Was going to bleed my clutch and brake lines in the Cruiser as the fluid looks real black.. I had a quick read through the Gregory Manual and it it states to use DOT 3. I have 3 bottles of DOT 4 and want to know if I can use these?
Whats the difference between them?
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DOT 3 or DOT 4 ?
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DOT 4 is fine.
Should say on the bottle suitable for dot 3, 4, 5 applications etc.
The difference between them mainly is the temperature they can withstand, among the chemistry jargon.
Should say on the bottle suitable for dot 3, 4, 5 applications etc.
The difference between them mainly is the temperature they can withstand, among the chemistry jargon.
Last edited by rezpkt on Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I dont think DOT 3 is available any more, and has been replaced by DOT 4.
I had the same issue when i blew off the clutch line from the master cyl to the slave cyl and needed to replace the fluid. DOT4 has been fine for me.
I had the same issue when i blew off the clutch line from the master cyl to the slave cyl and needed to replace the fluid. DOT4 has been fine for me.
92 LWB Ford Maverick 4.2, Dual Fuel.
99 GU ST 4.2 Turbo Diesel, Non Intercooled, Tigerz11 w/synthetic, 35"' Bighorns, ARB Compressor, Snorkel.
99 GU ST 4.2 Turbo Diesel, Non Intercooled, Tigerz11 w/synthetic, 35"' Bighorns, ARB Compressor, Snorkel.
You can not mix DOT5 woth other DOT fluids as its not hydroscopic like others .DOT5 is silica based.rezpkt wrote:DOT 4 is fine.
Should say on the bottle suitable for dot 3, 4, 5 applications etc.
The difference between them mainly is the temperature they can withstand, among the chemistry jargon.
I`ll try to find what I found out about fluids etc it`s on another forum.Is really indepth artical etc.Stay tuned
2001 100 series stock as a rock
I found it pretty long read but well worth it Mods feel free to copy the info into the bibles if its of any help
The discussion of whether to use DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, or the new DOT5.1 brake fluids in Triumphs is a common topic. The information provided herein should help you to decide which of these brake fluids are best for you and your car. I would point out that I am not an "expert" on the topic, but have collected the experiences of many other Triumph enthusiasts, as well as opinions of professional auto restorers. I have tempered my findings with my own experiences and opinions.
I would also take this opportunity to point out that the type of brake fluid used in your car is far less important, from a safety standpoint, than a properly functioning braking system. If you are working on your own brakes, be extremely careful, don't skimp on poor components, and bleed the brake system very carefully and thoroughly.
DOT3
DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles. One of the most familiar brands is "Prestone."
Advantages:
DOT3 fluid is inexpensive, and available at most gas stations, department stores, and any auto parts store.
Disadvantages:
DOT3 will damage natural rubber brake seals and should not be used in any car suspected of having natural rubber seals (most Triumphs prior to 1968).
DOT3 fluid eats paint!
DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use.
Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.
DOT4
DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in late model Triumphs. The most familiar brand is "Castrol GT-LMA"
Advantages:
DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores.
DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot.
Disadvantages:
DOT4 fluid eats paint! Small leaks around the master cylinder will eventually dissolve away the paint on your bodywork in the general vicinity of the leak, and then give rust a chance to attack the body of your car!
DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.
Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.
DOT5
DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.
Advantages:
DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)
Disadvantages:
DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3 or DOT4. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system.
Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations.
Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.
DOT5.1
DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid. (In fact, Spectro is marketing a similar new fluid which they are calling Supreme DOT 4, which seems less confusing.)
As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional DOT5 brake fluids.
Advantages:
DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C).
DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.
Disadvantages:
DOT5.1 fluids (and Spectro's Supreme DOT4) are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water.
DOT5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint.
DOT 5.1 fluids are difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores, mostly limited to "speed shops."
DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find.
General Recommendations:
If you have a brake system that doesn't leak or show any other signs of failure, but has old seals in it, don't change fluid types as a result of reading this article. If it isn't broken, don't "fix" it -- you may simply break it instead!
Flushing of the brake system every couple years to remove any absorbed or collected water is probably a good idea to prevent corrosion, regardless of the type of brake fluid used.
