worth replacing for $250
or what should i do???
LWB with a G16A in her
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blocked cat
Well you have to have it for emissions, if youre caught youre in the poo, but the car doesnt actually need it to run if you do remove it.
See if you can get one second hand, it wont last as long obviously, but one of equivalent size and surface area should do fine from another vehicle second hand, say if ur mate has a wreck in the front yard.
See if you can get one second hand, it wont last as long obviously, but one of equivalent size and surface area should do fine from another vehicle second hand, say if ur mate has a wreck in the front yard.
God Of Emo
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While over time Cats will block up, they can also block from poor engine tune. If you are running rich, the excess fuel can get down to the hot cat, melting the honeycomb section of the catalyst. Check that your engine hasnt has an issue too, otherwise you might be replacing more than one catalytic converter.
As for replacing or not - VN v6 cat, cheap as chips, and get a decent exhaust fitted at the same time. The fine for having no Cat is huge ($10,000 or somthing like that) as its an environmental violation.
Layto....
As for replacing or not - VN v6 cat, cheap as chips, and get a decent exhaust fitted at the same time. The fine for having no Cat is huge ($10,000 or somthing like that) as its an environmental violation.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
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God Of Emo
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But it will flow much better. Plus i had one lying round when i destroyed my old exhaust. It was about 2 inch diamiter or so, so fitted the exhaust fine (if you have a 2 inch exhaust that is 
)
Layto....
)Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
God Of Emo
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economy of scale... they sell a lot more commodore ones and will likely have it on the shelf....Try_Me wrote:well i would like to hope so have you seen how big a v6 commodore cat is compared to a zooksalien wrote:how much is the VN V6 cat worth compared to a zuk? i would have thought the zuk one, even a vitara one, would be cheaper???
it's whats in mine i must admit... about 100/120 from memory..
Spock
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A) $250 is outrageous. New Cat's aren't that expensive.
B) V6 Commodore cats are a good fit. They are NOT much bigger than a stock sierra one, and the advantage is that they are 2.25" and have two bolt flanges at both ends, making it very easy to pull the exhaust apart later on. They are also very cheap second hand. I have one on my 660 car. That car didn't even have one on it in Japan, and neither did the original 1.0, but the cat makes me feel nice and looks like I am trying if anyone looks under the car. They're also very strong compared to suzuki cats.
C) Ahhh, outers and the dodgy fix. If you have gutted your cat, please don't advise other people to do it on here. Its illegal, unethical, and there is no benefit over a properly working cat. likewise, please don't tell anyone to remove a cat where the engine was required to have one. My car will run without seatbelts too, but that doesn't make it right.
Lil loki, not having a go, but I think you might have been fed a bit of a line here by someone.
A) Can you explain how the carbon deposits got into your cat
B) a 60% blocked cat will still flow better than the 1.5" pipe on each end of it, the CFM ratings of most cat cores are higher than the pipe going into and out of them
C) How did it crack your block?
Steve.
B) V6 Commodore cats are a good fit. They are NOT much bigger than a stock sierra one, and the advantage is that they are 2.25" and have two bolt flanges at both ends, making it very easy to pull the exhaust apart later on. They are also very cheap second hand. I have one on my 660 car. That car didn't even have one on it in Japan, and neither did the original 1.0, but the cat makes me feel nice and looks like I am trying if anyone looks under the car. They're also very strong compared to suzuki cats.
C) Ahhh, outers and the dodgy fix. If you have gutted your cat, please don't advise other people to do it on here. Its illegal, unethical, and there is no benefit over a properly working cat. likewise, please don't tell anyone to remove a cat where the engine was required to have one. My car will run without seatbelts too, but that doesn't make it right.
Lil loki, not having a go, but I think you might have been fed a bit of a line here by someone.
A) Can you explain how the carbon deposits got into your cat
B) a 60% blocked cat will still flow better than the 1.5" pipe on each end of it, the CFM ratings of most cat cores are higher than the pipe going into and out of them
C) How did it crack your block?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
FFS I have had enough of Fwits hollowing out cats. I know people who spends thousands of dollars on making their cars faster and skimp by hollowing out cats. I got a whole 2 inch system with high flow cat and straight through muffler including a new flange for the header to suit the G13B installed for $500. Stop being such a cheap skate.
Oh and by the way, all those people who say you'll be right if the cops pull you over are wrong. A functioning cat is very hot when compared to a straight pipe. Police have carried laser heat guns for years to test if a cat is hollowed out. So If you can afford the massive (read some thousands of dollars) EPA fines then go ahead. idiot.
Oh and by the way, all those people who say you'll be right if the cops pull you over are wrong. A functioning cat is very hot when compared to a straight pipe. Police have carried laser heat guns for years to test if a cat is hollowed out. So If you can afford the massive (read some thousands of dollars) EPA fines then go ahead. idiot.
