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BBM Rick's Rover thing. NOW FOR SALE OR SWAP!
Moderator: Micka
Nice what are the rim worth Rick Im in a world of hurt ATM springs are to stiff need new links need Radius arms shocks may need revalving its all over the place but I like those rims can you get them in powder coat black
Last edited by ROVERNIT on Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Trust me colour them mate get the colour the same,and keep some for touch ups,on the body and flares.BBM Rick wrote:We were discussing it, do you have any pics or examples to show?TRobbo wrote:Rick, colour code those flares - they will look HEAPS better
Doing the front and rear bars will make it look even better
Thanks for the kind words!blackrangie wrote:That looks awesum mate!
I cant wait to see what you come up with next
Imagine what it would look like with the lra 2.5' body lift kit !
tyres will prob still rub wont they without it?
Anyway whats next?
The only place it touches is the very rear, of the rear wheel well, which I think I can live with. It also just nips the radius arm on full lock, but I can play with the lockstops to sort that.
Next up will be getting the lockers hooked up, sorting out some on board air, rear lower control arms to be made bullet proof and getting a tie rod made up to match the drag link. I want to have this as strong and reliable as possible. Lucky for me that Fernando from 3rd's Productions has lower rear arms on the shelf, and will make my tie rod for me.
Oh, I will also be trialing some drop radius arms early in the new year, so stay tuned for that.
Maybe a swap to HID's all round in the future, but it's not high on the priority list atm. Still got plenty of work to do to make it drive right first!
I also have asecond set of trim rings for the wheels that I was thinking of having painted in the body colour. Can anyone with photochop skills give me an idea what it may look like?
rick@offroadmediagroup.com.au
umm..i think he's trying to say that he wants it to drive as close to stock as he can get it,something i am currently working on toouninformed wrote:it willnever drive like stock.....
but im sure you can make it better than it is
Just got the maxidrive sterring rods and 4way stabilizer and castor bushes and it helped out heeps,but still need to slot the swivels as its the most cost effective solution avail at the moment i think.
BBM Rick wrote:Thanks for the kind words!blackrangie wrote:That looks awesum mate!
I cant wait to see what you come up with next
Imagine what it would look like with the lra 2.5' body lift kit !
tyres will prob still rub wont they without it?
Anyway whats next?
The only place it touches is the very rear, of the rear wheel well, which I think I can live with. It also just nips the radius arm on full lock, but I can play with the lockstops to sort that.
Next up will be getting the lockers hooked up, sorting out some on board air, rear lower control arms to be made bullet proof and getting a tie rod made up to match the drag link. I want to have this as strong and reliable as possible. Lucky for me that Fernando from 3rd's Productions has lower rear arms on the shelf, and will make my tie rod for me.
Oh, I will also be trialing some drop radius arms early in the new year, so stay tuned for that.
Maybe a swap to HID's all round in the future, but it's not high on the priority list atm. Still got plenty of work to do to make it drive right first!
I also have asecond set of trim rings for the wheels that I was thinking of having painted in the body colour. Can anyone with photochop skills give me an idea what it may look like?
Are you addicted to rangies yet? or havent you been offroad much yet,haha
Nah just kidn,are those springs softish or hard,cause there is nothing worse that tall hard springs on a rangie,
I agree, lots of suspension mods on Rangies go tits up because most times they've selected a too stiffer spring rate for the vehicle. Obviously (common sense) that the more gear you have hanging off your Rangies, the harder the spring has to be to cope with the extra weight.blackrangie wrote: Nah just kidn,are those springs softish or hard,cause there is nothing worse that tall hard springs on a rangie,
I run 180lb front (tube bar with a M8000 lb Warn wich and dual battery set-up) and 220 lb on the rear (rear bar, not too heavy and std fuel tank). Works fine allround, plus articulates well off-road without too many comprimises.
Works on my rig but not to everyone's liking.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
I have 220ibs on the front of my Disco and 280ibs on the rear now a rangie and a Disco are totally different but I find 220 on the front with ARB bar to be OK its the rear and 280 that Im not to sure off spoke to English Auto over at tuggerah he advised that it sounds way to stiffAquarangie wrote:I agree, lots of suspension mods on Rangies go tits up because most times they've selected a too stiffer spring rate for the vehicle. Obviously (common sense) that the more gear you have hanging off your Rangies, the harder the spring has to be to cope with the extra weight.blackrangie wrote: Nah just kidn,are those springs softish or hard,cause there is nothing worse that tall hard springs on a rangie,
I run 180lb front (tube bar with a M8000 lb Warn wich and dual battery set-up) and 220 lb on the rear (rear bar, not too heavy and std fuel tank). Works fine allround, plus articulates well off-road without too many comprimises.