DOT3 is dangerous to use in Triumphs with natural rubber seals, and thus should not be used in such cars, except as a temporary "quick fix to get me home" solution. (If this is used as a "get-me-home" solution, bleed the system as soon as possible, and be prepared to replace all your seals.)
DOT3 is an adequate brake fluid for use in later Triumphs, although it is rarely preferred. My recommendation would be to simply not use it.
DOT4 fluid, for a slight increase in cost, will give significantly increased resistance to moisture absorption, thus decreasing the likelihood of corrosion compared to DOT3.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making it preferable for high performance uses such as racing, autocross, or excessive use of the brakes in mountainous areas. For even greater braking performance, consider going to DOT5.1 or a high-performance version of DOT4 fluid.
DOT5 is a good choice for the weekend driver/show car. It doesn't absorb water and it doesn't eat paint. One caveat is that because it doesn't absorb water, water that gets in the system will tend to collect at low points. In this scenario, it would actually be promoting corrosion!
DOT5 is probably not the thing to use in your race car although it is rated to stand up to the heat generated during racing conditions. The reason for this recommendation is the difficult bleeding mentioned above.
When changing from one fluid type to another, as a minimum, bleed all of the old fluid out of the system completely. For best results, all the seals in the system should be replaced.
As always, your experiences may vary.
found on this site www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-fluids
hopefully this will help others as well with the diffrent types of brake fluids around
cheers
Michael
The discussion of whether to use DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, or the new DOT5.1 brake fluids in Triumphs is a common topic. The information provided herein should help you to decide which of these brake fluids are best for you and your car. I would point out that I am not an "expert" on the topic, but have collected the experiences of many other Triumph enthusiasts, as well as opinions of professional auto restorers. I have tempered my findings with my own experiences and opinions.
I would also take this opportunity to point out that the type of brake fluid used in your car is far less important, from a safety standpoint, than a properly functioning braking system. If you are working on your own brakes, be extremely careful, don't skimp on poor components, and bleed the brake system very carefully and thoroughly.
DOT3
DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles. One of the most familiar brands is "Prestone."
Advantages:
DOT3 fluid is inexpensive, and available at most gas stations, department stores, and any auto parts store.
Disadvantages:
DOT3 will damage natural rubber brake seals and should not be used in any car suspected of having natural rubber seals (most Triumphs prior to 1968).
DOT3 fluid eats paint!
DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use.
Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.
DOT4
DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in late model Triumphs. The most familiar brand is "Castrol GT-LMA"
Advantages:
DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores.
DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot.
Disadvantages:
DOT4 fluid eats paint! Small leaks around the master cylinder will eventually dissolve away the paint on your bodywork in the general vicinity of the leak, and then give rust a chance to attack the body of your car!
DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.
Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.
DOT5
DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.
Advantages:
DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)
Disadvantages:
DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3 or DOT4. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system.
Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations.
Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.
DOT5.1
DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid. (In fact, Spectro is marketing a similar new fluid which they are calling Supreme DOT 4, which seems less confusing.)
As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional DOT5 brake fluids.
Advantages:
DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C).
DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.
Disadvantages:
DOT5.1 fluids (and Spectro's Supreme DOT4) are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water.
DOT5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint.
DOT 5.1 fluids are difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores, mostly limited to "speed shops."
DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find.
General Recommendations:
If you have a brake system that doesn't leak or show any other signs of failure, but has old seals in it, don't change fluid types as a result of reading this article. If it isn't broken, don't "fix" it -- you may simply break it instead!
Flushing of the brake system every couple years to remove any absorbed or collected water is probably a good idea to prevent corrosion, regardless of the type of brake fluid used.
DOT3 is dangerous to use in Triumphs with natural rubber seals, and thus should not be used in such cars, except as a temporary "quick fix to get me home" solution. (If this is used as a "get-me-home" solution, bleed the system as soon as possible, and be prepared to replace all your seals.)
DOT3 is an adequate brake fluid for use in later Triumphs, although it is rarely preferred. My recommendation would be to simply not use it.