Those of you fitting commodore cats, and you welding them in yourselves? or specifically asking for a commodore one at the shop? If your welding them yourselves, do you use a MIG at lowish amps? I'm new to welding, just wondering. Fluxcore wire good enough, etc etc... I guess this shoud be relevent to any DIY exhaust fixes.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
Mine was flanged... but any exhaust welding use a mig and it's just thin sheetmetal... same technique, just more annoying angles to work with... if you are doing it this way i'd suggest dropping the exhaust out for better access to ensure a complete weld.Highway-Star wrote:Those of you fitting commodore cats, and you welding them in yourselves? or specifically asking for a commodore one at the shop? If your welding them yourselves, do you use a MIG at lowish amps? I'm new to welding, just wondering. Fluxcore wire good enough, etc etc... I guess this shoud be relevent to any DIY exhaust fixes.
Spock
www.pointnshoot.org
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
A bit off topic... but more modern engines have a pre and post cat sensor.
These systems monitor cat operation so removing or hollowing out will cause engine DTC's to be displayed.
So back on topic - get a Commodore cat, ethical, legal, and not that expensive.
These systems monitor cat operation so removing or hollowing out will cause engine DTC's to be displayed.
So back on topic - get a Commodore cat, ethical, legal, and not that expensive.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Thats what I was wondering about, I know those bloody things are thin metal, had dads old one sitting here for a while untill he went and cashed it in when my exhasut got done. My problem is I've got my new pipe and headers, but the cat is what remains of the original that came with the car.Pinball wrote: Mine was flanged... but any exhaust welding use a mig and it's just thin sheetmetal... same technique, just more annoying angles to work with... if you are doing it this way i'd suggest dropping the exhaust out for better access to ensure a complete weld.
Spock
Yeah dropping the exhaust is the only way, just takes a very long time when its one piece from the headers to the tail
.Thanks
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
Hi Steve,Gwagensteve wrote:A) $250 is outrageous. New Cat's aren't that expensive.
B) V6 Commodore cats are a good fit. They are NOT much bigger than a stock sierra one, and the advantage is that they are 2.25" and have two bolt flanges at both ends, making it very easy to pull the exhaust apart later on. They are also very cheap second hand. I have one on my 660 car. That car didn't even have one on it in Japan, and neither did the original 1.0, but the cat makes me feel nice and looks like I am trying if anyone looks under the car. They're also very strong compared to suzuki cats.
C) Ahhh, outers and the dodgy fix. If you have gutted your cat, please don't advise other people to do it on here. Its illegal, unethical, and there is no benefit over a properly working cat. likewise, please don't tell anyone to remove a cat where the engine was required to have one. My car will run without seatbelts too, but that doesn't make it right.
Lil loki, not having a go, but I think you might have been fed a bit of a line here by someone.
A) Can you explain how the carbon deposits got into your cat
B) a 60% blocked cat will still flow better than the 1.5" pipe on each end of it, the CFM ratings of most cat cores are higher than the pipe going into and out of them
C) How did it crack your block?
Steve.
Carbon Deposits (Most likely mixture too rich/unburnt fuel).
Prior to the cracked block I was getting water in the oil.
Check head gasket, pressure tested the head and reconditioned the head… and after all this I was still getting water in the oil. When I had the head reconditioned, I had a set of extractors and 2" system added as well. At this time the exhaust fitters showed me the cat and it was heavily blocked. A couple of months before this the car was lacking a bit of power because the carby was due for a recon itself. Ended up buying a second hand recently recon'd carby from some dude that had put a Holley 180 on his zook and no longer needed his stock one.
Anyway, the exhaust fitter mentioned that blocked cats can reduce performance as well a f#%k up motors. A couple of other people have also said exhaust gases not escaping properly (because of a blocked cat?) could damage motor by causing it to overheat. The weekend prior to all this the temp gauge did get quite high, not in the red but close!!
At this time the head had been reconditioned, extractors fitted and I thought everything was OK. The following day I check my oil filler cap and it looked like Mocha again… (Still getting water in the head)! But not overheating!
When I spoke to the guy's at Suziwest they said that it was very rare for the 1.3 engine block to crack, they also asked whether my mechanic had 'decked the block' before replacing the recon'd head (which he said didn't need doing because he checked the block and it was fine). They also said overheating could have cracked the block.
I feel that
1) Loss of power prior to all this was because of 2 things…
a) Carb needed kitting
b) Cat was blocked
2) Cracked block… I don't think that I'll be able to pin point the exact cause. I did all my own services every 6 months and took great care.
The only time it ever got close to overheating was the weekend prior to the head work. However so, when I did see the blocked cat it was looking like the lungs of a chain smoker and so I ask myself, 'were they right about the hot exhaust gases not efficiently being expelled'. Was this the reason??
Any thoughts
Darren
www.auszookers.com
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