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hey just thinking
want to change my G16A vitara engine in my LWB sierra to something with a little bit more balls and possibly better fuel economy (im dreaming ) want to run 35's also
BEST OPTION FOR PRICE ALSO!!!
my thoughts
2L V6 Vitara motor
WRX motor
SR20DET
Corolla 4age 16v
Corolla 4age 20v
V6 Commodore engine
Swift GTI motor
i personally like the WRX motor my brother has a 04 model and compared to my zook it goes allot better but how hard is it to put in
what i want is a car that will push 35's up a hill dont die in its ass like the g16a with 31's and be resonable on fuel comsumption im getting 13-14L to the 100kms would be fine with me if she wasnt a dog to drive but it is
you won't be able to fit a wrx motor they are a boxer motor way to wide for a suzuki, don't go a commo v6 to heavy, vitara v6 probly woul be an easy fit maybe not enough horses. I would probly go either a 4agze but probly the sr20 would be the best
Consider the width of your chassis rails, the balance of the car and the strength of the rest of your drivetrain.
Most/all of those motors have been done before, with varying degrees of success and driveability afterwards. Also consider capacity regulations if it's staying regoed/engineered.
If it was me I'd look towards an injected 1.6, or a different vehicle altogether.
The vitara V6 is a wide motor as it is a DOHC design. It could be made to fit, but all that work and <100kw? Timing chain tensioners are a problem too, which pushes up the S/H price as people are always looking for replacement motors.
WRX? It won't fit. about 400mm too wide.
SR20 can fit but it's a major conversion job, will require you to move the transfer case back, and you'll need to be very patient to sort out the cooling issues etc. (they require a header tank as the head ends up higher than the radiator, and then the power will be able to break things pretty easily
4AGE - Really, you searched put down the 16V GE, 20V ge, but not the GZE? The GZE is a good option, but they're not cheap ($2K+) and will require a rare manual or a trimatic auto to work.
V6 commodore motor? You searched? Yes it's been done..... doesn't mean it's a good idea.
Swift GTI? Again, you searched? Thse are a bad candidate for conversion. They're all old, need a dodgy or expensive fix for the dizzy cap, and have poor characteristics, especially for a heavy sierra running big tyres.
Another options might be a 3RZ-FE toyota hilux motor (2.7) plus, you haven't mentioned the Baleno/vitara 1.6, a bolt in swap with a fair bit more power.
However, a G16A should pull a car on 31's fine. How healthy is the motor? How is it geared? Are you chewing up power with poor driveline angles etc? What you're describing above will eat a minimum of $3k, maybe much more, and it will leave you with a car that will be easy to break unless you spend more money on diffs etc.
Personally, I'd be looking at an efi 1.6 vitara/baleno motor. I've seen these pull much heavier/bigger cars than yours just fine. Adding more power than you need will just lead to more hassles and breakage.
Importantly though, make sure your gearing is correct and the motor you have now is in sound condition before you get too fired up and rip it out. It sounds to me like you have another problem.
PS if you add power, your fuel consumption will get worse. That's just how it works.
Of course, any of the conversions you list above will have to be engineer approved. As you already own a tall, modified car, you are going to attract more attention. Don't end up with an unregisterable car by doing a big conversion and not getting it certed.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
if u use a wrx motor you will probably have to mate it to a VW gearbox as there are plenty of adaptors around for this sort of stuff, it will cut down the cost of getting custom shiz made up.
iam running tyres which measure 33.7 inches and with s4 gears get about 300-350k's to a tank which isnt to bad. with any turbo application unless you keep it of boost the whole time this figure will be hard to beat.
well then what do i need to check to ensure my engine is correct im not a 100% she is the best health wise but i have had her serviced chocked was blocked cat changed leaking gaskets changed runs better but up hills she is a big dog cant keep her with out her sounding like she is going to die more than70-80kms even less and thats also looseing speed the whole way up also
so baleno 1.6 or vitara 1.6
or
2L 4cylinder vitara motor
Try_Me wrote:well then what do i need to check to ensure my engine is correct im not a 100% she is the best health wise but i have had her serviced chocked was blocked cat changed leaking gaskets changed runs better but up hills she is a big dog cant keep her with out her sounding like she is going to die more than70-80kms even less and thats also looseing speed the whole way up also
so baleno 1.6 or vitara 1.6
or
2L 4cylinder vitara motor
As steve said look into gearing. Atm I have 33s 4.8 and stock t/c 1600 with weber and It has good all round power for what it is a small 4x4 with big tyres. If I try I can chirp 33s in 2nd but being a law abiding citizen I wouldnt dare
When I FINALY get my 6.5 gears in Im thinking 35s.