DOT4 fluid, for a slight increase in cost, will give significantly increased resistance to moisture absorption, thus decreasing the likelihood of corrosion compared to DOT3.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making it preferable for high performance uses such as racing, autocross, or excessive use of the brakes in mountainous areas. For even greater braking performance, consider going to DOT5.1 or a high-performance version of DOT4 fluid.
DOT5 is a good choice for the weekend driver/show car. It doesn't absorb water and it doesn't eat paint. One caveat is that because it doesn't absorb water, water that gets in the system will tend to collect at low points. In this scenario, it would actually be promoting corrosion!
DOT5 is probably not the thing to use in your race car although it is rated to stand up to the heat generated during racing conditions. The reason for this recommendation is the difficult bleeding mentioned above.
When changing from one fluid type to another, as a minimum, bleed all of the old fluid out of the system completely. For best results, all the seals in the system should be replaced.
As always, your experiences may vary.
found on this site www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-fluids
hopefully this will help others as well with the diffrent types of brake fluids around
cheers
Michael
2001 100 series stock as a rock
actully guys in most cases you can upgrade to dot 4 however those in with toyotas should use dot 3 as this whats recommended.
I work for a oil company that does brake fuild and we have been told only to use dot 3 in toyotas as dot 4 there has been cases of dot 4 drying out seals and not covered by toyota warrently .. just a heads up
I work for a oil company that does brake fuild and we have been told only to use dot 3 in toyotas as dot 4 there has been cases of dot 4 drying out seals and not covered by toyota warrently .. just a heads up
Its pretty simple, just use the fluid specified on the lid of the brake fluid reservoir, this will be whats required for the clutch circuit also, most tojos clutch reservoir lids have the same advisory on them too.
DOT 3 fluid IS available, you should stick to that to avoid possible failure of components, especially front caliper seals, when you mix 2 different grades of fluid. DO NOT MIX GRADES!
DOT 3 fluid IS available, you should stick to that to avoid possible failure of components, especially front caliper seals, when you mix 2 different grades of fluid. DO NOT MIX GRADES!
Most vehicle manufacturers specify brake fluids that comply with a certain DOT (Department of Transportation) standard. This is a US standard that is recognised more or less throughout the world. Most manufacturers specify a DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid, however some manufacturers may have other specific requirements.
When buying brake fluid it’s a good idea to check the vehicle’s handbook so you know what fluid is specified for the vehicle, as a DOT 4 fluid is not necessarily better than a DOT 3 fluid.
In theory a DOT 4 fluid can be used in place of a DOT 3 fluid, however in practice this isn’t always the case, as some vehicle manufacturers have unique material specifications for brake components which makes them incompatible with fluids other than those specified.
A DOT 3 fluid should not be used where a DOT 4 fluid is specified, as the boiling points are quite different. If a vehicle manufacturer has specified a DOT 4 fluid, it’s probably because the vehicle is capable of generating high heat loads in the fluid and the higher boiling point is needed.
The supercheap fluid (own brand, black bottle, yellow lid) is a nice green colour.bigcam wrote:burson's sell it too black bottle yellow label.. fluid is blue. oooh pretty!
Many older vehicles may only list DOT3 because that is all that was available back then. If DOT4 and DOT5.1 didn't exist then they couldn't recommend them.
My bike brakes list DOT3, I use DOT4 and DOT5.1 without any issues. They run up to 300 deg C at the rotors and have boiled out lower boiling point fluids before.
even a 2003 toyota 100series still recomend dot3 as the fluid to use. Dad asked one of the toyota spare partsguys about this, and he said the only real reason is because dot4 hadnt been certified for use in them by toyota. He will be doing a comoplete flush and using castrol dot4 in the next month or so.,KiwiBacon wrote:The supercheap fluid (own brand, black bottle, yellow lid) is a nice green colour.bigcam wrote:burson's sell it too black bottle yellow label.. fluid is blue. oooh pretty!
Many older vehicles may only list DOT3 because that is all that was available back then. If DOT4 and DOT5.1 didn't exist then they couldn't recommend them.
My bike brakes list DOT3, I use DOT4 and DOT5.1 without any issues. They run up to 300 deg C at the rotors and have boiled out lower boiling point fluids before.
