Hi all,
Have been following the Suzuki manual for reinstallation of the dizzy on my G13B Sierra. Didn't find its explanation all that clear, so I'll explain what I've done and please let me know if I'm wrong anywhere.
1. Piston 1 at TDC
2. Check camshaft lobes - inlet and exhaust valves on Cylinder 1 both closed, hence at beginning of power stroke
3. Insert distributor into case such that once the splines are engaged and the dizzy is fully in, the rotor is aligned with the Cylinder 1 contact
4. The dizzy flange is at its midpoint allowing equal +/- timing adjustment from this point.
The other thing is that the manual instructs you to fill the dizzy case with 30cc of engine oil prior to installing the dizzy. I did this, only to find the oil has leaked through the camshaft bearing into the head. Is there meant to be an O-ring that installs between the dizzy case and the camshaft bearing? I have a full gasket set which includes a number of O-rings (doing a rebuild) but there's nothing that fits..........
Cheers for your help,
Tim
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Dizzy installation - 2 questions
your description sounds fine of setting the dizzy , at the point of #1 being at top dead centre of the power stroke , you should have rocker play at 1 and 2 of the inlet valves , and 1 and 3 of the exhaust valves . the oil will leak to the head because thats how it supplies lubrication to the gears , i wouldnt worry too much about the oil in the dizzy housing , as soon as you get oil pressure there will be plenty up there to lube the gears.
Thanks suzimad 
I assumed that the oil leaking though to the head was okay as the bearing actually has a small notch to allow passage of oil, but I couldn't work out why the manual would tell you then to lubricate it. Unless its just to protect the dizzy gears for the 15-30 secs it might take for oil pressure to build on initial startup after rebuild.

I assumed that the oil leaking though to the head was okay as the bearing actually has a small notch to allow passage of oil, but I couldn't work out why the manual would tell you then to lubricate it. Unless its just to protect the dizzy gears for the 15-30 secs it might take for oil pressure to build on initial startup after rebuild.
Dead right. The oil should be feed down the top of the shaft, under the rotor button. Not sure but some have a little rubber bung that has to be pried out. The oil is to stop the mechanical advance from seizing, the shaft is actually in two pieces. When the dizzy is out of the car grab the gear end in one hand and the rotor end in the other and twist in opposite directions. There should be a small amount of free movement there. If not then your mechanical advance is working which will give all sorts of running issues.11_evl wrote:i think the oil is to lube the mechanical advance bits and pieces
Last edited by ScrawnC on Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
The manual states to put the oil in *before* installing the dizzy into the case, so it can only really lubricate the dizzy gear / camshaft gear.
I haven't touched the rotor etc (just removed dizzy complete, and only removed dizzy from case to achieve correct timing) so imagine rotor, mechanical advance, etc should be fine.
Will check the mechanical advance tomorrow thanks ScrawnC.
I haven't touched the rotor etc (just removed dizzy complete, and only removed dizzy from case to achieve correct timing) so imagine rotor, mechanical advance, etc should be fine.
Will check the mechanical advance tomorrow thanks ScrawnC.
You've obviously not had a dizzy completely apart before. Take one apart one day and you will see what I am talking about.suzimad wrote:the mechanical advance in the dizzy doesnt get lubricated from the head , nor should you pour 30ml of oil into the actual dizzy.
mechanical advance = springs and weights they dont need lubricating , their pivot points however my require less than 1ml of lubrication in total.
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