Nik
NIK wrote:As steve said look into gearing. Atm I have 33s 4.8 and stock t/c 1600 with weber and It has good all round power for what it is a small 4x4 with big tyres. If I try I can chirp 33s in 2nd but being a law abiding citizen I wouldnt dare
When I FINALY get my 6.5 gears in Im thinking 35s.
Nik
i cant get 31's the rip in first with a roll back and a good dump of the clutch
33's would be nice you got pics of ur rig so i can have a look at??
I wish! I,ll try to get someone to upload them for me after I get them onto the computer, there must be something wrong with your 1600 as when I ran webered 1300 4.8 s1 and 33s I could accelerate uphill with a trailer load. Maybe 90 top speed at 4000rpm with only light throttle input.
Nik
NIK wrote:I wish! I,ll try to get someone to upload them for me after I get them onto the computer, there must be something wrong with your 1600 as when I ran webered 1300 4.8 s1 and 33s I could accelerate uphill with a trailer load. Maybe 90 top speed at 4000rpm with only light throttle input.
Nik
i wish
seriously up hills the biggest dog can bearly hold 80 and thats flat stick will look into it tho
this is the reason i want to change the engine but if it will run better might just fix it and leave it but will see what the mechanics have to say
same engine mounts etc?? i understand wiring and all but will the engine fit with out any probs??
www.lowrangeoffroad.com
Petroworks 1.6L Engine Adapter Kit
If you ware wanting to do the common swap of a 1.6L Sidekick/Tracker engine, this is the kit to go with. By far the best kit on the market. Petroworks had it together when they designed this. The full circle engine adaptor leaves no gaps keeping the dust and water out. It also provides strength and alignment that is not available in any other adapter on the market. Alignment bushings provided with the kit position the adapter plate and transmission perfectly. Design of the motor and new transmission mounts allows for an easy install without the need of a body lift. Most will not tell you that the body lift is needed. Kit comes with standard full circle rubber motor mounts for a vibration free drive.
Complete Adaptor Kit
Price: US$259.00
Engine adapter plate only
Price: US$125.00
Engine and transmission mounts only
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Try_me's car already has a 1.6 in it, so he won't need an adapter.
Yes, the 1.6 will go in with the same mounts and will fit without a problem. As you're LWB, there's lots of room in the back for an EFI fuel tank.
If you use a vitara 1.6 EFI, the crossover pipe sits above the motor and is the only real clearance problem, but as you've already got a BL, it should clear fine.
The best (and newest) versions of the EFI 1.6 is from a baleno, but it has a couple of more complex issues with fitting - the sump needs modification and there's a water pipe off the back of the motor that needs modification. The advantage is a new motor that makes a little bit more power, a much neater manifold design, and coil packs like a jimny instead of a dizzy.
Personally though, a carby 1.6 should pull fine. Definitely get yours looked at, it will be the cheapest option.
I wouldn't be doing rollbacks and dumping the clutch on road in a SPOA sierra... It'll murder unis unless you have an excellent track bar design.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
isnt the stock 1.3l 47kw while the 1.6l carby is 55kw? not alot of difference between the 2 for the amount of money u pay for engine and conversion. I think id rather pay a bit more and get the EFI as its about 70kw instead of 55. also its torque is 133nm instead of 105?
Gwagensteve wrote:Try_me's car already has a 1.6 in it, so he won't need an adapter.
Yes, the 1.6 will go in with the same mounts and will fit without a problem. As you're LWB, there's lots of room in the back for an EFI fuel tank.
If you use a vitara 1.6 EFI, the crossover pipe sits above the motor and is the only real clearance problem, but as you've already got a BL, it should clear fine.
The best (and newest) versions of the EFI 1.6 is from a baleno, but it has a couple of more complex issues with fitting - the sump needs modification and there's a water pipe off the back of the motor that needs modification. The advantage is a new motor that makes a little bit more power, a much neater manifold design, and coil packs like a jimny instead of a dizzy.
Personally though, a carby 1.6 should pull fine. Definitely get yours looked at, it will be the cheapest option.
I wouldn't be doing rollbacks and dumping the clutch on road in a SPOA sierra... It'll murder unis unless you have an excellent track bar design.
Steve.
i dont have a BL i have an after market fuel tank and its SPUA
was driving her yesterday and its really a dog up hill like a small nice size hill i cant hold 60 in 3rd flat stick flat roads she is ok but still a bit of a dog like i jump into my vitara and she feels like the biggest weapon on the road compared to the sierra but the vitara is efi
need to get it checked out the car already has cost me 600 betweeb services clutch cables gaskets cats etc if she is going to cost me more like around the same amount then i think its prob best to just change the engine buy a car smashed from the auctions rip everything out recoop some cash from the car and get her put in
My bad - I just checked the old thread/ebay post on it.
