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overheating problems 1hz
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
100 series? 3 core? Alloy with plastic caps? the 2 cores in mine are much thicker than a standard copper core, is this the same with yours?simkell wrote:mate you say your rad is a two core, mine is three core :roll: .
i would say you have to much fuel to start with, then possibly a air flow restriction though the rad, either air can't get in or can't get out.
as sated before the engine is a heat exchange pump, more fuel more heat.
Only restrictions are A/C condensor (factory), large trans cooler (factory), thermofan (factory), bullbar (Toyota Australia Alloy), Pair of Rallye 4000's. All are clean(ish) for airflow.
The only thing there that may block significant air is the spotlights, and I see plenty of cruisers with them.
Is yours TD? Have you tried towing something large with it?
Sorry for all the questions, just after a comparison.
Thanx
Paul
Lexus LX470 - hrrm Winter Tyres
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
Gone - Cruiser HZJ105 Turbo'd Locked & Lifted
Gone - 3L Surf
i thought i had an issue with my 60 series when on the freeway, turned out the factory guage had a mind of its own. so fitted a VDO electric guage as well as factory one.
the hottest it got was 90deg C, this is towing a trailer that weighs around 1000kg, pushing 33x12.5" muddies through the soft sand on fraser island, foot down hard, 11:30am in middle of january, had Light Force XGT's and an insect screen, this was on my 12ht factory turbo 60 series.
will be interesting to see how my 80 series goes in january
If i were you guys ide be trying to return all cooling system components back to stock form, getting injectors and pump checked. if that doesnt solve the problems ide have it on the market, no point having a car you cant trust!
Troy
the hottest it got was 90deg C, this is towing a trailer that weighs around 1000kg, pushing 33x12.5" muddies through the soft sand on fraser island, foot down hard, 11:30am in middle of january, had Light Force XGT's and an insect screen, this was on my 12ht factory turbo 60 series.
will be interesting to see how my 80 series goes in january
If i were you guys ide be trying to return all cooling system components back to stock form, getting injectors and pump checked. if that doesnt solve the problems ide have it on the market, no point having a car you cant trust!
Troy
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
sorry mate mine is a 80 series.
for overheating
1. coolant flow- thermostat, radiator, water pump, collapsed hoses, restriction in block/ head.
2. air flow - blocked cores, damaged fins (including condenser), air gap between radiator and condenser, fan flexing, viscous hub, air can't get out.
3. engine - blocked exhaust, blown head gasket, incorrect timing, overfueling, incorrect oil, cracked block/ head.
4.wiring - faulty sender unit, wiring, gauge.
to confirm it is not your viscous hub, weld an old one solid (i presume you have a few laying around) if stays cool problem found.
if blades are flexing it will not shift air, also if shroud broken or not fitting correctly, fan will not be able to draw air though radiator. to check for water flow or efficiency of pump fit a clear hose of the heater pipe and run vertically, if it fails to travel up tube say 30cm you have a pump problem.
since your EGT's are so high I would reduce the amount of fuel, other wise damage is just around the corner. I would do this on a dyno if possible.
best of luck with it, i know this would be shitting me by now.
for overheating
1. coolant flow- thermostat, radiator, water pump, collapsed hoses, restriction in block/ head.
2. air flow - blocked cores, damaged fins (including condenser), air gap between radiator and condenser, fan flexing, viscous hub, air can't get out.
3. engine - blocked exhaust, blown head gasket, incorrect timing, overfueling, incorrect oil, cracked block/ head.
4.wiring - faulty sender unit, wiring, gauge.
to confirm it is not your viscous hub, weld an old one solid (i presume you have a few laying around) if stays cool problem found.
if blades are flexing it will not shift air, also if shroud broken or not fitting correctly, fan will not be able to draw air though radiator. to check for water flow or efficiency of pump fit a clear hose of the heater pipe and run vertically, if it fails to travel up tube say 30cm you have a pump problem.
since your EGT's are so high I would reduce the amount of fuel, other wise damage is just around the corner. I would do this on a dyno if possible.
best of luck with it, i know this would be shitting me by now.
MUD, MUD, GLORIOUS MUD!
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