys, not sure if i posting up old info. but i had not seen that skaneracing had a transfer braket out. there site says $410. whats every one think of these? anyone useing them?
Yes
I have a Calmini mount which is the same one (I think the Calmini image is an old one) Its heavy but a nice strong mount, I have been through bending the factory ones, then streghening them, then the long side elongated the 4 holes, then cracked the case....... So when I built the LBW I ordered one of these. Only thing is due to a transfer mounted handbrake I had to modify the mount a little to clear the drum.
mighty kong has worked well. I wanna flat belly though so i hate to cut it up. I have improved with the welder and will probably sell the mighty kong and make a custom one with a roctoy ring