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80Series Transfer case oil leak

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX

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Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:52 pm
Location: Hobart

80Series Transfer case oil leak

Post by taslux »

A while back I gave my rear drive shaft a good whack and it was weeping oil from the diff seal and the transfer case seal. But now its getting worse. I've looked in the manual and it looks like the diff seal is a mechanics job, but not much info on the transfer case seal.

Does anyone know about replacing this seal? Is it easy or is it a major job?
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1995 80 Series GXL 1HD-FT, 4" Lift, 305/70 MTZ's
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Post by dow50r »

If the diff is, the transfer will be definately, as you need to take the housing off, then press out the shaft to get to the seal on a constant.
The diff is undo the centre nut to get to the seal...
Andrew
Confucious say...man who argue with idiot, worserer himself
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Post by 302 cruiser »

they both are a piece of piss with stuff all machanical knowledge its not rocket science
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:52 pm
Location: Hobart

Post by taslux »

302 cruiser wrote:they both are a piece of piss with stuff all machanical knowledge its not rocket science
The manual says you have to replace the collapsable spacer in the diff and torque a new one up to the correct tension. And looking at other info it looks like the whole transfer case has to be pulled apart to replace that one. Starting to look like they both could be a mechanic job.

Maybe there is an easier way?
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1995 80 Series GXL 1HD-FT, 4" Lift, 305/70 MTZ's
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Location: victoria, beechworth

Post by tuff4runner »

well im 18 and i have a little bit of mechanical knolage and i have done both seals in my 80 series its dam ezy!! u should b able to do it
IF YOU OVER TAKE ME I WILL FOLLOW YOU HOME AND S*#T IN YOUR SLIPPERS
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Post by dow50r »

If you have the tools available and a workshop manual, and a couple of mates on ouuters to help if you get stuck, it will all be learning experience.
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Post by Sic Lux »

dow50r wrote:If you have the tools available and a workshop manual, and a couple of mates on ouuters to help if you get stuck, it will all be learning experience.
So true to just change a pinion seal "by the book" you need to pull a diff out but with some know how it'a peice of piss and also the T/case is the eaisest one. The diff drop tail shaft have a good look at the nut so you see what i'm trying to say, As a rule of thumb to re-istall it after the seal has been changed is don't tighten the drive flange nut up no more than what it was when you pulled it off, using the same nut re-install the drive flange make sure it well seated put washer "If it has one" back on then the nut do it up by hand untill it seams tight then using a ratchet tighten nut untill it makes contact with the drive flange you'll se in the nut when you undone it where a small amount if the edge was bent into a grove in the part the thread is on well do not think "i'll get another turn out of it" just do it up to that point or maybe a bit more just enough so you can bend some of the nut edge into that grove again but no more than say 1/20th of a turn so that means verry little if at all, Also pays to use locktight if do end up doing it, if this seams a bit much i'd take it to a shop to have it done and not just the corner garage somewhere you know they know what there doin i have heard stories of people doing the up with a big rattle gun and this ends up costing them a new diff "not you the shop that did it". best of luck with it if you do end up taking it on all the t case and is drop the shaft off undo nut remove drive flange change seal clean the output shaft even some brake cleaner on a rag will do the trick clean splines inside same way even give it a good spary the put it back on with some loctite bulemaxx or greymaxx to help seal the spline from leeing oil passed then do it up to set torque or phukin tight with a breaked bar and all should be well. All the best with it and i hope this makes sense
plenty of parts on the bench
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