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Rust advice needed

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

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Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:47 pm
Location: Dubai

Rust advice needed

Post by Shiva »

Could do with some advice folks as i'm a newb to the repair and modifying thingy (had a boringly reliable pajero before...yawn)
I have the usual rusty spots on my 82 MQ, i'm happy enough that i can cut and fill most of em myslef but i have discovered two large holes at the top corners of my windscreen, questions is, will filler be enough or should i weld plate in, (i will be putting in a cage soon so long term structural strength isnt really a worry) the reason i ask is i dont have a welder so will need to pay someone to do that and I hate paying for stuff in general and especially when im broke!!!
any help would be great
thx
chris

having issues getting pics to upload so please see here for pics
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14839
Posts: 138
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2004 6:16 pm
Location: northern rivers nsw

Post by bludnut »

well, by law, and for your own peice of mind you should get it welded.. lots will tell you its the only option. (probably should be) . but cost will be pretty huge, unless you can do a lot of the work yourself. the screen will have to come out and the hood linning too. just between you and me though, i have rust in the gutters and im only going to bog it... its not severe rust, pea sized holes, but im removing as much as i can then converting the rest before painting it with kill rust. not the best thing to do, but i too have no mig, and definitly dont have the funds to pay someone.. if the jobs done well no one will be any the wiser.. (untill a few years down the track)
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:34 pm
Location: Northern Territory

Post by Tommy »

As a panel beater by trade...... i completely agree. You may even find that a majority of your screen frame has the same when you take out the window.

Is your floor a tiny bit wet when it rains ?

2 options.

Sand back the area and sus out how bad it is. From there you either cut and grind out all the corrosion, reinforce or replace the panel steel thats not there any more, bog over the top to create your panel line. Prime/ Paint. Remember to treat the bare steel before and after welding so you dont miss any. You can use a rust converter, which will turn the steel blue.

2nd option, is to simply scratch up the surface around the hole with somethiong coarse like 80 grit. Use a FIBREGLASS BOG first. It will fill holes better and easier then conventional bog. Get your shape with that. Then use your normal bog over the top to get your panel shape and to fill in the pin holes of the fibreglass bog.

If money permits try and use an acid catalysed etch primer before primer filler as they have the best corrosion inhibiting properties.
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:47 pm
Location: Dubai

Post by Shiva »

Thx Tommy, as for wet floor, i dont know it hasnt rained since I bought the car 9 months ago!!! ( I live in Dubai, friggin hot place that it is)
I've gone for option 2 for now as it might rain soon as a temporary measure and will get down to some serious spending in Jan when I have some cash for a more permanent solution.(ie replace all with new steel etc)
Posts: 736
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 2:32 pm
Location: brisbane

Post by gumtree »

i had the exact same prob with my sierra. rust on both sides under the window and too big to bog. paid panel beater to cut it out and weld plates and paint it up. looks fine now and it was $600.
1993 LWB vitara, Front & Rear alloy bars, towbar, spotties, UHF.
Posts: 215
Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2003 4:26 pm
Location: The Alice/Adelaide

Post by Vanne »

mate, get it welded if you can!!!. better all round, just keep in mind though what your Troll is worth. dont go spending 2-3K on rust repairs when the truck is probly worth 3-ish. (unless ofcourse shes gonna be a keeper :)
85 MK lwb 3.3td 2 inch body lift, 32inch simex Ironman 2 inch suspension lift. 4 tonne on the clock, original donk.
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