Why? He just was told that it was not recomended by TOYOTA, and most on here have just described that it is not wise to do so, why would he do that? I'd advise a spare master cylinder ($$$$$$$$$$$$ for 100 series)be on hand and some caliper kits for when the leaks begin! Also flushing the brake fluid on a 100series is an undertaking that requires a scantool or toyota diagnostic device to do so, big problems are said to develop if it is undertaken in a traditional manner.even a 2003 toyota 100series still recomend dot3 as the fluid to use. Dad asked one of the toyota spare partsguys about this, and he said the only real reason is because dot4 hadnt been certified for use in them by toyota. He will be doing a comoplete flush and using castrol dot4 in the next month or so
FGS why dont people take any notice of the warnings under the bonnet?
We have physically watched a toyota mechanic do a flush on one. And i can tell you 100% he never plugged anything into the computer. The most complicated part of the procedure was turning the key to on, pumping the brakes 30 times, and then proceeding with the flush. This is for something to do with the electronic part of the master.sparky! wrote:Why? He just was told that it was not recomended by TOYOTA, and most on here have just described that it is not wise to do so, why would he do that? I'd advise a spare master cylinder ($$$$$$$$$$$$ for 100 series)be on hand and some caliper kits for when the leaks begin! Also flushing the brake fluid on a 100series is an undertaking that requires a scantool or toyota diagnostic device to do so, big problems are said to develop if it is undertaken in a traditional manner.even a 2003 toyota 100series still recomend dot3 as the fluid to use. Dad asked one of the toyota spare partsguys about this, and he said the only real reason is because dot4 hadnt been certified for use in them by toyota. He will be doing a comoplete flush and using castrol dot4 in the next month or so
FGS why dont people take any notice of the warnings under the bonnet?
Why use dot 4? Because the electronic ABS master on a 100series is about $1000. And the thing that kills it is water in the fluid. Dot3 is shithouse for water in the fluid, dot4 is much better, so why wouldn't we use dot4. No-one at hinterland toyota or grand toyota or oldmac toyota could tell us of any case where using dot4 caused any problems in any toyota, not just the 100series.
Its not like we just popped the bonnet, read dot3, and just decided to ignore it. We put a great deal of research into the decision and are very confident its the right one.
early dot4 formulations werent as interchangeable as the modern dot4 formulations. Most dot4 fluids go as far as to say they are 100% interchangeable.Vineboy wrote:I think the dot 3 is vegie based not mineral based. My tractor says use only dot 3 NOT dot 4.
As said above, use what it says on the cap.
Neither are mineral based or veggie based.Vineboy wrote:I think the dot 3 is vegie based not mineral based. My tractor says use only dot 3 NOT dot 4.
As said above, use what it says on the cap.
Read this if you really want to know.
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/staticfiles/DO ... 116-04.pdf
Until then rumours will persist.
According to Toyota and also a local brake specialist there is a certain additive in Dot 4 that reacted with the seals causing them to fail. One 05 Prado we service started heavily leaking out the master cylinder after we used Dot4 fluid in it. It was replaced by Toyota under warranty and we were advised to use only Dot3 fluid, this was the first time we had been alerted to this issue. The funny thing is our brake fluid supplier swears that his Dot4 is fine for Toyota's, but i prefer to be safe and just use Dot3 in them.KiwiBacon wrote:What happens to them?chunks wrote:Toyota recommend Dot3, i've seen a few Prado master cylinders shit themselves on Dot4. As said, use what it says on the reservoir cap.
Do the seals disintegrate?
Was that an isolated incident or did it happen to other vehicles?chunks wrote: According to Toyota and also a local brake specialist there is a certain additive in Dot 4 that reacted with the seals causing them to fail. One 05 Prado we service started heavily leaking out the master cylinder after we used Dot4 fluid in it. It was replaced by Toyota under warranty and we were advised to use only Dot3 fluid, this was the first time we had been alerted to this issue. The funny thing is our brake fluid supplier swears that his Dot4 is fine for Toyota's, but i prefer to be safe and just use Dot3 in them.
I'd hope it was mere co-incidence, because if toyota spec a seal which can't handle the most common brakefluid in the world, then they have a serious problem.
