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5 link and a frames

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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5 link and a frames

Post by outback_pootrol »

after all this season greetings crap is over im looking for 5 link, who does them and how much etc etc, also a-frame aswell,

how much will i be looking at for a bolt on 5 link kit
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Post by SuperiorEngineering »

Why would you want to fit a 5 link and an A-frame on your nissan, their are heaps of better options that wont make your truck drive like shit and be unstable. :?:
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Post by 1MadEngineer »

IMO there is no need at all for an "A" frame. have a look at the superior eng long arm kit, they give huge flex and you just keep the std top arm. it is not the top arms that cause the problem it is the short-ar$se bottom arms that give you the really bad pinion angles and bush bind!!


here are some shots from the "PRO-TRUCK" challenge. This truck it is sooo stable and damn it flexs!! he uses 18" travel SAW rear shocks to get the most out of it!!
Image

from behind
Image

for the front end either a superior Flex arm kit or a dobbin x-link.. all depends on the stuff you like to drive.
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Post by outback_pootrol »

those rear long arms look the goods, and a fair price, i may invest in the near future
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Post by bogged »

1MadEngineer wrote:from behind
Image.
that looks sweet!

is that panhard bent?
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Post by SuperiorEngineering »

Yes that panhard is bent, it got a lot of abuse the 5 rounds prior to this pic. :lol:
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Post by Rogue Patrol »

Geez they're nice pics Greg.... :armsup: :armsup:
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Post by 1MadEngineer »

Rogue Patrol wrote:Geez they're nice pics Greg.... :armsup: :armsup:
yeah this dude turned up and took some sweet pics, i think they might even be in DIRT COMP ;)

yeah bogged, i set one course that you really had to put it on the line to complete, choice of 5ft drop onto a small outcrop or take the cone, Mick took the chance!! :twisted: he was the only rig to complete 6 out of 7 tracks and the bonus.

:twisted: i told them it wasn't going to be an easy weekend!!!! :twisted:
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Post by Mick. »

1MadEngineer wrote:IMO there is no need at all for an "A" frame. have a look at the superior eng long arm kit, they give huge flex and you just keep the std top arm. it is not the top arms that cause the problem it is the short-ar$se bottom arms that give you the really bad pinion angles and bush bind!!


here are some shots from the "PRO-TRUCK" challenge. This truck it is sooo stable and damn it flex's!! he uses 18" travel SAW rear shocks to get the most out of it!!
I want to fit these long arms to the my patrol but I have a set of side steps that are bolted to where the new mounts would have to sit. Now these cant be moved because the exo is welded to them and even if they could be moved there is no where to put them which wouldn't get in the road of the longer arms.

Now I been trying to work out how to fit these for a couple of weeks now and I've come up with an idea but would like to run it past you first. Instead of fitting the long arm kit like you normally would, could I fit it on the inside of my chassis rails and still have the same flex and would it still be as stable as fitting it the conventional way?

My idea was to use the left front control arm bracket on the right and the right one on the left only they would be on the inside. This would also stop the tyres rubbing on the control arms at full flex as well without requiring spacers. :lol:

I'm running 18 inch air shox also and want to get the most out of them.

Any advise would be appreciated

Cheers Mick.
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Post by KIWI »

What mods are needed to fit the longer arms?
Are there any handling changes for a daily driver?
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Post by AFeral »

Correct me if i'm wrong but by fitting longer bottom arms and keeping the top arms the same length fuck up the Squat and anti squat ratios of the suspension ?
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Post by vanbox »

KIWI wrote:What mods are needed to fit the longer arms?
Are there any handling changes for a daily driver?
are they adaptable to a SWB?

would fitting them on a turbo diesel (torque) help reduce "rolling" (correct term???) of the rear diff under large loads (like a ladder bar for leaf sprung trucks).

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Post by simcoz »

Try calling superior engineering and have a chat with mick ,that way you get your answer strait away. :D
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Post by outback_pootrol »

who has one and whos got some pics of the bolt in ones???
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Post by bogged »

1MadEngineer wrote:yeah bogged, i set one course that you really had to put it on the line to complete, choice of 5ft drop onto a small outcrop or take the cone, Mick took the chance!! :twisted: he was the only rig to complete 6 out of 7 tracks and the bonus.

:twisted: i told them it wasn't going to be an easy weekend!!!! :twisted:
well done, that setup is gold... would love it on the GU... but alas, would be poo for touring. :)
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Post by Rogue Patrol »

bogged wrote:
1MadEngineer wrote:yeah bogged, i set one course that you really had to put it on the line to complete, choice of 5ft drop onto a small outcrop or take the cone, Mick took the chance!! :twisted: he was the only rig to complete 6 out of 7 tracks and the bonus.

:twisted: i told them it wasn't going to be an easy weekend!!!! :twisted:
well done, that setup is gold... would love it on the GU... but alas, would be poo for touring. :)
Why would it?
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Post by bogged »

Rogue Patrol wrote:Why would it?
IMWO, you wouldnt want a setup so soft for loaded cars which 99% of 4b's touring round the country are way over their GVM to start with.. All cars on my Murray sunset trip were 200+kgs over with one at 700kgs over.

While that setup is awesome for a comp truck, or weekend warrior, it would be wasted on a touring truck. That sort of travel would never be used to its potential, although if I had that setup, Im sure the odd trip round Toolangi, Mt Dissa could do it.

Suppose it comes down to 2 things, intention of use of the rig is the main thing, and also depends on your interpretation of TOURING.
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Post by Rogue Patrol »

bogged wrote:
Rogue Patrol wrote:Why would it?
IMWO, you wouldnt want a setup so soft for loaded cars which 99% of 4b's touring round the country are way over their GVM to start with.. All cars on my Murray sunset trip were 200+kgs over with one at 700kgs over.

While that setup is awesome for a comp truck, or weekend warrior, it would be wasted on a touring truck. That sort of travel would never be used to its potential, although if I had that setup, Im sure the odd trip round Toolangi, Mt Dissa could do it.

Suppose it comes down to 2 things, intention of use of the rig is the main thing, and also depends on your interpretation of TOURING.
There's no reason you couldn't do both with a little bit of work.
If you had an X-link, u cld lock it in place. If your springs are soft maybe swap the rears before touring or Maybe use something like th Polyair system. The longer rear arms won't MAKE it softer, they will just allow more movement. If all you do is tour then ur right, this wouldn't be the best option. But if you want to do both (some do) then it could be set up to suit I'm sure.
I reckon if you have more flex you can get away with less height which is better for on road.
6" GQ, 37" Treps, that is all.....



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Post by bogged »

Rogue Patrol wrote:I reckon if you have more flex you can get away with less height which is better for on road.
agree totally. I also thing its better for offroad. My GQ was so much better at 4inch than 6+.

I realise the longer arms wont make it softer, but the whole setup I was talkin bout, with the springs/shocks etc that are runnign on that ute would be pretty soft..

With some work, you could get a good compramise setup, but that is costly, testing shock/spring combos etc.
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Post by simcoz »

I htink you'll find mick uses heavy duty coils front and rear so there not that soft.His truck is also setup for some winch challenge events next year
so it also handles high speed stuff very well.
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