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2" lifting blocks between diff and leafs
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
2" lifting blocks between diff and leafs
hey guys
i'm going to put blocks in between my leafs and diffs for a bit more lift but in the front the drag link rod and i think the knuckle arm is going to hit on the u-bolts. haven't put the blocks in yet but in know the ben hypolux has got them. it an 85 4runner so if anyones got any suggestions or solutions please comment.
cheers joel
i'm going to put blocks in between my leafs and diffs for a bit more lift but in the front the drag link rod and i think the knuckle arm is going to hit on the u-bolts. haven't put the blocks in yet but in know the ben hypolux has got them. it an 85 4runner so if anyones got any suggestions or solutions please comment.
cheers joel
DO NOT PUT BLOCKS IN THE FRONT OF YOUR HILUX
do 2" dropped hangers with 2" extended shackles, get on to dave camp he sells dropped hangers I think, or sit down and nut it out your self
heres mine
do 2" dropped hangers with 2" extended shackles, get on to dave camp he sells dropped hangers I think, or sit down and nut it out your self
heres mine
http://www.budscustoms.com.au
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Custom Parts & Fabrication!
Ph: 0417 708 598
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Ph: 0417 708 598
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
so if i drop my hangers and extened shackles, do if have to extend the torque rod? when i cut the hangers off, can i re-use them or is that to dodgey? also it was said about the 2 1/5" or more blocks in the rear that it would fix the hand brake problem. please explain, not sure you mean. at the moment the car has 2" spring lift, with the dropped hangers whats the likelyhood of slipping the tailshaft out of the assembly?
cheers joel
cheers joel
have a look at the rear leaves then have a look at the cable it sits above the leaves about 1/2" so if you get 2" lift blocks the cable wont refit again
and if youv`e allready got a lift and your getting blocks make sure there cut on a angle
and you will need spacers for the tailshaft
and if youv`e allready got a lift and your getting blocks make sure there cut on a angle
and you will need spacers for the tailshaft
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/ \IFS_&_NISSANS
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!/` `.
/ \IFS_&_NISSANS
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
STUMPY wrote:so if i drop my hangers and extened shackles, do if have to extend the torque rod? when i cut the hangers off, can i re-use them or is that to dodgey? also it was said about the 2 1/5" or more blocks in the rear that it would fix the hand brake problem. please explain, not sure you mean. at the moment the car has 2" spring lift, with the dropped hangers whats the likelyhood of slipping the tailshaft out of the assembly?
cheers joel
Currently the handbrake cable extends from the lever on the rear of the backing plate on the rear brakes, the cable is on top of the springs. When you put in lift blocks, the cable has to go somewhere, and that has to be under the springs, so you need to put in a minimum of 60mm or so of block so the cable wont bind/rub on the spring pack.
I would keep the torque rod, it is very easy to extend/make adjustable.
Built, not bought.
I have not run the torque rod, on my old (sold it the other day - yay) 4 runner for over 18 months, didn't notice a change in handling at all
you will not need to space your rear tail shaft, your front you will
do 2" drop hangers, 2" extended shackles, with your new hangers 1" forward, also redrill your spring perches for another 1 1/4" forward, so you will now have 2 1/4" axle forward, with your current springs
and with this hanger and shackle setup you would be able to use rears in front, but then you really need cross over steering
remember, once you do one thing, it could lead onto about 5 other items till it works
----- dropped hangers------
new torque rod (or remove it)
steering linkage shorten - or cross over to do it properly
shocks, will need to be longer
shock mounts
brake lines
----- rear -----
just block it, if the cable interferes extend the linkage
you will not need to space your rear tail shaft, your front you will
do 2" drop hangers, 2" extended shackles, with your new hangers 1" forward, also redrill your spring perches for another 1 1/4" forward, so you will now have 2 1/4" axle forward, with your current springs
and with this hanger and shackle setup you would be able to use rears in front, but then you really need cross over steering
remember, once you do one thing, it could lead onto about 5 other items till it works
----- dropped hangers------
new torque rod (or remove it)
steering linkage shorten - or cross over to do it properly
shocks, will need to be longer
shock mounts
brake lines
----- rear -----
just block it, if the cable interferes extend the linkage
http://www.budscustoms.com.au
Like us and follow on facebook for up to date information of what we are working on and great random specials!
Custom Parts & Fabrication!
Ph: 0417 708 598
Like us and follow on facebook for up to date information of what we are working on and great random specials!
Custom Parts & Fabrication!
Ph: 0417 708 598
Re: 2" lifting blocks between diff and leafs
STUMPY wrote:hey guys
i'm going to put blocks in between my leafs and diffs for a bit more lift but in the front the drag link rod and i think the knuckle arm is going to hit on the u-bolts. haven't put the blocks in yet but in know the ben hypolux has got them. it an 85 4runner so if anyones got any suggestions or solutions please comment.
cheers joel
Hey Joel, i'd be making sure that if you want too lift rig right tyres all the same size wouldn't go astray
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
Team Special would be my first options but there might be a few sticking points as shannon would say. i don't want to do a body lift because i doesn't give you extra gearbox clearance. Carter's cut and weld world tacked on some bars to stop the shackle inversions in the rear but he'll have to be quick to that welder, i'm on my way there now.
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