Works on my rig but not to everyone's liking.
Trav
rims
hey rovernit,
procomp make steelies with the wholes in them, and black. rather then the conventional sunraysia patterns. they're pretty thick too and have continous weld on the band (not stitch welded like some), mine version are called 'rock crawlers' from memory. at the time i got mine then had 2 versions, one with more wholes and smaller and one with less wholes and larger ones. i got mine shipped up from melbourne.
procomp make steelies with the wholes in them, and black. rather then the conventional sunraysia patterns. they're pretty thick too and have continous weld on the band (not stitch welded like some), mine version are called 'rock crawlers' from memory. at the time i got mine then had 2 versions, one with more wholes and smaller and one with less wholes and larger ones. i got mine shipped up from melbourne.
Re: rims
what did they set you backdef90 wrote:hey rovernit,
procomp make steelies with the wholes in them, and black. rather then the conventional sunraysia patterns. they're pretty thick too and have continous weld on the band (not stitch welded like some), mine version are called 'rock crawlers' from memory. at the time i got mine then had 2 versions, one with more wholes and smaller and one with less wholes and larger ones. i got mine shipped up from melbourne.
What dose it RTI at now with the bigger wheels ?????
If the front tyres arnt rubbing in the inner guards then the front coils must be to hard or you have lengthened the front bump stops either way your loosing up travel which will also effect the down travel on the oppisit side ...
Would look much beta with a 3in body lift and will flex beta with softer rate coils
But that is just my opinion and there the same as clits
If the front tyres arnt rubbing in the inner guards then the front coils must be to hard or you have lengthened the front bump stops either way your loosing up travel which will also effect the down travel on the oppisit side ...
Would look much beta with a 3in body lift and will flex beta with softer rate coils
But that is just my opinion and there the same as clits
Cheers
Chris
Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
Chris
Questions $20ea Answers for said Questions $100ea
I can fix your F'ups for a fee .......
Havent worked out an RTI yet, and your right, I probably have lost a bit due to the coils. Im in a fortunate position to have Simon, Tough Dog's own guru to give me a hand to get the best possible coil in the Rangie. What we have isnt right yet, but he assures me we will get there. Once we do, we will have them available to sell.lokka wrote:What dose it RTI at now with the bigger wheels ?????
If the front tyres arnt rubbing in the inner guards then the front coils must be to hard or you have lengthened the front bump stops either way your loosing up travel which will also effect the down travel on the oppisit side ...
Would look much beta with a 3in body lift and will flex beta with softer rate coils
But that is just my opinion and there the same as clits
Looking forward to getting it right! I have the drop arms going in today, as well as the rear lower arms, and I have had double cardin shafts made up for the front and rear.
SLowly but surely, Im getting it to where I want it.
Oh, and Mark, no dents yet
rick@offroadmediagroup.com.au
Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?
So whats left to do?
Hook up the lockers.
Make up a HD Tie Rod
Fab up some sliders
Keep playing with coil rates.
Make up some rear dislocation cones
That should just about get her done I reckon.
Rick.
rick@offroadmediagroup.com.au
I was really surprised also when fitting LC60 diffs to my series Landy. Where they seem to make all of the gains in width is in the wheel offset rather than the axle length.BBM Rick wrote:Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
EVERYONE should follow this link to vote for our mate Rick
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=135094
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=135094
HoldFast RocKrawlin
that cant be good for wheel bearingsSlunnie wrote:I was really surprised also when fitting LC60 diffs to my series Landy. Where they seem to make all of the gains in width is in the wheel offset rather than the axle length.BBM Rick wrote:Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?
Why?, same as offset rimsuninformed wrote:that cant be good for wheel bearingsSlunnie wrote:I was really surprised also when fitting LC60 diffs to my series Landy. Where they seem to make all of the gains in width is in the wheel offset rather than the axle length.BBM Rick wrote:Sorry for the delay guys! The LC diffs are in fact NARROWER than the LR ones! That shocked me a bit! I am running 1.5in wheel spacers to make up for it and am now a bit wider than std. I do not have any exact measurements handy to post up though.Loanrangie wrote:What is the width of the 60 lc diffs compared to rangie diffs ?
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Payback is a B I A T C H Mark!UZJ40 wrote:EVERYONE should follow this link to vote for our mate Rick
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=135094
rick@offroadmediagroup.com.au
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