I still wouldn't be trying to break traction on road. It's really hard on the driveline- harder than most off road driving.
Try_me, your car is definitely, definitely down on power. It should move along quite well with that motor. From what you're describing, I have more power than you with my 660. One thing to watch though is the weight. It wouldn't be hard for that car to be very heavy - things like long range tanks and canopies add up the weight quick, which will hurt the performance a lot.
It might be worth getting it in a dyno - it's really the only way to show up a fault under load, which is what it sounds like you have. 60 in 3rd gear I get at 3200 rpm for your gearing, it should pull well at those revs.
Big D - I agree, but the longer stroke of the 1.6 does make them feel a lot more torquey than the 1.3. If I was starting a conversion from scratch I would definitely always go EFI, but try_me already has a carby and it should do the job fine.
Try_me - I don't really get what your saying. If you want to buy a wreck are you talking EFI or another carby? By the time you go through all this the conversion, either way, will still owe you quite a lot of money probably $3k or so- it would be a sh!t to do all that and find out that the problem with your original motor was a crimped fuel return hose, a split in the vacuum advance hose, dodgy plug leads or some other stupid little thing.
If you still had a 1.3 I think I'd agree with you to do a swap, but most people find 1.6's have adequate power.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
joshnz1 wrote:i have a ca18det in my lwb it wasnt that hard to put in and really cheap and easy to find parts for
Could you expand on this?
What was needed in terms of:
engine mounts?
cooling system?
electrical system?
Also, what gearbox you running (ca18 box I presume) and how did you couple it with the tcase? Is gbox/tcase length an issue? How much did you have to shorten/lengthen driveshafts?
Sorry for all the questions but I am very interested in this swap. A brief write up on how you did it would be awesome.
Sorry, not to be a dick but did you end up doing this conversion or not?
Just noticed this and was curious. Again, honest question, not trying to start anything.
joshnz1 in the for sale section wrote:okay so basically i just bought this off a bloke up north
with plans to put in my suzuki sierra.
came to the sad realisation that me being able to afford the rest of the conversion
so ITS FOR SALE!!! (exactly how i got it)
After 1500 (what i payed for it)
and its located northside brisbane
okay to quote from wez (who i bought it off):
Package comes with
# 1 CA18DE+T 99% ready to run, turbo injectors, turbo sump (return line), also comes with a fresh head gasket, water pump, timing belt, front and rear main seal.
It also comes with all the nesisaries to run, alternator, starter motor, power steering pump, coil packs and ignitor.
Motor also has loom and turbo ecu.
I have a T25G to go with the motor also manifold and standard dump pipe
# Motor No.2 is a CA18DET, runs fine but has slight bottom end knock,checked all bottom end bearings and is number 2 conrod bearings,just needs a new set,the crank is not damaged
also has one uncut loom and both turbo and non turbo ECUs to go with it
5 speed ca18det gearbox with no gearstick included aswell
like i said after what i payed for it or close to. (so o.n.o)
yes i did,i have more than one zook and had 3 ca motors,2 that i ended up not needing
with a long wheel base u swap the front and rear drive shafts around and move the transfercase back 140mm,u have to make all custom mounts for everything,used a vit radiator,u use the ca18 5 speed and the gearstick comes out the transfercase hole and u have to cut a new hole for the transfer case,if u can read a wiring diagram u can wire it up ur self if not an auto elec will do it for u
i used a r31 skyline fuel tank with a built in high pressure fuel pump in the tank allready,being a ute it had alot of room to fit it in
This info is from my car as this is what i have done. took some time to do but well worth it. A CA18 de has 110kw standed and the det have around 150kw
Trent
i'd say if i can manage to break 3 axles at once and have them splinter everywhere with a 1.6 carby , s4gears and 33's then you may want to spare a thought for the rest of your driveline aswell.
more power make bang quicker
Don't even look at the 2.0 v6 not worth a swap . The J20 would be the engine of choice from a grand vitara . If you have the 1.6 in the 2.0 will bolt to either the 1.6 gearbox or the 1.3 with teh standard 1.6 adaptor kit .
Chris
My 413 runs a CA18DE bolted to a nivara gearbox and t/case running calmini rockhoper gears , never wanted more power but only running 33's . Its a bugger as I have the turbo on teh shelf for it
) want to run 35's also
but how hard is it to put in
, maybe except for a diesel.