Do toyota make their own brake components or do a company like Aisin or Denso make them?
denso made all the brake components on my hj60, no idea who makes em for the 100series, but it sure isnt toyota.KiwiBacon wrote:Was that an isolated incident or did it happen to other vehicles?chunks wrote: According to Toyota and also a local brake specialist there is a certain additive in Dot 4 that reacted with the seals causing them to fail. One 05 Prado we service started heavily leaking out the master cylinder after we used Dot4 fluid in it. It was replaced by Toyota under warranty and we were advised to use only Dot3 fluid, this was the first time we had been alerted to this issue. The funny thing is our brake fluid supplier swears that his Dot4 is fine for Toyota's, but i prefer to be safe and just use Dot3 in them.
I'd hope it was mere co-incidence, because if toyota spec a seal which can't handle the most common brakefluid in the world, then they have a serious problem.
Do toyota make their own brake components or do a company like Aisin or Denso make them?
No i was told there was quite a few failures.KiwiBacon wrote:Was that an isolated incident or did it happen to other vehicles?chunks wrote: According to Toyota and also a local brake specialist there is a certain additive in Dot 4 that reacted with the seals causing them to fail. One 05 Prado we service started heavily leaking out the master cylinder after we used Dot4 fluid in it. It was replaced by Toyota under warranty and we were advised to use only Dot3 fluid, this was the first time we had been alerted to this issue. The funny thing is our brake fluid supplier swears that his Dot4 is fine for Toyota's, but i prefer to be safe and just use Dot3 in them.
I'd hope it was mere co-incidence, because if toyota spec a seal which can't handle the most common brakefluid in the world, then they have a serious problem.
Do toyota make their own brake components or do a company like Aisin or Denso make them?
If you look at a vast majority of Japanese cars, they say Dot3 on the reservoir cap, whereas European cars say Dot4.
I had dot3 put in my landcruiser when i upgraded the brakes - boiled it the first time i drove it (probably wasn't being too kind on the brand new pads either 
) I've run dot4 previously and run it now and never had performance problems - but now that i read this maybe i have an explination for why my old brakes were leaky (...or because they were 20 years old?)
) I've run dot4 previously and run it now and never had performance problems - but now that i read this maybe i have an explination for why my old brakes were leaky (...or because they were 20 years old?)humm.
I've abeen under the impression that you can use any brake fluid but you can't mix Dot 3/4 with Dot 5/5.1 fluid.
Also you need Dot 5/5.1 seals in the brake system before you can use it as it might lead to shrinking seals.
that's my basic understanding, though.
I just chucked in Dot 3/4 stuff into the master cyclinder last friday replacing the front pads, all seems good to me.
I've abeen under the impression that you can use any brake fluid but you can't mix Dot 3/4 with Dot 5/5.1 fluid.
Also you need Dot 5/5.1 seals in the brake system before you can use it as it might lead to shrinking seals.
that's my basic understanding, though.
I just chucked in Dot 3/4 stuff into the master cyclinder last friday replacing the front pads, all seems good to me.
DOT 5 is silicone based.zagan wrote:humm.
I've abeen under the impression that you can use any brake fluid but you can't mix Dot 3/4 with Dot 5/5.1 fluid.
Also you need Dot 5/5.1 seals in the brake system before you can use it as it might lead to shrinking seals.
that's my basic understanding, though.
I just chucked in Dot 3/4 stuff into the master cyclinder last friday replacing the front pads, all seems good to me.
DOT 5.1 is glycol based and can be mixed freely with DOT4 and DOT3.
DOT5.1 isn't actually a seperate classification, it's used by some manufacturers for DOT4 fluids which have a higher boiling point than silicone fluid.
So some makers DOT4's can surpass some makes DOT5.1 fluids.
I just checked on the 95 Honda in the garage.chunks wrote: If you look at a vast majority of Japanese cars, they say Dot3 on the reservoir cap, whereas European cars say Dot4.
It says "DOT 3 OR DOT 4".
The brake booster and master cylinder appear to be made by NISSIN (not to be confused with Nissan).
Also checked a 99 Subaru RSK-B4
It says "DOT 3 ONLY".
The only brand on the brake booster and MC is "NF".
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